Choice of Revolver against Grizzly Bear attack.

[475AR]

While I haven't been in grizzly country I have several friends that do, and what they tell me is:
1) You need to be able to control and shoot accurately what ever gun you choose and you have to be able to do that fast.
2) Use a solid strong non expanding deep penatrating bullet.
3) Practice, Practice, Practice with said gun and full power ammo.
They do seem to have different opinions on how fast is fast enough and how big the target needs to be to put them in. I have seen some other people suggest 5 rounds in a 10" target @ 5yds in 3 seconds.

[Graybeard96]

Yep, I would want a double action just in case I only had one hand to shoot and needed a fast shot. About 4” for easier carry but enough barrel to get the bullet moving. 44 mag. or more power level ( 45 colt plus P is fine). Often in these cases, the gun may never be needed, but of course if needed, it must perform.
Maybe more importantly, just like LEOs have to qualify, I would practice drawing from the holster and getting a accurate shot off on a bear size target facing you. Sure, use lighter loads for practice but the last practice scenario should be with carry ammo. Know your ability and limitations.

You are raising an interesting point I never thought off. Having only on Hand available points definitely to use a DA. I practice as much as I can and because of it are quite comfortable shooting Full or near full Loads with a .44 Rem. Mag. Don't want to reerig to another Caliber, getting to old for that and don't want the extra cost and difficulty obtaining Casings and perhaps Bullets, Molds & Gaschecks.
If a Boar Grizzly is not wounded and not protecting a Kill, most charges are phony and he hits the Brakes within 10 to 15 feet of a single Guy. The bigger the Boar the less chances he will take. Sows with Cubs, all Bets are off.

Keeping your Nerves is more important then anything ! A warning shoot where he gets the full Muzzle Blast in his Face works most of the time to convince him to back off.

Cheers

[memtb]

For those that consider most any handgun is inadequate perhaps consider this. While admittedly the 45-70 in the original factory loading is not a dinosaur slayer.....it’s been pretty effective on large game for over 100 years. My handgun (8 3/8” barrel) with a 400 grain cast, wide metplat bullet has a mv about 160 or so fps higher mv than does the 45-70 with the 405 grain load. So.....I’m not giving up anything to a cartridge proven in the field!

And yes, ultimately bullet placement is always the highest priority. At point-blank, bear defense range.....shot placement will not be any better with the rifle vs handgun. In fact.....the handgun may have some advantages. Also, I’ll risk keeping the front sight in place! memtb

[Skipper]

I think I'd use this one:

[contender1]

For the OP;

Obviously you have your preferences,, of which,, many have chosen to not read. You want to stay with 44 mag, and have no problem with a 7-1/2" bbl. Understood.

I own a few Ruger SA's in 44 mag,, (Including a Hunter like yours,) as well as a couple of Redhawks, and Super Redhawks. Some in 44 mag, 45 Colt, & 480. I have shot them extensively.

While I agree with one poster about the necessity of a reload after firing 6 shots, most likely won't be an issue,, we also understand; "Never say never."
And the above poster about the use of one hand only,, an EXCELLENT point. I teach SD to ladies,, and express the need to be able to operate a handgun with only one hand, AND it being the "off" hand.
"Just in case."

So, studying your desires,, a DA, in 44 mag like the Rugers will fit your desires. Of the two models,, I think you will be served quite well with the Redhawk vs the Super Redhawk.
Why?
The Super was developed many years ago due to an ODD problem with a very few of the earlier Redhawks, that the Ruger engineers couldn't figure out. A very few Redhawks had the barrels separate from the frame. I know,, because one I owned was the very first one to have it happen. It took a few years of serious study before they discovered it was an assy & lube issue. Basically, the lube they were using was allowed to sit for a few weeks on barrel threads, dry, and then over torqued. it was an accidental thing, that happened during a 2 week shut down.
But they developed the Super thinking they needed to beef up the frame. This happened before they discovered the reason a few had barrel separations.

So, get you a Redhawk in .44 mag, and don't look back. It will feel different in your hands over the Hunter,, but it will be about as infallible as you can get.
PS; I have been following your issues with the Hunter in your other posts as well.

[Graybeard96]

For the OP;

Obviously you have your preferences,, of which,, many have chosen to not read. You want to stay with 44 mag, and have no problem with a 7-1/2" bbl. Understood.

I own a few Ruger SA's in 44 mag,, (Including a Hunter like yours,) as well as a couple of Redhawks, and Super Redhawks. Some in 44 mag, 45 Colt, & 480. I have shot them extensively.

While I agree with one poster about the necessity of a reload after firing 6 shots, most likely won't be an issue,, we also understand; "Never say never."
And the above poster about the use of one hand only,, an EXCELLENT point. I teach SD to ladies,, and express the need to be able to operate a handgun with only one hand, AND it being the "off" hand.
"Just in case."

