For Browning Auto 5 experts

[Patrick L]

Had anyone successfully shortened the recoil spring in a Browning Auto 5 in order to get reliable function with very light loads? For the last several years I have been very enamored with 12 gauge 3/4 oz skeet loads. Obviously they work fine in the OU, and they even cycle the 1100 fine. But they're simply too light for my Light 12 A5. I have ordered a new recoil spring, my thought was to clip maybe 1/2 a coil at a time until she cycles.

Anyone ever try this? How did it go?

[megasupermagnum]

Have you played with the setup as it is? Make sure you have the light load friction ring setup, and clean and lube the mag tube with a 20 or 30 weight motor oil, not thin gun oil. Get a good coating on oil on there, not just a thin wipe. It shouldn't be dripping, but you should be able to leave a fingerprint.

[turtlezx]

got mine to work with 3/4oz but was a pisser to do
did it just to say i could more than anything i left the stock spring alone and removed the friction ring and reversable ring for heavy and light loads
then worked up powder charge just hot enough to get it to cycle
worked well shot about 1k rds thru it that way

was a fellow nyer utica ,vernon

[Patrick L]

So you just totally removed the bronze friction piece and spring, as well as the beveled ring that normally rests against the receiver? Didn't think of that, it would be worth a try.

I load these powderpuffs by the thousand, they are great in fixed breech guns, and like I said even my 1100 cycles them fine, but the again that's a gas gun. I just don't want to have to load A5 specific shells.

BTW, I'm not talking experimental loads or anything like that. These are sanctioned, published loads. Its just that the A5 was designed in a different day and age, and shotgun shells just were not that light back then

[NyFirefighter357]

I can never remember the adjustments for those rings:

https://www.shotgunworld.com/images/...ISASSEMBLY.pdf

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/fiel...ice_manual.pdf

[Patrick L]

Guys thanks, but the rings are most definitely set correctly for light loads. I'm looking to shoot even lighter loads than the light setting normally allows.

[turtlezx]

yes pat total removal

[megasupermagnum]

How does the spring fit on the magazine? There should be no dragging at all, only a slip fit.

[Cap'n Morgan]

I removed the friction ring, and turned a new, non-split low ring from brass that matched the cone in the barrel and gave the spring a flat to rest against.

[Patrick L]

I'll give that a try. And Cap'n, that's a great idea to make that piece to maintain a flat surface, thank to you for that.

And, the replacement spring is already on the way, so if these ideas don't pan out I will then try my plan, namely clip a half coil and try, clip a a half coil and try, etc.

I really love these A5s even though they are not the "in" design these days. I have three, a Sweet 16, a magnum 20, and now this Light 12, all Belgian. The story behind my acquiring this Light 12 is amazing, but that will have to wait for another time and post

[lesharris]

Friction ring placement

[Patrick L]

Amazing. Absolutely amazing.

[Buck Shot]

Big A5 fan here, too.
Never tried cutting any springs, though I've put many hundreds of pounds of lead down my A5s on various skeet fields over the years.
I'd sure want to make sure I had a spare recoil spring before I started cutting on mine, though.
I think I'd also be tempted to try to find a spring that has the same dimensions, just thinner wire and less compressive strength...did you try the usual places (Brownells, etc) to see if they had something like that? (Or maybe even the folks in Utah?)
After my Dad gave me his old Sweet 16, I sent it off to Browning to get them to lengthen the chamber to 2-3/4"...they did a nice job for a reasonable price...

[Patrick L]

Buckshot,

No worries, TWO spares are on the way, and any cutting I attempt will be on one of these, not the original.

I don't know of anyone now offering reduced power springs, only factory spec replacement ones. I would not be surprised to learn they were offerrd "back in the day", then again back in the day men were men, shot was cheap, and you just shot skeet with 1 1/8 oz loads! Not so anymore, any of it.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Do what Capt said !!!,,, Also if you are going to cut the spring cut the old one and keep the new one for when you convert the gun back to normal ammo.

Also Amsoil 20/50" Racing Oil is the hot tip for all gun lubes. 1 qt will last forever.

Randy

[gwpercle]

If you are going to cut springs ... buy two springs to work on ...
One spring you keep cutting untill ... OOP'S Too Far .
Then cut the other spring to pre-oop's .
I always save the original springs and cut on/modify the replacements .
The old stuff is better .
Gary

[too many things]

take the black ring off the brass piece . make sure you dont get a hot load . if you do it will damage the receiver
i use trans fluid for lube

[Patrick L]

OK tried it yesterday with the friction piece and ring totally removed. Still no dice.

I clipped a coil off of a new spring, am heading to the range today. Will bring my tools and a few boxes of the desired reload. I will test fire, clip a coil, test fire, clip...until I get function.

Will keep you all posted.

[fecmech]

Rather than cutting coils you could grind the outside of the coils to make the coils thinner. I've done this on smaller springs to lighten them up and keep their full length. Just don't over heat it. Also maybe check with the guy at Wolf gunsprings there may be something out there with thinner wire that works.

[Patrick L]

Ok achieved success, sort of. I clipped a total of four coils, one at a time with a test fire between between clippings. I never did get my light 3/4 oz loads to function, but at 4 coils the 7/8 oz ones did. I'm going to leave it at that. The reason I don't want to clip any more is that at four coils removed, the barrel protrudes from the action only about 1/4 inch. If I clip any more the barrel will not bear against the forearm at all.

7/8 is light enough I guess.