Choice of Revolver against Grizzly Bear attack.

[jonp]

Thanks for asking,
They way the Rules are in my parts. One has to qualify under Supervision by a specially licensed Examiner. The Shooter has to put 6 Rounds into a 9" Radius at 5 Meters, 10 Meters and 15 Meters. Each one in 18 Seconds. The Shells must be the same Load then the Shooter will use in the Bush which in my case is full Power Loads pushing a 240 Grain Lead GC Slug. Gun must be carried on Belt, no cross Draw or Shoulder Holster allowed. Gun must be secured in the Holster by 2 separate Buttons. If a shot is fired in the Bush, it must be reported asap and investigation begins. While I am maintaining Trails I am usually by myself, next Person probably at least 60 miles away.

Thanks

Thanks for this. Very inteteresting

[dla]

Revolver in Stainless Steel and I am Eyeballing the DA Ruger Super Redhawk in .44 Rem. Mag and also the DA Ruger Redhawk.
I would be interested to hear from those which actually carry any of those 2 Revolvers and what there Opinion is.

Thank's

Here I go not answering your question...

I carry the 329pd. I load it with 300gr WFN at just over 1000fps. It is not painful for me.

I quit trying to load for armored grizzly when I finally realized that there is no advantage to a bullet passing through a bear and burying itself 10" into the dirt versus 4" into the dirt.
The sectional density of a 300gr bullet (.232) and the momentum at 1000fps is plenty to drill a 1/2" hole a long, long ways.

The 329 rides on my hip without fan fare - it weighs 31oz loaded. I don't quibble over whether or not to take it along. My happiness level is high.

[Graybeard96]

Here I go not answering your question...

I carry the 329pd. I load it with 300gr WFN at just over 1000fps. It is not painful for me.

I quit trying to load for armored grizzly when I finally realized that there is no advantage to a bullet passing through a bear and burying itself 10" into the dirt versus 4" into the dirt.
The sectional density of a 300gr bullet (.232) and the momentum at 1000fps is plenty to drill a 1/2" hole a long, long ways.

The 329 rides on my hip without fan fare - it weighs 31oz loaded. I don't quibble over whether or not to take it along. My happiness level is high.

Nice Revolver but for the brutal wear my equipment can be subjected too I prefer the ruggedness of Stainless Steel the big Ruger's provide. Another thing is I always liked Barrels in the 7-8 " length. Been shooting a lot of 240/250 GC Bullets and very comfortable with them but because of repeated advise including yours using 300 Gr. Bullets, coming Winter will see me give them a serious try.

Thank's

[Castaway]

Graybeard 96, hate to belabor the point about your Black Hawk failure, but do I understand the ejector housing screw sheared or did it become unscrewed? Was part of the screw still embedded in the barrel? There’s not much mass to the aluminum housing and the force to shear that screw I would think would shear other things way before hand. I’ve launched ejector housings twice and each time, it was the screw that had backed out under recoil.

[Graybeard96]

Graybeard 96, hate to belabor the point about your Black Hawk failure, but do I understand the ejector housing screw sheared or did it become unscrewed? Was part of the screw still embedded in the barrel? There’s not much mass to the aluminum housing and the force to shear that screw I would think would shear other things way before hand. I’ve launched ejector housings twice and each time, it was the screw that had backed out under recoil.

Thank you for asking, we may be able to learn something from this failure.
The Ejector Housing on mine is definitely Stainless Steel probably 304 because it is Magnetic. I am the first Owner (after Ruger) I purchased this Revolver in 2006.

The Screw definitely did not unscrew but was reasonable tight when she got sheered off leaving a short part of it in the hole. My precise Chinese Caliper tells me the Screw actually was tight, bottomed out in the Hole. A few days before it happened I used this Revolver on the Handgun Range, same evening when I cleaned the Gun I noticed the Ejector Housing Screw was loose and immediately tightened it. No Locktite or anything was used.

