https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...e-up-questions
I had a similar break a while back-
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That looks like a tough one. Glue what you can, stick a pin in where it would seem to be of the most benefit, and then get the action bedded to take off some of the recoil stress to that weak area. Ouch ! Good luck. I'd also search around and see what replacement stocks are available.
IMO
That stock can be repaired.
Depending on how open you can get the crack might limit what type of glue to use.
I have used crazy glue so it gets into the crack because of how thin it is and how it flows.
You can use epoxy but getting it in to coat all surfaces of the crack is harder.
I have used a bird feather to spread the epoxy into the crack.
Regular Wood glue works , but over time it is subject to moisture and some cleaning chemicals will dissolve the water based glue.
I agree , that once the crack is repaired , you should glass bed the parts to help them fit tighter and reduce stress around the crack.
I would have to see the stock in person to determine if installing Pins will help , or if the section is too thin could weaken things.
But in the end you will probably have to do a Refinish on the stock to hide most of the repair.
I would use acraglass and a couple of small pins and it should hold for many more years. Make sure it is CLEAN and de-greased before gluing. Dye the acraglass before applying.
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That stock CAN be repaired, but before you start I'd recommend that you do a cost vs reward comparison. What make/model rifle is it? Can you easily purchase a new stock or is it a difficult to find item? If this is a commonly available and inexpensive item to replace I would forgo repairing the old stock. Another thought: that crack ahead of the wrist looks like the recoil lug on the receiver wasn't doing it's job, and the recoil forces were being transmitted back to the wrist area where the stock is weaker. If you repair or replace the stock you might consider glass bedding it so that recoil will be absorbed better.
or if you are unable to do it yourself, take it to a gunsmith. i have a rem m14 in 30 rem that needed some stock repair and cleaning(it was too much for a one armed guy) so i took it to a gunsmith. he did a wonderful job, so i didn't care about the price.
i did a wonderful job(if i do say so myself) on wooden dowels, wood glue and a crack in the forestock in my 91 argentine sporter. i had to refinish the stock(made in 1893) but you can't see where the cracked(but you can see the four wooden dowels).
Ad Reipublicae his Civitatum Foederatarum Americae, ego sum fortis et libero. Ego autem non exieris ad impios communistarum socialismi. Ora imagines in vestri demented mentem, quod vos mos have misericordia, quia non.
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The Stock Dr. can repair it. We sent him a bolt action stock broke through the wrist. It had checkering and when we got it back you could not tell it had ever been broken.
That crack was created by someone falling down on the rifle.
Yes it can be fixed IF no one has tried to glue it all ready.
Acra glass is your friend
J Wisner
It’s either a Winchester model 88 or a Sako FinnWolf- either way- a replacement stock will be hard to find. I would use Acraglas and small diameter steel or brass pins as mentioned above to repair it. That stock was likely the victim of a fall by the looks of the break.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod1033.aspx
Acraglas only needed. Drill small holes from inside the stock, thru the crack. This gets fresh wood to get a good grip on.
Search this guy. "GunnyUSMC" Has photos. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...repair.878391/
Last edited by 243winxb; 08-22-2021 at 07:15 PM.
easy fix. acraglass or titebond waterproof glue. NO stain. i think, better to use "c" clamp than surgical tubing. try each before glueing to see which connects both sides of the break best. if you use a c clamp; use something against the wood so that it is not marred by the clamp, like a popsicle stick. i would pin it on the inside. crossing thru the break. inlet with a dremel tool or by hand. 2 pieces of brass or steel .030 -060 diameter x 2+ inches long. i mentioned to not use stain because the glue seam will become more visible.
Here's a short tale, don't know if it will help you or not. A friend of mine came to a closed metal gate, and following good safety procedure he reached through the gate with his rifle and set it leaning up against the other side. Then he climbed over the gate, but fell off and landed on the rifle and broke the stock. For some reason he remembered that there is NRA insurance that comes as a benefit of membership that covers a certain amount of damage or loss to firearms. He contacted the NRA and they told him where to send the damaged gun. He got it back fully repaired in short order at no cost. So, if you're an NRA member there might be some help there. Most members never think of that benefit.
