All right wrench turners - I need help

[megasupermagnum]

Pull the power head if you got some hours on the engine and replace the head gasket while you are in there won't cost anymore and a new water pump too.

That's way too much work for nothing. There's no reason to replace a head gasket on a 2006, and you can change the water impeller at any time, the powerhead has nothing to do with it. It's jut a little screw. He can get it with an impact.

[.429&H110]

Heat gun.
Maybe there's locktite in it.
Don't set it on fire.

[Minerat]

Try rotating the prop as you shift into reverse to get it to go. Maybe if the screw goes into an aluminum or pot metal shaft there is corrosion in the fitting due to different metals if they did not use a SS screw.

[popper]

No, do not use a hammer impact style screwdriver. You will break the bracket right off

Appears to have a flat washer under it. Probably a glass filled plastic so it will take some heat but it has a bushing for the bracket. I'd try the soldering iron. Hot, ice, hot, ice then try. If red loctite, heat will do it - rust - hot cold cycles. Check the backside with a mirror to make sure it's not staked. Gear control is on the other side of the lever/rod so you have a bigger problem.
They usually have a reverse throttle stop and anti kickup lock.

[farmbif]

do you have a good soldering iron. might try heating the screw then trying to turn it

[Springfield]

If #31 is already broken, then get your Dremel tool with the cut-off wheel and cut it off there so you can see what is actually in there, and you will probably also be able to get at the screw better, maybe with some pliers and break it free.

[Bmi48219]

ATF and Acetone 50/50.

Acetone will dissolve some plastics.

[rbuck351]

It may not shift because the throttle is advanced. Some outboards have a lock out for shifting when the throttle is above an idle.

[downzero]

No, do not use a hammer impact style screwdriver. You will break the bracket right off, and then you are in deep doo doo. I have never worked on a 9.9 Yamaha. From what I see, that screw is threaded into the metal square shaft. It is very likely it has threadlocker on it, but there's not much you can do about it. I really doubt that is threaded into the plastic.

I like the idea of heat.

Acetone will dissolve some plastics.

That's kinda the point. It needs to release its bond either with heat or chemicals, or both.

[Newtire]

I was going to suggest that the parts are held with red or green Locktite. If you can get to the screw head with a big soldering iron, I don't suggest an open flame due to gasoline and other plastic/rubber parts. Get it good and hot then try turning and see what happens. I know if I designed that engine I would not want that screw vibrating out getting lost and you are now stuck in whatever gear you were in when it came out.

If push comes to shove can you break off the rest of the broken plastic part? If so then you can get a wrench or something where you can really put the torque to it, If the screw breaks flush then you can get the shaft out and see what is going on. The screw shouldn't be that expensive especially considering how much of your time is tied up in trying to get the screw out. Good luck and keep us updated please.

I’m with AggieEE on heating the screw to liquify the loctite and then using a hand impact driver on it. If it will fit, try one of those stuck fastener removers-looks like an inside-out EZ out. Grips on the outside where it will do some good. Never saw a stuck bolt that one of those things won’t get out. I’ve even driven a small 12- point socket onto the stuck fastener to cut splines into the fastener and then impact it out. I worked in an auto trade school for 31 years and have seen students mess things up like normal people never would be able to do. Then we had to help them fix it.

[Land Owner]

All great ideas, some conflicting. I'm waiting a mite to give the Kroil a chance to penetrate in there, if it will. I tried counter rotation (tightening). I tried the "loose screwdriver" to allow a spiral thread to back itself out. I will have to borrow a 1/4" impact driver should I decide to go that way. The soldering iron for heat is sort of a last resort. Contacting the Dealer's Mechanic is high on the list today - knowing what I am facing is a big part of the solution. Purchasing parts will wait on the removal of the broken part(s) - if something breaks more than #31 or I have to heat it up - then I'll need a new #24 too. The meme says - It can't be tight if it's liquid. Don't know at this hour if I can get a Dremel down and in there to the screw head. What you don't see is a side view showing how far below the top of the casing the assembly is supported. I can't rotate #24 sufficiently to see or work on the screw head or tail, meaning it will take a mirror to see if it is staked. A lot to think about and I am not pressed for this engine's immediate use, so going to go slow and try not to mess it up. Busting one of the cast supports will RUIN this engine. I don't want to go there. As another Last Resort (alternative to heat or breaking something else), I think I could just leave it alone and go Forward and Neutral only. My son was using the engine when it broke, so I don't remember its symptoms after the part failed. I could put it all back together and do a water test in a 55-gal. barrel. We'll see...there is no press for time.

