200gr 38 Special Super Police (can you help me get the mold to release)

[Stopsign32v]

I think I might be looking for another set of 358430 molds.

[Outpost75]

I think I might be looking for another set of 358430 molds.

I would recommend instead the NOE clone of the British Mk1 Service bullet. You can order in various diameters to fit any gun.

[Stopsign32v]

I would recommend instead the NOE clone of the British Mk1 Service bullet. You can order in various diameters to fit any gun.

Which one is that? I believe the NOE clone (close) of this boolit is currently out of stock sadly.

[Outpost75]

had 12 4-cavity aluminum .363-204 RN in stock when my neighor ordered his yesterday.
About $100 each.

[Stopsign32v]

This won’t be that much of a used boolit. I’m just going to wait for another nice example of the 358430. Heck maybe someone on here has one to sell

[muskeg13]

The handles on the right appear they may have been slightly modified as explained by Chill Wills above. The interior edges of the tangs are not exactly straight, parallel, with the outside edges. Unless you intend to have dedicated handles mated with a particular mould block, you may wish to modify the handles on the left so you can use any of your handles with any of your moulds without having to worry about it in the future.

[Stopsign32v]

The handles on the right appear they may have been slightly modified as explained by Chill Wills above. The interior edges of the tangs are not exactly straight, parallel, with the outside edges. Unless you intend to have dedicated handles mated with a particular mould block, you may wish to modify the handles on the left so you can use any of your handles with any of your moulds without having to worry about it in the future.

They are double cavity handles and work great on my DC 311299 mold

[jsizemore]

Is there a good read up on how to clean these old molds?

https://www.hensleygibbs.com/casting/cleaning.htm

This is part of a larger sticky about H&G molds in the classics and stickies page. My main tools to clean lead are a brass brush with solid brass bristles, a left over sprue that acts like a hand held eraser and popsicle sticks sharpened to whatever shape I need. The mold heated to casting temp helps also.

When I get a mold I completely disassemble it (except for the alignment pins) detail clean it and lube with copper bearing anti-sieze especially the the screws. Anti-sieze on the screws improves my ability to remove them in the future. If there is any stoning or lapping to be done, now is the time like scarring of the mold block tops from the sprue plate which wasn't lubed and check alignment pins for fit. If the top edge of the mold blocks haven't had the edge beveled I do that all the way around no more than a couple thousandths of an inch. The top inner edges by the mold cavity base/s need to be broke just a little to help the bullet base fill out completely. The vent lines for the mold block faces are only a couple thousandths deep and that's all that's needed. DON'T use a file. I use a fine DMT diamond knife sharpening stone but any fine polishing stone will work. 2 or 3 passes with a light touch is all that's necessary at a 45 degree angle. Breaking the outer edges keeps the sprue plate from dragging if it's too loose. LUBE THE TOP OF THE MOLD BLOCKS AND BOTTOM OF THE SPRUE PLATE. I use synthetic 2 cycle oil on a Q-tip when the mold is up to temp. Only takes a drop or 2.

Treated right, those molds will last your lifetime and beyond. I can only hope that the next person that gets one of my molds thinks the same way.

[bruce381]

if everything lines up right sometimes I lightly lap the cavities with a bullet covered in a light grit lapping compound. Drill a hole in bass screw in a brass screw an few turns with screwdriver will get out whatever is hanging them up works for me.