I have a chance to buy a RB 32rf but would like to shoot some center fire 32s. What does it take to convert this rifle and what cartridge do you all reccomend.
I have a chance to buy a RB 32rf but would like to shoot some center fire 32s. What does it take to convert this rifle and what cartridge do you all reccomend.
Since the firing pin is located in the rolling breech block, it's location in the block would have to be changed. This would involve welding up the original firing pin hole and drilling a hole in the appropriate location. However, as there were several models of the roller in many calibers, if one had access to lots of parts they might find an existing center fire breech block with firing pin that could be swapped with the original rim fire block.
DG
I did that with a Remington #4. Soldered in a plug to fill the block then re cut a new hole for the pin. Made a pin to fit. Relined the barrel so it has normal dimensions and chambered it for 32 H&R mag, which is only ever loaded with black powder. I don't recommend that, the case is too long and it's hard to load but it's the reamer I had. I should have done it in 32 S&W short. That would be safe to fire factory ammo in, and would load easier. And it's about the right power level for the takedown model rifle. I don't think they ever made the #4 in centerfire but I may be wrong there. The 32 caliber barrel it comes with is made for outside lubricated bullets so it's too big for normal ones. You'd have to come up with a heeled mould to make ammo for it.
I've had John Taylor convert two #2 breech blocks to centerfire, and just sent him an extra #4 block for the same treatment. Any good smith can do it, but I'd stick with someone who knows rolling blocks.
I believe Midway had a how-to on the conversion in their library. This was some years back that i viewed it so it may not still be available. This was a conversion for 32-20WCF. I have one that needs the same treatment but never gotten to it.
Bill
watch the Midway how-to in their library. I used that Info to convert a #44 in 25RF to a 25 CF wildcat (shortened and turned).
BD
Midways how-to video is a waste of time for a #4. Unless you have a decent vertical mill, send to John Taylor. He's a rolling block fan as well as being a fine machinist.
Cognitive Dissident
Or just buy Jack Harrison's reloadable 32 rimfire cases and bullets. Load 'em up and go have fun. Eazy Peazy!
He'd have to go buy Jack's .32 Colt CF cases anyway, unless he commits the sin of reaming it out to .32 S&W.
(Guess we should 'splain that the rifle is chambered for a heeled bullet, so the case is smaller than the common .32 S&W. The good news is that the .32 Long Colt Centerfire is the exact same dimensions as the .32 Rimfire, so no rechambering is necessary. Jack sizes down .32 S&W cases, and sells them either as centerfire or with an offset hole drilled for a 6mm acorn cap as primer. Search 299153 on Gunbroker and one of his listings will come up. 299153 is the Lyman mould number for the proper bullet for the Colt cartridge.)
Last edited by uscra112; 09-22-2021 at 05:56 PM.
Cognitive Dissident
Jack now sells reloadable rimfire cases as well as the 32 Colts. I got a few a while back. They are very nicely made.
.
I used the K.I.S.S. method of converting my .32RF Remington #4 RB to .32CF (.32 Short Colt, actually)
I closed the breech on an empty chamber and dropped a black Sharpie down bore to mark the breech face for the CF pin hole.
I removed & stripped the breechblock, then drilled a 1/16" hole into the FP channel at the mark with a sacrificial drill bit (more on that, later)
I ground the RF tip off the firing pin, leaving a flat surface, replaced the FP into the breech block, then marked the flat with the same drill bit, ran into the new CF pin hole from the breech face.
I again removed the FP from the breech block, then deepened the hole 1/8" in the flat face for a new FP tip.
I ground the shank of the sacrificial 1/16" drill bit to a length that bottomed in the new hole in the FP, and allowed FP protrusion when it was re-installed in the breech block.
(It took a few fit/tries to reduce the length for the proper protrusion)
I epoxied the new CF pin tip into the flat/drilled face of the FP body, but it could also be soldered in if desired.
Done....................
There was no rechambering needed because (unlike the .32 Long Colt & the .32 S&W) the .32 Short Colt readily fit into the .32 RF chamber.
Yes, the BB ended up having two holes in the breech face - so what ?
( It could be readily converted back to RF via installing a RF firing pin from vendors the likes of Numrich)
.
Last edited by pietro; 09-22-2021 at 07:39 PM.
Now I lay me down to sleep
A gun beside me is what I keep
If I awake, and you're inside
The coroner's van is your next ride
Is any boys' rifle firing pin diameter big enough to do that? Laying it out in AutoCAD it takes a minimum pin body of ~ .425" diameter to do it. Lots bigger than the pin in my #4.
Cognitive Dissident
The old hole has to be filled in completely. I clean up the inside where the firing pin rides and turn a piece of metal for a close fit then solder it in. Marking the new location with a transfer punch of the proper size. Then in the center of the piece of steel that was soldered in drill in the center with a centering drill just enough to use the guide for lining up in the mill drill.
Now you can drill part way then reverse the block and using a 1/16" carbide end mill drill the face of the breach block in about 1/8" deep. An end mill is used because the face is at an angle. I usually open the hole up to .081" and drill through to the other end. Now turn the block over again and drill for the firing pin body ( on the #4 I use 3/16" drill, it's best to use a piloted drill) If the firing pin has much of an angle you will want to move the hole a bit or it will strike the primer a bit low.
If you look close at the picture you will see a piece of metal in the bottom of the #4 breach block to keep it from collapsing from the vice pressure. Make a new firing pin from something tough, I use piano wire for most. Drill a hole in the side of the block for a retainer screw and cut the new firing pin for it.
Last edited by John Taylor; 09-24-2021 at 12:41 PM.
Getting the angle right is not trivial. It's something John knows how to do.
Cognitive Dissident
Except that it cannot work for #4 RB because the existing firing pin body is much too small. See my post #13.
The firing pin centerline has to move ~.173" from the .32 rimfire position to the centefire position. This is a layout of it.
Last edited by uscra112; 09-23-2021 at 07:11 AM.
Cognitive Dissident
Guess so.
Cognitive Dissident
I drilled and taped the old firing pin hole, placed a screw with red loctite into the hole, nex day milled the breach block flat finishing with a file. then drilled for the located new firing pin (using a 1/4 inch long centering punch as mine was 25 cal to locate) then drilled new firing pin hole. used drill bit shank cut off of drill placing it into new firing pin shank that I milled to line up with new CF hole and Locktit'ed cut off drill bit into shank. Worked for me. Screw did not come loose even after using a mill on it.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |