Recoil difference between the .40 S&W and 9mm in Glock mid-sized pistols.

[Idaho45guy]

To say, as you have that a 40 year old with rhomatoid arthritus in his hands, shouler or elbow is a man boy because he prefers less recoil in his handgun is just stupid. If you didn't mean to say that then amend your post because you are not likely a stupid person.

Take Care

Bob

Agreed. I'm young with no issues, but I see the struggle my elderly parents are having in their 70's and I can empathize that choosing the 9mm over the .40 S&W due to reduced recoil makes complete sense. For me, at this stage in my life, it does not.

[Idaho45guy]

In this video, I fired 4 different pistols in 9mm, .40 S&W, and 10mm. The fastest was the P365 at 2.80 seconds and had a group of 2 3/4".

The slowest was the G29 10mm at 2.93 seconds with a smaller group of 2 1/8".

In the real world of defensive shooting, what difference is there between .13 second of getting 5 shots on target? In professional match shooting, I guess it makes a difference, but for the other 99% of shooters, I see no reason to poo poo the .40 S&W or 10mm in regards to "split times".

[Lloyd Smale]

In the real world of defensive shooting, what difference is there between .13 second of getting 5 shots on target?

absolutely NONE! Unless your name is walter middy

[robertbank]

Agreed. I'm young with no issues, but I see the struggle my elderly parents are having in their 70's and I can empathize that choosing the 9mm over the .40 S&W due to reduced recoil makes complete sense. For me, at this stage in my life, it does not.

For the win. Truth is just about any cartridge you choose will cut carboard and paper. Beyond that task things get a bit cloudy. Much often depends where you live. Up here my choices revolve around the sport I am shooting, where I am living and Wilderness Carry.

I have a 226 for home security, a GP-100 for Wilderness Carry and 30 other handguns for either playing games or shooting cans and such.

Take Care

Bpb

[robertbank]

Udaho45guy nice shooting. Your average split times run .56 being the best and .586 the slowest. The only reference I have relate to double taps mostly with 9MM guns. Most of our shooters enjoy .22 splits with two rounds into an 8 inch circle out to 10 or shorter For the best shooters that would be considered slow. So for playing the games, where speed and accuracy is everything recoil matters.

If we take a match with twelve stages requiring 18 rounds per stage, and that would be high to be fair, you would have 108 double taps. If we assume you and a mid level shooter hit the 8" circle with all your shots and your running speed and draw times are identical you lose the match by 36.72 seconds or put another way you have to run or draw at least 38 seconds faster over the match to beat joe averages time.

I have no idea how that would relate to real world defensive shooting. At seven yards if the BG intends to shoot me and his gun is out and mine is in the holster I am going to likely die. If both of our guns are out then it comes down to who shoots first and second the fastest with accuracy.. There is a reason why double taps are taught in the real world. More to the point you continue to shoot until the threat is over. One shot stoppages are not 100% ensured.

In my real world I am only really concerned about encounters with animals in the wild. Even there the chances of such an encounter are extremely rare. I do know that such an attack would be from distances inside of 10 yards and I most likely with end up getting bit if I only had my handgun to rely on. My 12 gauge, if I am carrying it, would likely be my only chance to get a round off quick enough. For the record my best times drawing a GP-100 from a holster runs 1.50 seconds wearing a jacket or vest over the holster. From the open, with no garment concealing the holster the time of draw reduces to 1.2 seconds. Those times are based upon situations when I know the timer is going to go off and using factory loaded 38spl ammunition. To those times add .22 seconds for the second shot. My double taps using 200 gr .357 or 10MM rounds are double that recorded using the 38 Spl due to recoil but the hits are the same. In the real world they are going to be slower due to a lengthening of my reaction to the threat. Now how far do you think a motivated bruin can go in those time frames (1,5 + .44 = 1.84 seconds) ? In the real world I get bit most of the time if I am relying on my handgun. In the real world bear spray is likely more effective. Based solely on power my 12 gauge is likely my best bet followed by either my .357 or 10MM. I can't draw and fire a Ruger Redhawk or A S&W 4" 629 nearly as fast as the lighter GP-100, nor can I shoot the 44 magnum as accurately.

All the above reflects is my experiences. The 9MM vs .40 debate has been beaten to death every since the 40 cal came out. If you can get back on target equally fast with both guns shoot the .40 it makes .046" bigger holes and my friend Al has told me the wounds from a 40 cal are significantly larger. For me, I have no real use for the .40 other than I can use 40 brass in my GP-100 10MM, saving my more expensive and harder to find 10MM brass for shorter practice sessions and my real world need. Shooting full power .357mag and 10MM rounds gets old real quick hence my practice sessions usually involve lightly loaded 38spl and 40 cal cartridges.

Take Care

Bob
ps The only time I needed a gun for social work involved a Model 10 in 38 S&W and it did it's job with nary a round fired due to a wise decision by a Bank robber. That's my real world.