Fed Up With Fine Threads on RCBS Lube Sizer

[alamogunr]

I finally got tired of unscrewing the cap nut to add lube to the reservoir. Went to a couple of pawn shops but couldn't find an 1 3/8 open end wrench. Apparently the big farmers in this area periodically go in an buy every wrench/socket in the store.

I got on Ebay and found what I hope will solve my problem. A 1-3/8" Thin Pump Open End Wrench Waterpump Wrench. It is used and looks it but should do what I want.

I'm sure I could get the cap off and back on if I heated it but I didn't want to do that. Bullet lube is thick and sticky and gets into everything.

[Land Owner]

I have a large Crescent Wrench that I use on the nut of my LAMII. A couple of turns and it's tight or loose. I also use the wrench for loosening and tightening lock rings on dies, holding nuts while tightening bolts on implements for the tractor, boat trailer repair, etc., so it is not reserved for reloading, but its more frequent use is in the reloading room. Also use "Mechanic's gloves" when hand loosening or tightening that nut and you will do yourself a favor in both grip and reduction in blistering of fingers.

[winelover]

I use one of the double end sockets from a Plumbing/Shower valve set. Available at any hardware or Amazon. Amazon's Choice is less than $20.................they are also nice to have around the house for DYI plumbing projects.

Winelover

[alamogunr]

I know what both of you are saying but the Crescent Wrench is too big to work when the lube sizer is mounted on the bench(I know! I should clean up).

Other solutions, the formed sheet metal sockets for instance are usually only available as sets. I've gotten to an age that I know people to call when something requires plumbing or electrical knowledge beyond me.

As Land Owner said, it doesn't take much to break the nut loose, just a little too hard to keep turning by finger. If I have to shorten the wrench, a hacksaw and file won't cause any regrets.

[rbuck351]

I have an old sheet metal wrench from a Texan shotgun loader that has several sizes in one wrench that works well.

[Paper Puncher]

For the reloading bench most of the time you don't really need a standard wrench especially in the large sizes. A simple sheet metal wrench works just fine. I make them out of a scrap of 1/8 stock. Depending on tools available is how fancy you want to get. With a hacksaw you can just cut a notch and a series of small holes drilled along the base lets you snap out the inside piece. Clean it up with a file or grinder and your good to go.

[OS OK]

This is the nut I have trouble with...fine threads and all. My hands are too big to get in there and start it without having a cross-thread. If that ever happens it will really be a bugger to start.



I try to keep all that thick lube from getting into the threads and that makes it easier to start the nuts.

[uscra112]

Starting the die retaining nut is a whole lot easier if you lay a fender washer on it and gently lower the ram into contact. This keeps it square so it's harder to get it cross-threaded. Washer O.D. has to be sized a wee bit smaller than the nut. From there I use a crescent wrench.

[Wayne Smith]

When Sears was local I picked up an appropriate sized single short handled box wrench for it. Still use it.

[Mk42gunner]

I have an older LAM and I'm still trying to figure out just where the 1 3/8" wrench is used???

My piston comes out with the same ¼" socket that feeds pressure to the reservoir. No cover, but it did ccome from ebay about twenty years ago.

Robert

[Alan in Vermont]

Starting the die retaining nut is a whole lot easier if you lay a fender washer on it and gently lower the ram into contact. This keeps it square so it's harder to get it cross-threaded. Washer O.D. has to be sized a wee bit smaller than the nut. From there I use a crescent wrench.

+1, that's how I did it when I was in my "pre-Star" days! A quarter US coin works if no washer is available.

[alamogunr]

KeithB on another casting forum sells special wrenches for die retention nuts. I've got one for a Lyman 450 and I'm getting ready to order one for the LAM2. Really makes it easier to start and seat the nut.

He used to be here as ThePerfessor(sp?)

For those that don't know about him, he has a lot of stuff for sizing, etc.

https://www.artfulbullet.com/index.p...for-sale.3302/

[Dom]

The nut on my RCBS lube sizer always starts easily by first applying some WD-40 to the threads. This will allow the nut to start straight ,& easily turns most of the way down with just finger pressure. The light oil cuts thru the thick lube . Works every time for me. Only need a wrench for that last little bit of snugging the nut.

[alamogunr]

The nut on my RCBS lube sizer always starts easily by first applying some WD-40 to the threads. This will allow the nut to start straight ,& easily turns most of the way down with just finger pressure. The light oil cuts thru the thick lube . Works every time for me. Only need a wrench for that last little bit of snugging the nut.

I only use WD-40 on my toilet auger after using. Keeps it from rusting.

[uscra112]

The nut on my RCBS lube sizer always starts easily by first applying some WD-40 to the threads. This will allow the nut to start straight ,& easily turns most of the way down with just finger pressure. The light oil cuts thru the thick lube . Works every time for me. Only need a wrench for that last little bit of snugging the nut.

WD-40 is a solvent, not an oil, which is why the trick works.

[imashooter2]

KeithB on another casting forum sells special wrenches for die retention nuts. I've got one for a Lyman 450 and I'm getting ready to order one for the LAM2. Really makes it easier to start and seat the nut.

He used to be here as ThePerfessor(sp?)

For those that don't know about him, he has a lot of stuff for sizing, etc.

https://www.artfulbullet.com/index.p...for-sale.3302/

I have one of them I picked up when he was a vendor/sponsor here. I could certainly live without it, but what a joy to have the tool for the job.

[Green Frog]

I always start the retainer nut by turning it in backwards until I feel the threads click in… it won’t cross thread that way. I use this trick for stating just about all fine thread nuts.

Froggie

[rbuck351]

Put the nut on the die before installing them, it keeps the nut properly aligned. I use a nickle on top of the nut as well and start the die/nut with the ram and a top punch. I also put some kind of light oil on the threads to loosen the lube on the threads.

[15meter]

Going back to the OP, I use a 16" Proto "open end adjustable wrench"(old shop teacher coming out, Cresent is a trade name) that works to break it loose and to snug it up. Still have enough hand strength to thread it in and out, but my time of having to have a mechanical advantage is coming way too fast.

The itty-bitty 10" does the sizer die.

The turn backwards to get down on the threads helps.

[15meter]

I have an older LAM and I'm still trying to figure out just where the 1 3/8" wrench is used???

My piston comes out with the same ¼" socket that feeds pressure to the reservoir. No cover, but it did ccome from ebay about twenty years ago.

Robert

On the LAM II, it's the nut on the lube reservoir. Need a wrench to break it loose and tighten it up.