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Thread: Mold alignment

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Mold alignment

    I picked a up used Lyman mold a while back and decided to cast a few with it last night. I was tickled with how well they filled out and they dropped out like butter. Unfortunately, I found they are a bit out of round. Upon closer inspection I noticed the halves do not align perfectly and I could see a sliver of daylight between them.

    It was getting dark so I brought the mold in where I had better light and found the edges of the holes that the locator buttons slip into were a bit displaced upward. That explains the slight gap. I carefully filed them flush and now my two halves fit tightly together. They are still barely offset from one another. Just enough that a finger nail will snag the edge.

    Does anyone have any suggestions to align the halves nicely? This mold will be exclusively for pistol plinking. The resulting bullets will be PCed and sized. I have yet to load and fire any but I have no other molds in this caliber with which to compare. Am I making mountains from mole hills? I have very little into the mold so I’m not going to sweat it if it’s a loss.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Wheelguns 1961's Avatar
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    Take a close look at the male alignment pins. Is one in a little more than the other? Are they both in too far? I imagine your problem is with these.
    Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wheelguns 1961 View Post
    Take a close look at the male alignment pins. Is one in a little more than the other? Are they both in too far? I imagine your problem is with these.
    Ah, there is one a bit further in than the other. I’ll have to dig out one of my other Lyman molds so I can compare pin protrusion. Thank you for the reply!

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    The outside of the blocks having a hair of misalignment means little. The bullets are the place to look, test it again. I set my pins so that they have no play between blocks and with a firm pinch will close the gap. And just a little effort required to separate the blocks.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    The outside of the blocks having a hair of misalignment means little. The bullets are the place to look, test it again. I set my pins so that they have no play between blocks and with a firm pinch will close the gap. And just a little effort required to separate the blocks.
    This is good information. It’s unlikely that I’ll have an opportunity to pour any fresh ones within the next week or so. I have adjusted the pins and it definitely seems to help. I like that it feels crisp when the halves lightly click together. Thank you both for your assistance.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    With blocks removed from handles and plate off helps real feel. Engage the blocks with one in each hand, pushing halves together is there any movement of blocks trying to rotate one on the face of the other? One or both corners moving? I have a 1/4" aluminum plate with hole drilled to lay block half on and tap pins adjusting fit and engagement.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I agree with post 4. You can adjust the pins with a punch. Be easy- Get the mold clean and hold to a light. It shouldn't need filing unless someone dropped it.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Wheelguns 1961's Avatar
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    It is also easier to adjust the pins when the mold is hot. I lube my pins when I cast, but only a tiny drop on the male pin. It is my belief that excess oil migrates between the pin and the mold, and causes the pins to move when hot.
    Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!

  9. #9
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    georgerkahn's Avatar
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    Here's a "superstitious" thing to try if all else fails ! Some years back I had a similar challenge and messed with pins, but achieved only maybe 90% success. Whining to a friend at range, he suggested I remove (Lee) mould handles and replace them with a set of genuine Lyman handles -- "just for kicks and giggles". Re the operation of the different handles, it was like a magical fix: the (2-cav) mould commenced dropping perfect bullets!
    Hey -- I'm not bad-mouthing Lee handles -- perhaps just this one set I had was possibly a hair "defective"? But, whatever, again -- if all else fails -- like I did: try swapping handles.
    BEST!
    geo

  10. #10
    Boolit Master


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    If the female holes are worn remove the pins and install them from the back into the female side making the former female into a male. The male is now perfect female holes!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    A lot of Lee mold handles aren't straight but they are soft and easy to bend them to match the pin holes.. I double check mine. The wrong mold handles can make the female pin holes larger over time.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Or replace the hinge bolt with an AN-6 aircraft bolt and washer up or a bolt with a shank body of a real .375". The original bolt is a wee bit shy on dimension and handle holes ID's running on threads. Close your mold and grasp blocks and hold them closed, other hand move handles in and out. Everyone I have has been replaced and removes the double closed feel and just makes me feel better. Does remove slop and handle tweak may be in order for engagement alignment, as stated above they are SOFT and tweak easy.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    The United States of America is the largest and most experienced reloading laboratory the universe will ever see.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    I got some time yesterday to splash a bit of lead into some holes and am pleased to report that my mold is now dropping happy boolits! A big thank you to all for the suggestions.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check