So, studying your desires,, a DA, in 44 mag like the Rugers will fit your desires. Of the two models,, I think you will be served quite well with the Redhawk vs the Super Redhawk.
Why?
The Super was developed many years ago due to an ODD problem with a very few of the earlier Redhawks, that the Ruger engineers couldn't figure out. A very few Redhawks had the barrels separate from the frame. I know,, because one I owned was the very first one to have it happen. It took a few years of serious study before they discovered it was an assy & lube issue. Basically, the lube they were using was allowed to sit for a few weeks on barrel threads, dry, and then over torqued. it was an accidental thing, that happened during a 2 week shut down.
But they developed the Super thinking they needed to beef up the frame. This happened before they discovered the reason a few had barrel separations.

So, get you a Redhawk in .44 mag, and don't look back. It will feel different in your hands over the Hunter,, but it will be about as infallible as you can get.
PS; I have been following your issues with the Hunter in your other posts as well.

I appreciate your contribution which further Cements the Ruger Redhawk or Super Redhawk may be the right one for me. Finding both in a Store so I can hold them in my Hands and compare how they fit will be the next problem.

Thank's

[Graybeard96]

Thanks to all for you time and contributions. Its been an interesting Journey. I think I found the answers I was looking for and leave it at that. However if someone with a Ruger Redhawk and/or Super Redhawk in .44 Rem Mag. with a 7.5ish Barrel has any issues with the Gun, I would very much appreciate hearing about it before I purchase !

Thank's

[Three44s]

I have both the RH & SRH and they are both very good revolvers.

I have to give you my thoughts later this evening about the subtle and not so subtle differences.

I will end with this however: Many people tend to diss the SRH on ascetics, don’t fall in that trap.

Best regards

Three44s

[rockrat]

I would throw out that if you want a lightweight rifle, maybe a 500S&W or 460 S&W Big Horn armory, 454 Casull Rossi or a Rem 600 in 350 mag.

[Divil]

If I could shoot a .44 Mag loaded with good hardcast ammo that would be my first choice. Ruger Redhawk or Smith 629. However carpal tunner is being a real jerk to me and I think my ability to quickly and accurately shoot such a revolver questionable at best.

A good 8 shot .357 Ruger Redhawk or whatever .357 8 shot Smith makes these days or a (reliable) 7 shot GP 100 in .357 loaded with 200gr. Hardcast Corbon or Grizzly factory ammo. Preferably a 6 inch barrel but a 4 or
5 inch barreled revolver would be ok too.

[Char-Gar]

Hunt up an Ithaca Police Special 12 gage pump. It has an alloy action, 20" bbl and is not to heavy. These also have a decent set of open sights. Load with good slugs and cowboy up. Any revolver you could pick would be inferior to this.

[robertbank]

I will differ to a friend of mine who guided for Grizzly bear hunters for a number of years until the BC Gov't ended the Grizzly bear hunt here in BC. He now guides for folks who want to see Grizzly bears. For a rifle he carried a .338 Winchester. Gun was stainless steel and I think a Sako. For a handgun he carried a Glock 10MM. In his environment (Mine too), the Glocks only lasted one year before they rusted out. He now carries a Ruger GP-`100 in 10MM. In the NW Coastal environment stainless is the only way to go. If S&W made a 10MM auto I am sure he would have switched to that platform. The M&P series have stainless slides...Glock's don't. The advantage of the semi-auto is capacity.

He felt as I do, that the heavy handgun platforms are just to heavy to carry around and the recoil is to severe to expect fast, aimed shots. Too, you either hit the bears head or spinal column or you are in a wrestling match. To him, the handgun was his last option. While I now carry a GP-100 in 10MM loaded with 200 gr jacketed bullets I also carry a Mossberg shotgun loaded with slugs. The latter is my primary the former my secondary.

Our bears are big along the coast. Even the Black Bears seem to be larger than what I saw in Alberta. I am not overly concerned about having a bear encounter. I prefer to make enough noise to let them know I am in the area. Unless surprised or nursing a cub both species seem to want to have little to do with we humans and that is good by me.

Take Care

Bob
ps Weight is the biggest issue you want to consider and your environment the second.
pps I also know a guide who carries a 500S&W in a chest rig and can shoot it as fast as I can unload a .357mag so there you are.

[Bazoo]

You mention the shells being cumbersome to eject, unlike a colt. What you mean is, the chambers don’t line up with the ejection port automatically? One solution to this problem, is installing a free spin pawl, either a modified original or a purchased one. This allows the cylinder to turn independently of the “clicks” on the ratchet. It can turn backwards or forwards when unloading and never goes past the chamber too far to load. It also doesn’t line up perfectly at the ejection port on a click like a colt.

The ejector rod housing flying off after some use is a common occurrence with full power loads on single actions. A gunsmith can remove the screw and replace the stud. One option is to have a barrel installed with a recoil lug that keeps this from happening. I’m not sure if your barrel can be modified in this manner or if it requires a new barrel.

