ADvertise hereTitan ReloadingMidSouth Shooters SupplyLee Precision
Reloading UKRepackboxInline FabricationRotoMetals2

Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Adding a Sprue Plate Handle to Accurate Molds

  1. #1
    Curious Caster
    Daekar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Virginia, USA
    Posts
    254

    Adding a Sprue Plate Handle to Accurate Molds

    So I've got two 4-cavity Accurate molds and so far I have been whacking the sprue plate with a wooden mallet every time. It works but it feels... like it might be less than optimal.

    I made the assumption that they would be compatible with Lee sprue plate handles since they also use the regular Lee handles, and I managed to find some for sale:
    https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-p...od-handle-34x5
    https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-p...56-sprue-lever

    They seem to sell quite a few "service parts" for Lee molds as well, including bolts and such. Does anybody know what bolts I need to buy?
    I'm a big fan of data-driven decisions. You want to make me smile, show me a spreadsheet! Extra points for graphs and best-fit predictive equations.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Butler, MO
    Posts
    7,771
    I have never cast with an Accurate mold, but I have with Lyman four cavity molds, so here goes.

    Next time you have your mold up to temp, try twisting the sprueplate with a gloved hand. I use plain old cheap leather driving gloves when I cast. You aren't holding the sprue plate or mold long enough for the heat to transfer through and burn you.

    This technique works very well with two cavity molds, and it did okay with the one four cavity I tried it with.

    You can't start twisting on a cold mold, but once it is hot enough it will speed your production immensely. I usually cut the sprue as within a second or two of the sprue puddle changing color.

    I'm not the only one doing this, there was quite a discussion about it several years ago. It may work for you, it may not. I don't like hitting my molds either.

    Good Luck,

    Robert

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    349
    Last edited by Valley-Shooter; 07-25-2021 at 11:11 PM. Reason: Wrong stuff

  4. #4
    Curious Caster
    Daekar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Virginia, USA
    Posts
    254
    Quote Originally Posted by Valley-Shooter View Post
    Thank you, that's exactly the information I was needing! Now I just need to wait for the sprue pivot bolt to be in-stock somewhere...
    I'm a big fan of data-driven decisions. You want to make me smile, show me a spreadsheet! Extra points for graphs and best-fit predictive equations.

  5. #5
    Curious Caster
    Daekar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Virginia, USA
    Posts
    254
    Quote Originally Posted by Mk42gunner View Post
    I have never cast with an Accurate mold, but I have with Lyman four cavity molds, so here goes.

    Next time you have your mold up to temp, try twisting the sprueplate with a gloved hand. I use plain old cheap leather driving gloves when I cast. You aren't holding the sprue plate or mold long enough for the heat to transfer through and burn you.

    This technique works very well with two cavity molds, and it did okay with the one four cavity I tried it with.

    You can't start twisting on a cold mold, but once it is hot enough it will speed your production immensely. I usually cut the sprue as within a second or two of the sprue puddle changing color.

    I'm not the only one doing this, there was quite a discussion about it several years ago. It may work for you, it may not. I don't like hitting my molds either.

    Good Luck,

    Robert
    I will give that a shot, I cast in gloves too. I have never given that little time for the sprue to solidify, but I'm certainly not against trying that technique. Thank you for the tip.
    I'm a big fan of data-driven decisions. You want to make me smile, show me a spreadsheet! Extra points for graphs and best-fit predictive equations.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    NE Oklahoma
    Posts
    493
    I would like to see a pic if you put this lever on!

    Got me to thinking I might do this to one of my NOE’s.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
    zarrinvz24's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Heart of the Lowcountry, SC
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by Daekar View Post
    So I've got two 4-cavity Accurate molds and so far I have been whacking the sprue plate with a wooden mallet every time. It works but it feels... like it might be less than optimal.

    I made the assumption that they would be compatible with Lee sprue plate handles since they also use the regular Lee handles, and I managed to find some for sale:
    https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-p...od-handle-34x5
    https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-p...56-sprue-lever

    They seem to sell quite a few "service parts" for Lee molds as well, including bolts and such. Does anybody know what bolts I need to buy?
    I've found wooden hammers to be too hard. I switched over to a rawhide mallet and it made it so much more enjoyable.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,682
    Ove gloves work good too.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check