[bakerjw]

It is the shaft that is causing the problem and not the plastic. If you have a large soldering iron, you might be able to get to the screw head and get some heat on it.

Pulling the powerhead looks like it might not be that difficult and would give you the best access to the screw. If you bugger up the screw or twist it off in the shaft, you're going to have to go that route anyway.

[starnbar]

That's way too much work for nothing. There's no reason to replace a head gasket on a 2006, and you can change the water impeller at any time, the powerhead has nothing to do with it. It's jut a little screw. He can get it with an impact.

Well down here in FL we run every day and I go through Merc powerheads about 3-4 years yeah we run em hard and long hours if you you do any work on the water down here and a down engine is NO MONEY GETTER do what you want I am here to make money.

[farmbif]

when I went to outboard school we were taught to use no sealers of any type on intake side of motor, everything else was fair game. if it won't turn its either corrosion or some type of locktite. way back when even some OMC fasteners had locktite pre applied. that's why I suggest a good soldering iron to heat up the fastener in question either that or a mini pinpoint torch like a master appliance torch, just be sure all gas is drained from carbs, and flushed out of cowling and all hoses disconnected.

[Land Owner]

Yamaha Dealer locally said to use heat, not impact, on this 5mm long screw, and confirmed Red Lock-tite was used to hold-fast (YOU BET YOUR BIPPY IT DOES!).

Online parts shopping confirms it to be a machine screw with right hand threads. Dealer said to cycle through four or five times with soldering iron heat and kroil, then try torque without impact. Impact tends to snap off the screw head, he said Oh No Mr. Bill!

This 9.9 engine has been used sparingly (<100 hrs.) as a backup for a 2007 15 hp Yamaha used a lot in season to hunt ducks. My BIL wants the 9.9 to power his Gheenoe and I am trying to fix it.

[brass410]

an induction heater is the ticket for this job, and they're pretty reasonable to buy, (new or flea-bay) it will have a dozen other uses after this little job (annealing a few case neck is just one of many I use for) the screw is no doubt lock-tite secured and probably very liberally to boot as was mine dont worry about the plastic as only the screw will be heated and not the area around it all though there will be some heat transfer if you hold to long.

[wv109323]

For extra torque use a pair of Vise-grips on the shank of the screwdriver(if the shank is round). If the shank is square use an adjustable wrench. You may need someone to hold the screwdriver in the screwhead to keep from stripping it. I use Craftsman screwdrivers for a reason. I agree with heat also.

[jsizemore]

I've had to hollow grind a screwdriver blade to improve the contact in a screw slot. Feeler gage, various files and stones and a good mic. Being old means I need light and magnification. I find old S&W J&K frames that have mauled sideplate screws that will come out if the screwdriver fits properly.

[edp2k]

locktite is the problem.
Good heavy duty soldering iron, like a weller pistol grip type.
Get the screw good and hot, put the soldering iron tip on the screw head for 2 or 3 minutes
and then try it.

[Land Owner]

Yesterday was cycling soldering iron heat and Kroil cooling. I doubt that my home soldering iron is doing the job. I am eyeing a cigar lighter with its tiny torch flame, but igniting the gas lines or melting the plastic trying to get the flame on that bolt are safety issues of paramount importance. Also, I took a hard look at part #24, where it is in my engine, and how #31 is attached. There are three (3) bolts that MUST come out, two (2) are UNDER the carburetor, which you can see in the OP picture. Part #24 has to move to the right so part #31 can slide off of the other end...I'm screwed. Taking the heretofore untouched and working carburetor off was NOT in the game plan.