My point I spose, since you’ve seemed to have found a solution, is don’t rule out repairing and modifying your existing gun. Your existing gun has one thing going for it, familiarity.

[rintinglen]

People keep bringing up shotguns.

The OP is carrying an axe, a shovel, a brush axe and a chain saw. If he is to carry a long gun of any sort, he may as well stay with his .338 which he has had for years and presumably has developed a modicum of skill and certain level of trust. A loaded shotgun weighs in the neighborhood of 8 pounds and requires two hands to put in service. The revolver weighs less than half that and can be used with one hand, should the occasion arise. In my view, this is precisely the sort of situation that a handgun is for.

Yes, if all he was doing was strolling along in his dockers and Red Wings, with nothing to do save carry a gun, a rifle or shotgun would be superior, provided he was well versed in its use. But otherwise, the long gun is likely to be sitting next to the pack while he is plying his shovel, brush knife or axe, while the revolver is still on his belt. I would prefer a magnum revolver to a shovel, but others may have a different point of view.

[Graybeard96]

You mention the shells being cumbersome to eject, unlike a colt. What you mean is, the chambers don’t line up with the ejection port automatically? One solution to this problem, is installing a free spin pawl, either a modified original or a purchased one. This allows the cylinder to turn independently of the “clicks” on the ratchet. It can turn backwards or forwards when unloading and never goes past the chamber too far to load. It also doesn’t line up perfectly at the ejection port on a click like a colt.

The ejector rod housing flying off after some use is a common occurrence with full power loads on single actions. A gunsmith can remove the screw and replace the stud. One option is to have a barrel installed with a recoil lug that keeps this from happening. I’m not sure if your barrel can be modified in this manner or if it requires a new barrel.

My point I spose, since you’ve seemed to have found a solution, is don’t rule out repairing and modifying your existing gun. Your existing gun has one thing going for it, familiarity.

is installing a free spin pawl, Interesting - I never heard of such a thing but will talk to my Gunsmith about it.

The Familiarity aspect is certainly true but I also spent Days past Winter to machine a Replacement Grip out of Aluminum for this Bisley which fits me now like a Glove and is a Dream to shoot not to mention I would not have to fork out a Bundle for a new Gun.

Thanks

[Butzbach]

[Three44s]

The option of upgrading your SBH is by any metric more economical and you know your existing gun.

In reference to changing to a DA, the Redhawk will have a grip angle closest to your SBH, especially with yours being Bisley. There are not the choices for grips for the Redhawk that there are for the SRH and as I recall the latter shares grips with the GP 100.

The grip frame angle with the SRH/GP100 is akin to the Smith 29/629.

Triggers: The Redhawk uses one spring for hammer strike and trigger return. The SRH/GP100/SP101 uses separate springs for each task. The significance is that in theory a SRH can have a more refined trigger pull than a Redhawk before you experience light hammer strikes.

In my experience, the same gunsmith (a good one by the way) wound up with both my RH and SRH having light strike issues. Both revolvers had better triggers but the reliability was found by using old school Federal primers due to the lighter hammer fall. The RH does have the better trigger, I guess it did not get the “memo”?

Keep in mind I just shoot the Redhawk more due to a number of factors so it is truly more broken in. Probably some factors about how much it may have been fussed around with as it was being built?

Ascetics: The Redhawk is a more handsome gun than the SRH but looks ain’t everything.

The weight is similar so that is not much of an issue.

I understand you are happy with a 7 1/2” barrel and that is not my cup of tea for a revolver to defend against a bear, but this is your choice and the good news is Ruger currently offers both models in 7 1/2”.

A great load I came with that could help transition to DA from SA that I carry a lot goes like this: I use magnum brass, primer with the Federal large pistol magnum, the bullet is my own cast from the RCBS 250K, and it gets a boot from 11.8 gr of Hodgdons HS6 powder.

Three44s

[DocSavage]

I am not a hunter but have 2 Redhawks and 1 Super Redhawk the only problem I ever had with the Redhawk is the hook that connects the hammer and main spring can break easy fix though. Haven't had a problem with the Super Redhaawk. I've had the transfer bar break on a couple of Blackhawks.

[Boogieman]

I have both a Sp101 and aGp 100 they use 2 springs the springs are the same in both guns

[Mal Paso]

I am not a hunter but have 2 Redhawks and 1 Super Redhawk the only problem I ever had is the hook that connects the hammer and main spring can break easy fix though. Haven't had a problem with the Super Redhaawk.

Yep, had that happen to me in the woods, turned the gun into a rock. Also the Redhawk is known for light primer strikes. There is Only One Spring with too little energy is devoted to the hammer. It was my first 44, I had read all the specs, thought I knew.

The S&W 629 has a better trigger which can be tuned without reducing the mainspring. 4 inch if you are in and out of vehicles but 6 inch is nicer to shoot. I've warn out a Redhawk and a 629 and I'd get the 629 again.

The Super Redhawk has 2 springs, may be more tunable, is heavier.