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Thread: Heating locktighted screws ruin blueing?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy nelsonted1's Avatar
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    Heating locktighted screws ruin blueing?

    I have a rifle with scope mount filler screws that seem locktighted. Two came loose two didn't.
    Can the screws be heated- should they be heated- to get loose? Will heat ruin blueing? Will a high heat heat gun, the paint stripping kind, get warm enough?

    Thank You

    Ted

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Wheelguns 1961's Avatar
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    I have used many ways to heat the screws to get them out, and none have affected the blueing. The most efficient way,I have found, is to use a soldering iron. You can put the tip right on the screw. Only heat until the screw loosens. A heat gun will get it hot enough, but you are also heating anything that is near the screw. If you use care this will work. I have also used a plain hair dryer. This gets it hot enough, but takes a little longer. Since 2 of your screws have already come out, you should not need much.
    Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master 358429's Avatar
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    I'll back him up, the soldering gun works. If it still does not loosen you can tap the screw driver with a hammer and try slight tightening, when it's hot, then loosening, should crack the threads loose.

    Just don't tighten it until it loosens then back it off a quarter turn

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Boolit Man
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    Weller 250 Watt soldering iron. Clean and tin the tip of the iron before heating the screw head..


    The slide hammer and the impact driver work well, but you gotta be careful or you will break the screw off. Soldering iron is safer.

    Last edited by Stockcarver; 09-18-2021 at 12:49 PM.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


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    Did you try putting Kroil on them and letting them soak overnight?

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


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    Any body EVER have success with Kroil overcoming Loc-Tite? No controversy intended, but as a playground installer, Loc-Tite was used as a thread sealer for stainless hardware screwed into cast aluminum parts.
    Micah 6:8
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master Wheelguns 1961's Avatar
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    I have tried kroil with no joy.
    Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!

  8. #8
    Boolit Master 444ttd's Avatar
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    just as wheelguns says, a soldering iron.

    when its time to replace them, use never-seize. i do that with my rifles (sights, scope bases and mounts). but if you just have it loctited use the purple loctite.
    Ad Reipublicae his Civitatum Foederatarum Americae, ego sum fortis et libero. Ego autem non exieris ad impios communistarum socialismi. Ora imagines in vestri demented mentem, quod vos mos have misericordia, quia non.

    To the Republic of these United States of America, I am strong and free. I will never surrender to godless communist socialism. Pray to images in your demented mind, that you will have mercy, because i will not.

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  9. #9
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by William Yanda View Post
    Any body EVER have success with Kroil overcoming Loc-Tite? No controversy intended, but as a playground installer, Loc-Tite was used as a thread sealer for stainless hardware screwed into cast aluminum parts.
    He is not sure that Loctite was used, only guessing!

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    If you go with the heat gun, it does heat everything. Hit just the screws with a shot of WD-40 or PB Blaster when hot and they will shrink slightly.

  11. #11
    Boolit Mold
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    I’m in the soldering iron group as well. Like others said, it only heats the screw. I’ve had some release really quick others took some time. It depends on how much loc-tite was used.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    I put the Allen wrench/screwdriver bit in the screw, apply pressure and apply heat (soldering iron, fine tipped propane torch) to the driver, if it is thread locking compound the heat through the driver should break the bond.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Methylated spirits.
    Alcohol seems to kill Loctite.
    Seems to wreck things I’ve stuck together with Loctite.
    Or super glue.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by William Yanda View Post
    Any body EVER have success with Kroil overcoming Loc-Tite? No controversy intended, but as a playground installer, Loc-Tite was used as a thread sealer for stainless hardware screwed into cast aluminum parts.
    In my experience, you'll never get SS fasteners out of threaded aluminum in a million years without a plasma cutter...Loctite or no Loctite.

    Soldering iron seems to work well for Loctited fasteners. I use a big copper one that you "charge up" with a propane torch. Get it rippin hot and then apply to the screw head. The copper is so conductive that it dumps heat into the fastener fast, which is what you want, I believe. With an electric soldering gun, you don't have that huge heat sink/thermal mass, so it's like trying to weld with a Bic lighter.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    If they have been glued in with anything you should be able to see some residue on the screws that came out. If they look clean I'd soak them in Kroil for a while.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master 444ttd's Avatar
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    i was taking the rear sight off of my 1898 spr armory. the screws wouldn't turn, so i got a drop or two of kroil on them. waited about 20 minutes and they still wouldn't turn. i put a drop or two of kroil on them and i left. the next day, the screws were tight, so a drop or two of kroil and i left. it took me 6 or 7 days and 12-14 drops of kroil till the screws came out(it was like i finger tighten them).


    didn't the old guys use fingernail polish? i seem to remember they did?
    Ad Reipublicae his Civitatum Foederatarum Americae, ego sum fortis et libero. Ego autem non exieris ad impios communistarum socialismi. Ora imagines in vestri demented mentem, quod vos mos have misericordia, quia non.

    To the Republic of these United States of America, I am strong and free. I will never surrender to godless communist socialism. Pray to images in your demented mind, that you will have mercy, because i will not.

    MOLON LABE

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    JSnover is correct. The screws that are already out should give you a clue as to why the others are stuck and what to do.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master Rapier's Avatar
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    Decades ago I bought a propane pencil torch, it throws a fine pin point blue flame, heats just the head of a 6-48 screw and breaks them loose real nice, including with red locktite. Makes a great sight removal tool in my shop. I would buy another one if I could find one like it.
    “There is a remedy for all things, save death.“
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  19. #19
    Boolit Master 358429's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rapier View Post
    Decades ago I bought a propane pencil torch, it throws a fine pin point blue flame, heats just the head of a 6-48 screw and breaks them loose real nice, including with red locktite. Makes a great sight removal tool in my shop. I would buy another one if I could find one like it.
    You can find one if you look in the section with electronics repairs. They are used to heat shrink tubing for butt connectors and light soldering.

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rapier View Post
    Decades ago I bought a propane pencil torch, it throws a fine pin point blue flame, heats just the head of a 6-48 screw and breaks them loose real nice, including with red locktite. Makes a great sight removal tool in my shop. I would buy another one if I could find one like it.
    Harbor Freight has workable butane pen torches for not much.

    Lock-Tite comes in several formulas, from not real hard to near concrete, so the required heat to soften them varies quite a bit but when heated they ALL soften eventually.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check