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Thread: Ruger Hunter Super Blackhawk Stainless Steel - Ejector Rod Housing Screw sheered off.

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Ruger Hunter Super Blackhawk Stainless Steel - Ejector Rod Housing Screw sheered off.

    Ruger Hunter Super Blackhawk Stainless Steel - Ejector Rod Housing Screw sheered off.

    My Ruger Revolver Super Blackhawk in Stainless Steel Cal. .44 Rem. Magnum sheered the Ejector Rod housing Screw off during shooting. Last week I noticed the Screw was loose so I retightened within reason. The Tread end is still stuck in the hole and needs to come out before a new Housing Screw can be installed. Hopefully I can get one from Ruger.

    I purchased this Gun new around 2006. I am assuming there is no longer any Warranty on it.

    Just talked to a Gunsmith he said this problem is not uncommon. He says the Stuck Stud has to be machined out which would cost me about 100.** Shipping both ways would probably cost me another 100.** Gunsmith says he is 6 month behind.

    I am inclined to attempt to get the Stud out myself, mainly because I don't want to wait 6 Month which we all know could turn into a year. I do have a Milling Machine but I am only a Hobby Machinist.

    Any advise / pointers much appreciated.

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    fivegunner's Avatar
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    I think you should call Ruger. I bet they would make you happy.

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    Boolit Master Thumbcocker's Avatar
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    +1

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  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Slow and careful!

    You can do it with a drill press and an extractor bit too. Extractor bits are threaded backwards, so you turn the drill the reverse direction, which makes the bit bite in and catch, and when you keep turning it it backs out the stud. I'd turn the bit manually, though, most drill presses don't go slow enough for this kind of stuff. You want to go SLOW.

    The main thing is to build a good jig to hold your work solidly in place. It's a pretty small screw, and you need to be right in the middle and in line with the screw.

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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Had that happen...call Ruger and send it back. Yiou will have to pay an expensive shipping charge to send to them. They will most likely rebarrel it, as they did with mine. Seems that the screw comes loose; if you don't notice it, eventually it will break off or certain owners constantly retighten it and that creates a fracture. Best to take it out, degrease, & Lock-tite it.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    as a non professional machinist myself ive removed broken screws with high quality cobalt left handed screw machine length drill bits from mscdirect. the secret sauce for me I think was center punching before trying drill bit so drill bit won't walk.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    A Speed Out set is a handy tool to have. Four sizes of left hand drill bits and extractors.

    I have a screw I need to use it on this afternoon.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by fivegunner View Post
    I think you should call Ruger. I bet they would make you happy.
    +2 At least give them a call before you do anything drastic. I last year I sent in a 40+ year old MK II that had some issues, and had it back in 2 weeks. Stand up company.

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    I would be shocked if Ruger didn't fix you up for no charge (other than shipping it to them).
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanmattes View Post
    Slow and careful!

    You can do it with a drill press and an extractor bit too. Extractor bits are threaded backwards, so you turn the drill the reverse direction, which makes the bit bite in and catch, and when you keep turning it it backs out the stud. I'd turn the bit manually, though, most drill presses don't go slow enough for this kind of stuff. You want to go SLOW.

    The main thing is to build a good jig to hold your work solidly in place. It's a pretty small screw, and you need to be right in the middle and in line with the screw.

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    Thank you very much, that sound like a good path to take.
    I am sure I can hold the Barrel securely in the Milling Vice, find exact center and perhaps use an endmill first to create a Pilot hole to prevent the extractor bit from wandering of center. And as you suggested I will turn the Bit with a Handwrench.

    I love to sent it back to Ruger but there Repair Depot is across the Country in Montreal and return shipping would probably tack another 100 Bucks to the Repair because in Canada Ruger Warranty expires after one year I was told.

    Thanks again

    GB

  11. #11
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    Thanks to everybody for there suggestions. I am still Eyeballing this thing and feeling sorry for myself. As some suggested before I do anything I will try to contact Ruger directly to see if and what they could do for me. For the benefit CB Members I will update here so the next one with the same problem knows what will happen especially here in Canada.

    Cheers

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy alfadan's Avatar
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    Sounds like you have some machining ability, have any left hand drill bits? Mill it flat and a lh bit should grab and screw it out.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfadan View Post
    Sounds like you have some machining ability, have any left hand drill bits? Mill it flat and a lh bit should grab and screw it out.
    Nope,
    cant say I have left hand Drill bits on Hand, never used any. If it comes to it that I have to Buy some, which ones are recommend drilling into the remains of the Stainless Steel Stut ?

    Cheers

  14. #14
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    This is a relatively common occurrence, and Ruger normally repairs it for free (less shipping). If you're in tight with a local FFL, see if he'll ship it by Priority Mail for you. That should run around $30 or so. Ruger technically has no written warranty on their guns, but they typically do stand behind them.
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  15. #15
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    Yea, Ruger has no warranty, they just stand behind their products. I bought an early Bearcat. It had been stored in a leather holster near damp, it ate the finish. I sent it to Ruger and they said it was unsafe and offered me a free replacement, the whole deal took 2 weeks. They are a stand up company!
    ,Good luck, Tim

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    No idea what the laws are like for you, Graybeard. Is it possible to take the gun into the US and have a US FFL ship it for you and then you take it back to Canada once repaired? Can a Canadian dealer ship it?

    If you decide to do it yourself: When I've had difficult screw removals I would start the removal hole with a center cutting carbide end mill, just to give a flat bottomed pocket to start. That keeps the bit from wandering.
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    one bit of advice once you get it out and replaced. I ALWAYS carry a screw driver when im shooting blackhawks. All the screws tend to loosen after a few hundred rounds. I dont like locktiting them because then you can disassemble them easily. but dont feel to bad. I dont know of anyone that shoots ALOT of ammo through a blackhawk that hasnt had a ejector housing go flying. Ive even lost a couple. When most custom gunsmiths build a ruger they use a locking base pin and put a dowel in the barrel that fits in a hole they drill in the housing to keep them from shearing to housing screw. On big guns like the linebaughs you can even shear off a screw thats tight.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lloyd Smale View Post
    one bit of advice once you get it out and replaced. I ALWAYS carry a screw driver when im shooting blackhawks. All the screws tend to loosen after a few hundred rounds. I dont like locktiting them because then you can disassemble them easily. but dont feel to bad. I dont know of anyone that shoots ALOT of ammo through a blackhawk that hasnt had a ejector housing go flying. Ive even lost a couple. When most custom gunsmiths build a ruger they use a locking base pin and put a dowel in the barrel that fits in a hole they drill in the housing to keep them from shearing to housing screw. On big guns like the linebaughs you can even shear off a screw thats tight.
    I have come close to losing it but caught it in time. I check all screws on my Blackhawk and SBH every time I clean them.

    I have a LCP I bought used. Cleaning it one day and notice the slide rail on the frame split. Called Ruger and they sent me a prepaid return label. About a week later I got a call that the gun was not repairable and they would be replacing it free of charge other then FFL fees and asked who they should send it to.

    Also, if you have any after market parts on the gun replace them with the originals if you still have them. Ruger has a tendency of returning their guns to factory specs.
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  19. #19
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    When you call Ruger, ask if they will send you a pre-paid shipping box. I have heard sometimes they will pay for shipping.

    As far as losing an ejector housing, I have over 10K rounds thru my mid-70's Super blackhawk without any problems(now that I have said that, it will happen!!).

  20. #20
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    Ruger may/will pay postage both ways. Friend of mine had the same problem solved it with red Loctite. Ruger is a stand up company call them before you try any diy repairs.

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