I'm with those who think your stock can be repaired. I also would recommend AccraGlas Gel for the job. I'd carefully spread the crack open and squish the gel in with a putty knife. Keep squishing until it comes out the other side, then let it close up on itself. You'll need to get all of the excess off as soon as possible. I usually use an ice cream stick for removing the excess, but lots of tools would work. Then you can try to carefully wipe away any residue with a solvent such as acetone or lacquer thinner, working carefully around and up to the edge of the crack. The rag should just be damp with the solvent, not very wet as you don't want to get any of it into the crack. Probably you'll end up refinishing that area of the stock, or maybe even the entire stock to blend the repair completely. The solvent may effect the finish in the area of the repair anyway, so prepare to refinish the stock if necessary. Can one or two of the threaded stock repair pins help? I don't know without seeing it up close, but I always use them when I can.
DG
Finally someone else who has used Super Glue (Cyno-Acrylic Adhesive)! I have used the stuff for years but every time I have suggested it I either get the "roll-eye" response or else simply ignored, however the stuff works great and is way stronger than people seem to think. Epoxy of course works also IF it can get to all of the separated surface but that's most times a very big IF, Super Glue adhesive wicks into even hairline cracks and easily reaches otherwise impossible to reach areas. Regardless of what some seem to think it can be a viable repair option and in a lot of cases it can be the better option since it doesn't matter how strong an adhesive is if it doesn't reach all the broken area, besides the stuff IS quite strong contrary to popular thought. I have used it for years working with "Fancy" grade Walnut blanks because it seems the fancier a grain pattern is the more likely it is to have cracks, these can range from hairline cracks to obvious separation of the grain due to shrinkage as the wood dries. Cutting into repaired cracks, even thin hairline cracks, during shaping has revealed an amazing tendency for this stuff to wick into even the tightest areas and so it has become my first choice for most crack repair, I would much rather have 100% penetration (or at least nearly so) with Super Glue than 75% or so with most anything else.
The key to success with this type of adhesive, as with most products, is to use a quality brand such as Loctite and of course the thin formula and not a gel. Another problem with a lot of these repairs is oil contamination, hardly any glue will bond very well to an oil soaked surface so that is another consideration when contemplating a repair such as this.
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Dyed epoxy, BUT...…….
After prepping and before applying an epoxy, take a few step to avoid making the job a lot more difficult.
Apply, but do not rub down, a thick coat of a good paste wax to the entire exterior of the stock wood and the interior of the magazine inletting, taking care to not get any inside the actual crack.
The reason is that epoxy will get anywhere you may actually accidentally touch with your fingers while fiddling with filling the crack.
Apply a dollop of the same epoxy to a scrap of wood.
After the crack is filled and dries awhile, check the epoxy on the wood scrap with the edge of a cut wooden popsicle stick or tongue depressor to see if it's still soft enough to slice in half.
If/when it is, remove whatever you bound the repair with ang cut any epoxy on the stock and make the inside & outside of the filled crack flat/even with the surrounding wood.
Let the epoxy cure for a day, then rub down/off the paste wax.
.
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Thank you everyone!
I will be attempting the repair and following some of the advice given here.
And yes, this is a Winchester M88, so, no cheap stock options.
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You can also use a blow gun and an air compressor to get whatever glue you decide to use into the crack. It probably won't work with AccraGlas Gel, but it should with most anything else.
Brown dye doesn't really match the tone of Walnut. Black doesn't either, but it can be made to look like a dark strip of grain thus fairly unnoticeable. Since I found out about using black dye, my bottle of brown hasn't been used.
Robert
Try using a shop vac to draw the glue into the crack. It works.
here are some stocks(win m88) in case it doesn't go to plan
https://www.cottagecraftworks.com/wi...lacement-stock
https://www.shop.macongunstocks.com/...r-88-Stock.htm
https://gun-parts.com/winchesterstocks/
Ad Reipublicae his Civitatum Foederatarum Americae, ego sum fortis et libero. Ego autem non exieris ad impios communistarum socialismi. Ora imagines in vestri demented mentem, quod vos mos have misericordia, quia non.
To the Republic of these United States of America, I am strong and free. I will never surrender to godless communist socialism. Pray to images in your demented mind, that you will have mercy, because i will not.
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BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
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