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Thread: Homemade primer reconsolidation

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

    Idz's Avatar
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    Question Homemade primer reconsolidation

    Commercial primers are constructed with the anvil sitting about 0.005" proud of the primer cup. When installed the anvil is pressed flush with the cup in "reconsolidation". This preloads and 'arms' the completely hardened primer compound to ensure firing.

    The videos and posts I've seen press the anvil into the wet compound flush with the top of the cup. Could this be a reason for reliability issues? Has anybody tested this in their homemade primers?

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy AlHunt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Idz View Post
    Commercial primers are constructed with the anvil sitting about 0.005" proud of the primer cup. When installed the anvil is pressed flush with the cup in "reconsolidation". This preloads and 'arms' the completely hardened primer compound to ensure firing.

    The videos and posts I've seen press the anvil into the wet compound flush with the top of the cup. Could this be a reason for reliability issues? Has anybody tested this in their homemade primers?
    The primers I made used acetone, which will evaporate pretty quickly. If I recall correctly, there was a time period between priming the cups and assembling the anvil. It's been a while but I think I set the anvil in the cup and seated the primers.

    I could see it being a problem though with a different solvent.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    If I read you correctly, you assemble the primer, let it dry, then drop in an anvil and seat it in a case. So the case presses in the anvil?

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy AlHunt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Idz View Post
    If I read you correctly, you assemble the primer, let it dry, then drop in an anvil and seat it in a case. So the case presses in the anvil?
    Thinking about it, I did it both ways. The acetone dries in minutes. I both seated the anvil flush with a punch and seated it by assembling it into a case. I probably made 20 or so altogether. It works quite well, although the mix I used is corrosive so it's a last resort.

    But I'm happy to have it on hand.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master almar's Avatar
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    I was really into reloading my primers awhile ago. One problem I had was the cup, it work hardens...so eventually the firing pin spring is not strong enough. If you anneal the cup, pressing in the anvil deforms it. Reloader 22 (sharpshooter reloader 22 .com) said that he was going to make dies to make cups...this was in December.
    Last edited by almar; 09-26-2021 at 09:21 AM.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy ofitg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Idz View Post
    Commercial primers are constructed with the anvil sitting about 0.005" proud of the primer cup. When installed the anvil is pressed flush with the cup in "reconsolidation". This preloads and 'arms' the completely hardened primer compound to ensure firing.

    The videos and posts I've seen press the anvil into the wet compound flush with the top of the cup. Could this be a reason for reliability issues? Has anybody tested this in their homemade primers?
    Interesting data -

    https://ballistictools.com/articles/...d-diameter.php

    If these numbers are accurate, some short primers might be several thousandths away from the forward walls of some deep primer pockets. Leaving the anvil a bit proud sounds like a good idea.
    "Commerce with all nations, alliance with none, should be our motto."

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  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
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    Except the Tula and Wolf primers are not made with the anvil proud. They are all with the anvil seated already. Seems to work OK.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Tula primers may be a bit shorter in height than American primers.
    The cups may also differ in height than ours leaving room for the priming compound between the cup and anvil.
    It's for sure that their primers are different from ours.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check