The slotted guide was annoying enough for me that I removed it and I now just use the NOE rod itself as a rest to slide my mold-blocks over while I cast, similar to OS OK's rest in the pics above.Originally Posted by kevin c
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The slotted guide was annoying enough for me that I removed it and I now just use the NOE rod itself as a rest to slide my mold-blocks over while I cast, similar to OS OK's rest in the pics above.
Hah, that’s a practical solution worth a try. Better than me trying to bend, drill and tap bar stock. Bending stuff, maybe this soft handed white collar guy could manage. The rest, not so much.
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Not everyone runs lee molds. I can tell you that multi cavity large brass block molds that have small cavities.. Like .225/35 gr... Those are very very very hard to keep warm using lead that is just at melting temp.
I run lead at 800 and make beautiful bullets. If my pot dies a year sooner..big deal..it was 55$... Each person should Run what works good for them and not worry about being bossed by others.
Original poster specifically mentioned Lee 2 cavity large bullet design mold so IMO to cast at 800F is not a very good advice for the reasons I listed earlier. I am just stating my opinion, not bossing anyone around. For the record I did cast with Lee 224- 55gr 6 cavity mold and towards the bottom of the pot it was running empty and temperature dropped to around 660F and I was still getting wrinkle free bullets which surprised me actually.
The current price of Lee 4-20 pot from Midway is 75.99 plus tax plus shipping, not everyone can afford to just throw away the pot and buy a new one after few sessions of casting. You can cast at whatever temperature works for your particular mold, but I personally would not recommend someone to start casting at 800 degrees, if you're getting wrinkles - preheating the mold and smoking will solve 99% of the problems.
A few sessions of casting? That's hilarious... If a pot dies after a few sessions.. It's not the heat..its a defect. The pot is capable of running that heat. The 10# pots are cheaper. It's a tool.. Im not afraid of using tools. It's like buying a hammer but afraid to hit big nails with it ... This isn't advice and ymmv.
I run 95% of my moulds between 675 and 685. This includes LEE 6 cavs from 32 acp up to 45-70, and many 4-5 cav NOE and Accurate, most in the 185-240 grain range. I have found no need to to hotter, but I have had to keep up the tempo more on some moulds than others. I have a PID so I can see the actual temp all the time.
especially when replacement parts are free from LEE. No phone calls, nor proof of purchase just go to their site, find parts, put them in the cart. when you go to checkout the parts are free but ya gotta pay shipping. Note of caution, this free stuff is for a single part. If you select two thermostats, you get charged for the second one, but you can have multiple different parts.
“Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan
This is what you need. Been using it for several years.
https://www.opennrg.com/product/lee-...t-upgrade-kit/
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The Lee melters do not have a thermostat like Magma, Lyman and RCBS. To save money they use a bimetal switch similar to Infinite Controls used on electric ranges. It turns the heating element on and off every few seconds, the higher the setting, the longer the on time. Heat from the pot will slightly affect the switch but it is not a thermostat and has no sensor in or next to the pot. Typically as the level of alloy goes down the temperature goes up. Some casters have gotten very good at dealing with this, others have added PID.
PID uses a thermocouple and micro computer to learn the heating characteristics of the pot and apply exactly enough electricity to the heating element to keep temperature within a degree or two. It can switch several times a second so a Solid State Relay is best. They also switch between AC Cycles so No Electronic Noise.
Old School was a Mercury Thermostat which are difficult to get now. They worked well but had a dead band. Temperature would drop below cut in and the heating starts and does not stop until a higher cut out was reached maybe 10 degrees higher. Temperature would climb further until the element's heat was absorbed then start falling. It was good enough that most who have thermostats don't bother with PID.
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
Well tomorrow's the day ..not my first time to cast boolits of course but it is my first session with a shinny new Pro 4/20 BOTTOM FEED ...
And my first session with 2 new Lee molds in RB .375 and .454
I unpacked the 4/20 mid week ... unplugged and free of lead to just look it over ... could not get the handle to lift as in to pour ..I guess the factory set them hard tight to lessen shipping damage to the rod and seat ? ..
So first piece of business is a guesstimate as to how much travel is appropriate ...I elected to allow very little travel ..I can always open it a skoch vs.. too much I could see a splattering mess ...
I suppose the 4/20 has gone thru some changes as I have seen pictures of a sort of locking screw near the rod head adjusting slot but mine has no means to "lock" the rod adjustment ..then on the other hand..