I think I mentioned it somewhere before, The Ejector Rod shows clearly peening from hitting the solid round part of the Screw Stud. To prevent this in future I inserted a small thin Leather Disk. Soon I get a chance I will get myself some Blue Locktite and will Locktite the Screw and the entire Ejector Housing to the Barrel. Unfortunately because of the Failure the earliest I could be using this particular Revolver is now almost a year away, meanwhile another Revolver of mine will have to pull up the Slack.

Hope I explained it good enough.

Thanks

[robertbank]

Hear I thought only the Colt SAA and clones suffered the back out routine. Al my SAA clones have the ejector screws locked down with Blue loctite.

9.63xlAl Hey Al get your 12 gauge with slugs out for your berry picking forays. Slugs are big, heavy and work. Just remember the the three S's.

Take Care

Bob

[Laguna Freak]

Well, I dont shoot either so you can take this with a grain of salt. I do shoot 285 gr SWC (approx. 15 BHN) out of a 22 yr old Taurus Raging Bull that has very close tolerances. A couple days ago I shot 25 for 25 into a 12” x 12” target from 20 yards. Drawing and shooting about as fast as I could while envisioning the target as the head of a charging griz. I’m way too slow if I first see the bear charging at 20 yards. For what its worth, I think the so-called “hard cast” 20+ BHN boolits marketed today are over-rated.

Now my son shoots a Super Red Hawk and loves it. I find it very heavy. Lastly, Colt has the Anaconda again. I’d recommend handling a new Raging Bull if you might like it as much as I like mine. The guns I’ve seen for sale recently are over $1,200. Don’t know if Taurus QC has declined in the last 20 years. Hope there is something useful to you in this post.

[Graybeard96]

Hear I thought only the Colt SAA and clones suffered the back out routine. Al my SAA clones have the ejector screws locked down with Blue loctite.

9.63xlAl Hey Al get your 12 gauge with slugs out for your berry picking forays. Slugs are big, heavy and work. Just remember the the three S's.

Take Care

Bob

Now that you said that, I pulled the Stud off my FG SAA Colt in 32-20. The setup is different and better in that there is a Female Stud in the Barrel presumably soldered into the Barrel which takes the recoil which of course is almost none in this Caliber. The Studscrew just fastens the Ejector Rod housing to the soldered in Female Stud. Unfortunately I don't own a big Caliber FG Colt so I cant check.

Thanks

[memtb]

I realize that you’ve already purchased a replacement screw ($$$’s), I also have never heard of one shearing off. Not knowing the exact design of the screw area, I have a thought. Often, on very heavy recoil rifles, to prevent the scope bases screws from shearing off.....a gunsmith taps-out to a larger screw size, helping eliminate screw shear! My wife and I had this done to our hunting rifles.....an insurance measure! memtb

[Graybeard96]

I realize that you’ve already purchased a replacement screw ($$$’s), I also have never heard of one shearing off. Not knowing the exact design of the screw area, I have a thought. Often, on very heavy recoil rifles, to prevent the scope bases screws from shearing off.....a gunsmith taps-out to a larger screw size, helping eliminate screw shear! My wife and I had this done to our hunting rifles.....an insurance measure! memtb

As the Ruger Repair Shop in Montreal/Canada mentioned, this sheering of the Screw happens sometimes. To be fair I will say they respondent by mailing me 2 replacement Studs (Screws) relative fast and now the Revolver is operational again. Unfortunately for now and before Winter sets in I wont have time to do extensive tests to see if the repair stands up. For those experiencing the same failure I would now recommend to have a Look what Colt did to there first Generation SAA (see my Post # 168) which is of course a bit more to expensive to manufacture but likely a far sturdier Ejector Shroud fastening system.

Thanks

[Thumbcocker]

Mrs. Thumbcocker just bought this shirt.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[Three44s]

A shirt made in heaven for all the X-Biden supporters. The bears will take the bait!

Three44s

[ranchman]

As the Ruger Repair Shop in Montreal/Canada mentioned, this sheering of the Screw happens sometimes. To be fair I will say they respondent by mailing me 2 replacement Studs (Screws) relative fast and now the Revolver is operational again. Unfortunately for now and before Winter sets in I wont have time to do extensive tests to see if the repair stands up. For those experiencing the same failure I would now recommend to have a Look what Colt did to there first Generation SAA (see my Post # 168) which is of course a bit more to expensive to manufacture but likely a far sturdier Ejector Shroud fastening system.

Thanks

Single action Colt barrels are absolutely better designed for handling recoil exertion than Ruger.. several smith's in the States have added a recoil pin underneath the ejector housings to assist in recoil absorption something like the Colt stud does. Some use solid pins, some roll pins, and the very best (in my opinion) have done a square lug (similar to a rifle actions recoil lug). I don't know of any smith's in Canada that would perform the job, but with some explanation and discussion on it, I can't see it being a job that's impossible for any competent gunsmith.

Hamilton Bowen (in his custom revolver book) talks of one done with a square lug, and shows a picture of another with a winchester rifle style ejector fabricated that has a band dovetailed into the barrel which the ejector slides through, then screws down into ... possibly the ultimate for retaining an ejector housing, but likely uber expensive. Myself, I think the square lug would be the most cost effective, and reliable. With 90-degree angles locking those housings in place, and the factory screw just for securing it down, those things wouldn't go anyplace.

The roll-pin option is probably most do-yourself friendly though, if a guy was in a pinch and handy enough with basic shop tools it can be done right at home and save yourself the turn-around times from slow gunsmiths. I've done a few simple roll-pin ones myself, and have had excellent success with them. It's surprising Ruger hasn't added that one (very worthwhile) step to their production line, ejector housings are a constant problem with them.

[Buzzard II]

.44 Magnum. I think a .454 or larger may recoil so much, a second shot may take too long.

[Graybeard96]

Single action Colt barrels are absolutely better designed for handling recoil exertion than Ruger.. several smith's in the States have added a recoil pin underneath the ejector housings to assist in recoil absorption something like the Colt stud does. Some use solid pins, some roll pins, and the very best (in my opinion) have done a square lug (similar to a rifle actions recoil lug). I don't know of any smith's in Canada that would perform the job, but with some explanation and discussion on it, I can't see it being a job that's impossible for any competent gunsmith.

Hamilton Bowen (in his custom revolver book) talks of one done with a square lug, and shows a picture of another with a winchester rifle style ejector fabricated that has a band dovetailed into the barrel which the ejector slides through, then screws down into ... possibly the ultimate for retaining an ejector housing, but likely uber expensive. Myself, I think the square lug would be the most cost effective, and reliable. With 90-degree angles locking those housings in place, and the factory screw just for securing it down, those things wouldn't go anyplace.

The roll-pin option is probably most do-yourself friendly though, if a guy was in a pinch and handy enough with basic shop tools it can be done right at home and save yourself the turn-around times from slow gunsmiths. I've done a few simple roll-pin ones myself, and have had excellent success with them. It's surprising Ruger hasn't added that one (very worthwhile) step to their production line, ejector housings are a constant problem with them.

Can't beat those old Colts, no surprise anyone in the old West wanted and bought one if the could afford the expense and make no mistake they where not cheep then either, the Cadillac of Revolvers.

While at first I had many reservations with the transfer Bar, I finally had to admit it was a better system especially for my work. While I also love the S&Wessons very much. The Stainless Steel SA Rugers I thought fit my requirements when it comes to my work which is often brutal physical Labor, dirty, lonely, wet or snowing and at times Dangerous because of the constant presence of Grizzly Bears. In short the Revolver must be as reliable as can be and be able to forego a day or two of babying/cleaning when totally exhausted back in Camp.

Thanks

[Old Caster]

Whatever you use against wild animals, you don't want to be lying on the ground being eaten while thinking, "at least I shot it and hurt it before it got me", so use the most powerful revolver you can efficiently handle which of course varies between the handler.

[Jtarm]

A little food for thought: I just read an article by Brian Pearce on reloading the .357 that included a vignette about a Fish & Game officer who got attacked by a 400-lb grizzly he was relocating.

The bear had him on the ground and four JHPs (didn’t say what weight) from his .357 at contact distance failed to penetrate the skull.

A fifth shot to the neck broke the spine.

[Castaway]

I’ve been following this thread since it started. My neighbor, a 20+ year Fl State Trooper heads off to Montana tomorrow to elk hunt with a bow. He asked me to load him some spicy 45 ACPs to carry in his Glock. I did, using a 190 grain Lee SWC and a max load of Unique, estimated at 1,000 + f/s. When he came down to function test, I gave him my 4 3/4” SAA loaded with an RCBS 270 gr (280 actual) SWC and showed him each bullet side by side, then the actual loaded cartridges. He fired his Glock and then the single action loaded with a full charge of black powder. Needless to say, he was impressed with the SAA, but declined my offer to borrow the pistol as he’s unexperienced with a single action. Definitely not my choice

[bigboredad]

It was easy to clean. I just took it down with a Dan Wesson barrel tool and cleaned it from the breach end. I could also set the barrel/cylinder gap to any space I wanted. I have a Freedom Arms 44 and it has too close a gap to do much shooting before it starts to drag. It is fine for hunting. The gap has little effect on accuracy only on velocity. Bowen uses Anaconda barrels now days, but back then he could easily get the shrouds and made barrels from Douglas blanks. I liked being able to interchange the front sights also. I thought I would like the McGivern bead, but the white insert sight became my favorite. I gave the gun to my nephew, He tells me how much he loves it nearly every time we talk.

I had a load for a 4.5 inch 45 bisley vaquero. I was just trying to find a load that would shoot *** without filing the sights. It wound up being a 350gr bullet with 9grn of unique. I was curious about how deep it would go into a 16inch diameter log. After shooting it 3 times and seeing dirt fly 3 times I put a target on the back side of the log as I knew there was no way I was missing and knew there was no way it was going thru the log you can imagine my surprise when I saw the hole in the target

Sent from my SM-T377V using Tapatalk

[Graybeard96]

A little food for thought: I just read an article by Brian Pearce on reloading the .357 that included a vignette about a Fish & Game officer who got attacked by a 400-lb grizzly he was relocating.

The bear had him on the ground and four JHPs (didn’t say what weight) from his .357 at contact distance failed to penetrate the skull.

A fifth shot to the neck broke the spine.

A 400 Lbs Boar (Male) Grizzly Bear is about 4-5 years old and just a bit bigger then a full grown well fed Black Bear. However this 400 pounder is exactly the kind of Bear which can give you the most trouble because they are searching for a Territory to call there own. In Mountainous Regions all the Sows and smaller Bears will be near Timberline and semi open Alpine where Life is tough. Once a Boar Grizzly gets bigger and more sure of himself he will try to establish himself in the River Bottoms where Life is good because of lots of Beavers (Candy to a Grizzly) Salmon in the Rivers and huge Berry Crops all the way from River Bottom to the Alpine. Unfortunately for him all good Grizzly Bear Territory are occupied by big Males which can weight up to a 1000 Lbs or even more. I am assuming the Weight based what a Horse weights. The real big Grizzly's are rarely the Problem and tend to disappear when they smell Man but there presence is evidenced by the Tracks they live behind in the Mud and Sandbars.
The Scull (Bone thickness) of any Grizzly Bear (I boiled the Meat off quite a few of them) is not really that thick. If those .357 Bullets did not penetrate into the Brain I say there is something else going on.

However my own Penetration Tests with my .44 Rem. Magnum Revolvers into Plywood surprised me insofar that my own Cast GC Bullets (Semi Wadcutter Type) penetrated just as well as the similar weight Jacketed Hollow Point Hornady's.

The .357 is the minimum we are allowed here as a Bear Defense Caliber. Myself I prefer the .44 but whatever you want to use make sure you know the Gun and be ready in a flash.

Thanks