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Thread: Ruger Hunter Super Blackhawk Stainless Steel - Ejector Rod Housing Screw sheered off.

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Taylor View Post
    Homeland security changed the law after 9-11 and I can't send any gun parts to Canada. Got in a bit of trouble when a customer sent a rifle down. He had checked with ATF and the State dept. and they said no problem on shipping it to me but they didn't tell him I couldn't send it back. I got in all kind of trouble for trying.
    I understand Ruger can and surly does send Guns & Gun parts to Canada regularly and of course by following all current US Export restrictions. However the Fact that there Canadian Repair Facility is out of Stock of such small Item which they know has failed in the past makes me wonder.

    Thank,s for letting me know, I guess I just have to make one up myself !

    Thank you !

  2. #42
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Graybeard96 View Post
    I understand Ruger can and surly does send Guns & Gun parts to Canada regularly and of course by following all current US Export restrictions. However the Fact that there Canadian Repair Facility is out of Stock of such small Item which they know has failed in the past makes me wonder.

    Thank,s for letting me know, I guess I just have to make one up myself !

    Thank you !
    I could send things if I paid for the special license, $2,250 a year. It's all about money.

  3. #43
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfadan View Post
    I think my set is Horrible Freight. Just used them a couple times for "rough service" like this.
    I would never ever try harbor freight drills on anything I cared about.
    like I posted earlier, MSCdirect is a great source for top quality and wide variety and sometime they put stuff on clearance for next to nothing as they close stores down and are going all in with online.
    some brands are Chicago Latrobe , guhring, Cleveland, dormer, ma ford, PTD. left hand, cobalt, screw machine length drill bit.
    if you have a mill, and your going to try and fallen broken screw surface, get a high quality cobalt left hand end mill

  4. #44
    Boolit Master
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    good quality cobalt cuts stainless well and is not brittle like carbide. screw machine length is shorter and less likely to flex.

  5. #45
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    And now the Good news.

    Yesterday "Snapshot" emailed an Invoice for 1 (one Screw). I replied please send 2 Screws as I had originally requested and adjust Invoice accordingly. The Screws are cheap but the Shipping is almost 18 Bucks. Works for me not spending a bunch of time making a Screw.

    So last night I managed to take the remainder of the Screw out and she came out much easier as I expected.

    A) Clamped Revolver securely less Cylinder into adjustable Angle Vice padded with a 1/16" Plastic.
    B) Adjusted Angle so that the surface of the remaining Screw was now Level.
    C) With a very sharp Center Punch I punched carefully a Point just inside where I imagined the Threads end.
    D) With a sharp but much thinner and longer Center punch Point in the Hole Center Punch in a 45 degree angle and tapping with a very light Hammer the Screw started immediately turning and came out no damage on the Barrel whatsoever, "Haleluya".

    Doing some measuring after.

    Debt of Screw hole---------.103 inch
    Barrel Wall thickness------.180
    Length of the broken piece from the Stut-----.087

    Looks like there are only 3 Threads for a intact Screw to fasten the Ejector Housing to the Barrel.

    Anyways, I am glad this piece is out and ready to put a new Stut in as soon I have her and this Time will Locktite her as some suggested and will talk to Gunsmith about installing a Lug against the Ejector Housing.

    Thank,s to all for Ideas & helpful suggestions !

    Cheers

  6. #46
    Boolit Buddy
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    Well it actually gets even Funnier,

    Snapshot just emailed me telling me they made a Mistake in there original Invoice but will sent 2 Screws shipping includet for $ 30.45 which I just paid by EMT.

    Lets hope the Screws show up soon or better at all and they don't change there mind again and want US Dollars in the same amount !

    Cheers

  7. #47
    Boolit Master
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    Blind hole and if screw is not bottomed I would try a VERY sharp pointed punch at a 45 degree angle near edge in CCW direction with very very light taps with a small hammer. Get it moving until it can be grabbed by a small set of tweezers or flush cutters and removed. If and when successful confirm no bind created with hole alignment on ejector housing, confirm screw size and use correct torque value for that hardware and clean and 242 on assembly.

  8. #48
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    Glad to see you got the broken piece out & new screws on the way. Don't use a "permanent" Loctite when you re-install things. If so, breaking off another one could get very troublesome.

    One thing I've done quite often on any Ruger screws that decide to back out, INCLUDING the ERH screw. I take a piece of fishing line, insert it in the hole to the bottom of the threads. I then insert the screw,, and tighten. The tail of the fishing line is heated with a lighter to remove the piece. The nylon fishing line acts as a "nyloc" type of holder.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by contender1 View Post
    Glad to see you got the broken piece out & new screws on the way. Don't use a "permanent" Loctite when you re-install things. If so, breaking off another one could get very troublesome.

    One thing I've done quite often on any Ruger screws that decide to back out, INCLUDING the ERH screw. I take a piece of fishing line, insert it in the hole to the bottom of the threads. I then insert the screw,, and tighten. The tail of the fishing line is heated with a lighter to remove the piece. The nylon fishing line acts as a "nyloc" type of holder.

    A well experienced Gunsmith suggested using Blue Loctite on the Screw and I am leaning towards taking his advice. However I should mention I been looking at this Screw from 23 or more angles and measuring and measuring and are 90% sure she was not loose when she broke. Material seems to be SS 304 (magnetic) which is quite tough as we know, but there is of course always the possibility the Screw had faulty material.

    Last night I had this perhaps dumb Idea why not Glue the Ejector Housing full length to the Barrel before finish fastening with the Screw. If the Ejector Housing stays Glued put when shooting on the Range a Box or two, I would assume the darn thing stays on the Gun when the Revolver gets only carried in the Bush around in its Holster, unlikely getting fired. I will check each time before I head out for work.

    Thanks
    Last edited by Graybeard96; 08-21-2021 at 12:11 AM.

  10. #50
    Boolit Mold
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    Enough Ruger Customer Service banter on this thread, I thought I would share my recent experience...
    Bought a used bisley 480 and previous owner had butchered the throats trying a bubba kitchen table gunsmith throat reaming job. Dealer offered me my money back, but based on others' experience, I thought I'd roll the dice with Ruger CS because the revolver was in great shape other than that and I was happy with the (inflated) price I'd paid. So I called Ruger, they told me it'd be $30 for pp shipping label because it was older than a year. Started seeing email notifications and got my revolver back at my front door 11 days later with a new cylinder fitted and they polished the few small scratches out. They also worked on the ejector housing, it was a little rough in operation. No charge for the shipping and no other charges! They have my business!

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9412765BRENT View Post
    Enough Ruger Customer Service banter on this thread, I thought I would share my recent experience...
    Bought a used bisley 480 and previous owner had butchered the throats trying a bubba kitchen table gunsmith throat reaming job. Dealer offered me my money back, but based on others' experience, I thought I'd roll the dice with Ruger CS because the revolver was in great shape other than that and I was happy with the (inflated) price I'd paid. So I called Ruger, they told me it'd be $30 for pp shipping label because it was older than a year. Started seeing email notifications and got my revolver back at my front door 11 days later with a new cylinder fitted and they polished the few small scratches out. They also worked on the ejector housing, it was a little rough in operation. No charge for the shipping and no other charges! They have my business!
    Why do people do such stupid ****? I do ream the chambers for the 480 but only to remove the sharp 45 degree step and replace it with a 6 degree 30min chamfer so it doesn't cut rings out of cast boolits and leave them in the chamber until they interfere with chambering new ammo. All of the throats on these cylinders that are the last few years production have .478" throats which is perfect, earlier production guns I hone the throats to .478" before cutting the chamfer.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check