Close the 38 mould and look to see of you can see light between the blocks, if you do it means either the alignments are out too far or you habe something on the mould face. If you hold the blocks together there should be very little play when you try to rob them together if there is the the pins may be set too deep and need to be tapped out a little so they seat into the pin races.
Steve,
Life Member NRA
Colorado Rifle Club member
Rocky Mtn Gun Owners member
NAGR member
One thing you need is a thermometer.
I find that some molds I run hotter and some I run cooler. I have a piece of paper that I put in my box of molds that I make notes on so I can pick up the mold and know that I should heat up the pot to 715 and cast fast... Or 650 and cast slow, etc.
WWG1WGA
A little addition to what has already been shared:
I'm shooting an NOE 126gr GC PC out of a 6.5 Grendel at 2300fps. COWW water dropped at the last coat of PC (2 coats - shake and bake) shot significantly worse than AC. 3"+ groups vs just over 1" at 100 yards. Replicated it 4 times before "annealing" the rest of my water quenched boolits. Hard is not always better- even at rifle velocities.
Are your molds Lee 6 cavity molds? If so holding the sprue handle when casting will open the mold slightly - more at the outside of the mold than close to the hinge. Try casting consciously keeping your hands off the sprue handle and see if it works better.
Wayne the Shrink
There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |