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Thread: Cupped VS Non Cupped base.....PROS/CONS

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    190

    Cupped VS Non Cupped base.....PROS/CONS

    I'm sorry if this question has been asked previously but I couldn't find it in searches. I am looking into an adjustable nose pour "slick" mold to play with paper patching for my 45-2-7/8ths. I see there are choices on cup base or non. Is there an accuracy advantage to either?
    I want the adjustable for playing with different bullet lengths and weights.
    Thanks Gents

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,454
    I have a Steve Brooks cupped base adjustable PP mould at 443 dia. Also several flat based PP in other calibers. When patching tailless the cup base gives a much smoother squarer base/ you can see it when they are standing up.

    I wrap tailless leaving a small circle of the base showing in the center. This eliminates any "bulge" in the center from overlap of the fold under. On the flat base every Pleat of the paper is raised looking like a small fin. With my loads probably not much effect on accuracy since the patch comes of very close to the muzzle.

    I load with the following stack a .060 napa rubber fiber wad, grease cookie,playing card wad, 2 tracing paper wads then the patched bullet. I believe the cupped base allows a more true push on the bullets base and better exit from the muzzle

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Bent Ramrod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Southern Arizona
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    4,284
    I use KAL Tool&Die cup-base adjustable moulds and Brooks, Winchester, homemade, Ideal and Accurate flat-base moulds for paper-patch loads. Once I get the load down, the configuration doesn’t seem to matter. The little ring on the edge of the cup base is a convenient index for the extent to which the patch folds over the base, though.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master Don McDowell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Hell Gap Wy
    Posts
    6,094
    Both types can shoot well, but the adjustment screw on the cup base acts as a heat sync and getting good fill out on the base can be a problem.
    Long range rules, the rest drool.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    190
    Thanks Fellers.....I still have a few hundred Postell and Creedmore heavy weight GG to play with but I'm getting stuff for PP(as the budget allows). I bought a lot of toys when I was working (a lot of OT too) but now that I have retired I have time to play but not the budget. I have a C sharps 1874 in 45-2-7/8 that I had custom made back in 1999(34" HB-fancy wood-and French gray receiver). The GG are fairly accurate but I like to do it the old way....I prefer to fly fish and tie my own flies. Just something about getting food with something you made that satisfies me. We can't use cartridge rifles to hunt in the state of Illinois. But my brother lives in a much more....People (as in We The People)friendly. You can use any 45 or larger, vintage cartridge rifle, for Blackies and deer and hogs. The deer are tiny compared to our corn fed monsters. I choose to use a bow for deer though I might try my M629 4" in 44Mag. We also have no long range clubs close, only 300 yards, really high dues as well.
    Thanks again! Todd AKA Echo154

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check