Titan ReloadingLoad DataMidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading Everything
WidenersRepackboxInline FabricationLee Precision
RotoMetals2
Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: paper patching questions

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    38

    paper patching questions

    I am new to paper patching and so far I haven't found success. I only took it up because I am getting leading with grease groove bullets. My bore is tapered so I am confused as to what dia. bullet I should use. I am shooting a double bbl. rifle and am concerned about a bullet backing out so I am using a tight taper crimp. I found a patch downrange that appeared to be separated at the case mouth position so I think the taper crimp is to blame. I am loading ( for a .450 3-1/4" BPE) fed 215 primer, 120 grs. swiss 1-1/2fg, bee foundation wax, 1/4"+- spg grease cookie, a fiber disc, a wax paper disc and a .451" dia cup base bullet with two wraps of 0.002" vellum, lubed with case sizing lub. Seated just off the lands. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    elk hunter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Central Oregon
    Posts
    1,540
    Just some random thoughts.

    I've not had any leading with grease groove bullets in my BPE rifles but, I only shoot nitro for black loads in mine. I've shot some paper patch bullets and they performed OK but I prefer the greased ones as they are quicker and easier to use. I would think that a taper crimp, like you are using, would be preferable to a rolled crimp for patched bullets. The few original British loads that I've examined have used a stab crimp on either type of lead bullets. Regarding the leading you're getting with greased bullets varied thoughts come to mind; If the bullets are too hard and undersized you may be getting flame cutting at the base but your wad column should be preventing that. Too soft an alloy may also cause leading. The next thing is the bullet lube, there must be enough to provide lubrication all the way to the muzzle. Some modern bullets styles have very small lube grooves. Lastly, many of the BPE rifles were used well into the smokeless era with nitro for black loads loaded with cordite. Cordite tends to be very erosive to the soft steels of the black powder rifles and can cause a lot of wear and roughness especially in the throat area. The chlorate primers can also cause rusting and subsequent pitting of the bore. Any bore roughness will strip lead from a bullet.

    Again, these are just some random thoughts, I hope they are in some way helpful.

    Enjoy your rifle. Post pictures.
    BIG OR SMALL I LIKE THEM ALL, 577 TO 22 HORNET.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master Don McDowell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Hell Gap Wy
    Posts
    6,094
    Crimp of any kind is a death knell to paper patch bullets. Neck tension alone will help eliminate leading and increase accuracy. Also a slight chamfer on the inside of the case mouth.
    If the bullet is properly patched and cast from a suitable alloy the exposed lead should not touch the bore.
    Might want to change the case lube on the exposed paper to jojoba oil or Rooster paper patch lube.
    If you seat the bullets out just far enough they will engage the lands the bullet backing out won't be a problem, but you will need to test fire a few to see if you can load them in a fouled chamber. Ideal would be a bullet patched diameter to be slightly under the bore diameter at the chamber.
    Long range rules, the rest drool.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Lead pot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    3,577
    Your concern is justified for the bullet n the second barrel jumping out.

    If you can find some original cartridges for that .450-3-1/4" express you might see a dimple crimp holding that bullet in. It was common for those express rounds fired with lead bullets using the dimple.
    The dimple crimp is sort of like the electricians use crimping conduct couplings. A tight taper crimp rill cut and even strip[ the patch at the case mouth.

    You might use a taper crimp die to reduce the case neck and using a slight flair to open it enough so you can seat the bullet and use that taper crimp if you need to seat the round just putting slight pressure reducing the flair enough to seat the round.
    Pushing that slight flair back down will also put pressure on the bullet shank but it's won't cut the patch if the sharp case mouth don't get crimped. It will be a snug but smooth release.

    I had a .410 double I used cutdown 3 1/3" Bell brass for shells and loaded bullets for it. I had the issue you mentioned in the unfired barrel.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check