Mauser bolt question

[DSW]

I have a .22-250 that was built on a 1909 Argentine Mauser action. For scope / safety clearance the gunsmith installed a Mark II safety. I want to disassemble the bolt so I can get my die set for correct brass shoulder bump. Can someone please tell me how to disassemble / reassemble the bolt? Obviously, the safety cannot be put into the normal verticle position as with a military mauser due to the Mark II safety.

Thanks you

[Mk42gunner]

Its been a while since I took apart a Mauser bolt with a Mark II safety. IIRC I used a nickel to hold back the cocking piece.

I do know a vise is very helpful when wrestling with Mauser bolts and non standard safeties.

Robert

[DSW]

Its been a while since I took apart a Mauser bolt with a Mark II safety. IIRC I used a nickel to hold back the cocking piece.

I do know a vise is very helpful when wrestling with Mauser bolts and non standard safeties.

Robert

Hi Robert,
I can't get to the slot on the left hand side to insert the nickel without pulling it back via a slot on the right side which takes an enormous amount of strength which is more than I have LOL

[Der Gebirgsjager]

You do have the bolt out of the receiver? So, on the bottom of the cocking piece is a lug that catches on the sear when you push the bolt forward and cocks it. Hook the sharp part of the lug over a sharp corner, like the edge of a table or workbench, and push the body of the bolt downward. The gap will open. Have the nickel close by....

Mark II safeties are held into the bolt shroud by friction, usually (depending on the vintage) by a couple of nylon or rubber grommets seated in grooves in the shaft. It is often not much of a problem to pull them out of the shroud if they're in a slightly off of safe position--in other words with the lever partially raised. A good practice to avoid if not necessary, as often they won't fit in as tightly when reassembled.

DG

[405grain]

Unless you feel confident in your gunsmithing skills I'd recommend against doing this, but here's what I do with Mark II safeties: The Mark II is a "two position" safety (as opposed to the Mauser flag safety which is three position) On a three position safety there are three options. 1. fire position 2. Safe with bolt unlocked 3. safe with bolt locked. The third position; safe with the bolt locked, makes sense on a military bolt action, but not so much on a sporting rifle. The thinking is that a soldier can carry their rifle with a cartridge in the chamber and the safety on, without fear of snagging the bolt handle on something and pulling the action open.

On a sporting rifle I much prefer the option of opening the bolt with the safety on. For this reason I grind off the portion of the shank that locks the bolt closed on Mark II and Timney safeties. With this alteration I can cock the action on an empty chamber, place the safety on, then remove the bolt and unscrew the bolt shroud to remove the firing pin, etc. It is much handier than having only the options of safety on/bolt locked or fire. Also, I discard that piece of plastic from Mark II safeties and replace them with a spring (like on a Timney safety). This makes for a smoother and better operation of the safety.
Again, if you are not completely sure of your gunsmithing skills, and aren't fully aware of the operations and mechanics of Mauser actions, then maybe you shouldn't attempt such an operation. The safety MUST move the cocking piece back off the sear and hold it there when the rifle is on safe or it could create a dangerous situation. Just as a general rule of thumb with any firearm "never trust a safety", and follow all safe firearms handling rules.

[DSW]

You do have the bolt out of the receiver? So, on the bottom of the cocking piece is a lug that catches on the sear when you push the bolt forward and cocks it. Hook the sharp part of the lug over a sharp corner, like the edge of a table or workbench, and push the body of the bolt downward. The gap will open. Have the nickel close by....

Mark II safeties are held into the bolt shroud by friction, usually (depending on the vintage) by a couple of nylon or rubber grommets seated in grooves in the shaft. It is often not much of a problem to pull them out of the shroud if they're in a slightly off of safe position--in other words with the lever partially raised. A good practice to avoid if not necessary, as often they won't fit in as tightly when reassembled.

DG

Thanks you DG