I understand that turning the rod back and forth as a means of possibly clearing a leaky seal/seat is expected ..so a locked setting on the rod may not be desirable ..
I will cast on my back covered but open sided back porch with 65 to 75 temps ..the question is ..can I alternate ..or will I need to alternate the molds in your opinion (time will tell of course) or will I barely keep just one in the temperature sweet spot!!??
Pot contents temp will of course play a roll ... here I am playing by ear using a laser temp taker(thinking 700*) ..which is another whole subject unto itself!!
Everyone have a safe and enjoyable holiday
Bear
Before you run any lead in the pot would be a good time to properly seat that valve with some valve seating compound.
a m e r i c a n p r a v d a
Be a Patriot . . . expose their lies!
“In a time of deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” G. Orwell
Thumbs up to lapping the seat
Bear
The Laser guided Infrared Thermometers won't work on shiny surfaces. Float a piece of dark steel on the surface of the lead and read that or get a real lead thermometer.
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
Well the deed is done ...I fired up today .. just a test run of the new Lee 4/20 and 2 new Lee 2cav roundball molds ..
Actually went well ..I was surprised ..I don't know why ..just a new way of doing something I've done for years ..
Now what's new to me is of course the Lee BOTTOM pour Pro 4/20 pot ..the new and operative word here is "Bottom Pour"
The other two wild cards are 2 factory new ALUMINUM 2 cav molds .. operative word is Aluminum ..I've never cast with aluminum
The pot was a dreamboat compared to my old dipping days! ..I lapped the seat on the valve (as was so wisely suggested) prior to first load up and no real drips as such but a little hang down 1/4" tit sometimes ..(temp?)
The cavity fill I soon learned needs to be fast and from the side (for perfectly formed boolits) rather than "hitting the hole" with a dipper
The molds I followed Lee's start up and break in instructions and used bees wax for lubing the sprue hinge screw and the two block aligning pins ..I re-lubed after the first 100 bullets on each mold ..the .44 mold I used first ..I notice a rub line on the top of the mold and correspondingly and aluminum line on the steel bottom side of the sprue cutter ..so I set it aside ...
The .36 cal mold ran fine ..was able to cast fine balls in a very short time after learning on the .44 mold as to pour speed and pot temp ...speaking of pot temp..
Put the laser type temp meter on the lead and it gives an inaccurate reading ( as pointed out the reflectivity of molten lead foils the "whizo" type temperature gauge) ..HOWEVER ..if you place the laser dot just above the lead level on the steel rod to the valve and bingo you have a pretty good temp number ..
I realize I am casting a very very rudimentary boolit but the temperature management for ME.. which got me quickly casting smooth silver boolits was to just watch the sprue puddle ..thick, thin, wavy, frostie, shinny etc.
Bear
Great job!
A little synthetic 2 cycle oil on a long Q-tip will clean that lead smear off a hot mold. I keep one ready while casting.
I've had good luck with Amazon Basics 6" cotton swabs. I've gotten a bunch that split in the middle before.
I thought all Lee Sprue Plates were aluminum.
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
Cutter plate is steel.
OK synthetic 2 cycle oil to clean off the lead off the bottom of the steel cutter plate ..question ...
What does everyone do as to cleaning aluminum molds after use ??
I hope the curved line in the top of the mold is just lead because it looks a lot like aluminum removed and aluminum on the cutter plate ..I will get after it in the morning as soon as I figure out the proper clean up of the molds
Last question ..should there be any lube between the bottom of the cutter plate and the top of the aluminum mold block ?? ...Not wet of course but like a "film" so to speak?
Bear
I rub anti-seize on the bottom of the sprue plate and top of the cavities (careful to keep it out of the cavities), rub it in like your wiping it off, it doesn't come off but it'll seal the metal from tinning.
I use the anti-seize on all the screw threads too.
a m e r i c a n p r a v d a
Be a Patriot . . . expose their lies!
“In a time of deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” G. Orwell
Check the steel sprue plate for burrs where the scratches are and remove them with a fine file.
I only have one Lee, a 6 cavity with an aluminum sprue plate.
I keep a 6" swab soaked with 1 drop of synthetic 2 cycle and use it to clean the top of the blocks and the bottom of the sprue plate when smears get obvious. A good time to do it is when the mold is a little too hot and a little cooling won't break the session.
Last edited by Mal Paso; 09-05-2021 at 10:48 PM.
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
That’s a really good idea. I’m going to try that.
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