So I took apart the seating die and found out my issue of the rounded off edges. I want them babies SHARP! So I have an idea. I'm going to take the insert to Lowes and hopefully I can find a flat washer that I can glue over the concaved area where the bullet is pushed on. You can clearly see this is what is causing that.
Good start man, way way better than my ugly first bullets.
What direction will your load workup begin in?
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Shoot 'em! A couple wrinkles as explained above, but otherwise lookin' good. I started with a single cavity mold for my 44 Magnums and the old saw, practice, practice, practice is the key. It's often said the only way to learn to cast bullets is to cast bullets. I don't water drop and and just watch the finish on the bullets as they drop out of the mold to keep track of temperatures...
So, plug in the pot, gather a bunch of ingots and get busy...
My Anchor is holding fast!
Not sure. I need to figure out how you load for something that isn't in the book. None of my reloading manuals have a 170gr lead loading.Originally Posted by 358429
Use hot glue on your seater and make it flat.
This is the easiest way to go. Clean the punch, fill the cavity with hot glue, strike it off level with a straight edge and you are back to loading.
”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn
My Straight Shooters thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter
The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks
"How do you change out the seating die? And where do you buy the correct ones?"
What brand of reloading dies are you using? This is some basic stuff: The first reloading die resizes the fired brass back to factory spec. so that it can be reloaded. Either the first or the second die knocks out the spent primer. The second die generally expands the case neck to accept the new bullet, and gently bells the mouth of the case to make seating the bullet easier. The third die seats the bullet and crimps the mouth of the case. The thing inside that third die which pushes the bullet into the case is the seating stem (sometimes called a seating punch). Reloading dies for revolver cartridges usually come with two types of seating stems; one for round nosed bullets and one for semi-wadcutters.
To change the seating stem just screw it all the way into the die body until it falls out the bottom. To install a different seating stem just push it into the die body and hold it with a finger as you reach through the hole in the top of the die body with a small screwdriver and screw the stem into the die. You can get new seating stems (and most other die parts) from the company that made your reloading dies. I like RCBS reloading equipment because they're dies and molds are guaranteed for life. If your using RCBS dies and one of your seating stems is missing, just contact them and they will send you a new one.
Because your just starting out with this, ask any questions you want. There are so many knowledgeable people on this site that I learn new things here all the time.
Looks good! Very decent for a first go. Not to sound condescending, but you are lubing them right? I see a few have some deformation. Might want to warm the mold a bit more before you start casting. Just rest the mold on the top of the pot for a while.
This was done just as test fitting. Bullets have been removed from the brass now and will be remelted to try again. As far as lubing goes they will be powder coated
Attachment 286682
This from the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, 4th Edition. You should get a copy: it's worth it.
Just ordered a copy!
Great job. Something to look for in future castings. Compare each edge of the bands and boolit to the edges in the mould cavities. If it’s an extremely sharp edge in the mould cavity you want the finished boolit to mirror that. That’s how I got better. Most times when your edges are not filled out or sharp it’s one or two things. Either cold mould/mix or some tin/pewter is needed to help your mix. Those steel moulds love to be hot. But not too hot. haha! Myself I just ordered a Rossi 92 Lever in 45Colt. I’m going to master the RCBS 45 270 SAA mould. Keep casting.“This is the way.”
The only thing that I would say I noticed that I didn't like, was the end of the bullet where the sprue plate is the bullets did not fill completely there. Not sure whyGreat job. Something to look for in future castings. Compare each edge of the bands and boolit to the edges in the mould cavities. If it’s an extremely sharp edge in the mould cavity you want the finished boolit to mirror that. That’s how I got better. Most times when your edges are not filled out or sharp it’s one or two things. Either cold mould/mix or some tin/pewter is needed to help your mix. Those steel moulds love to be hot. But not too hot. haha! Myself I just ordered a Rossi 92 Lever in 45Colt. I’m going to master the RCBS 45 270 SAA mould. Keep casting.
Be sure and give a generous sprue on top. Also if you can let the pour cool just a little before cutting the sprue you’ll get a clean base when you cut it. Once you get temps right you can get a good groove going. I often cast 2 moulds alternating at the same time allowing the pour to cool just enough to get a clean cut.
What do you mean give a generous sprue?
The “puddle” on top of the mould.
Attachment 286687
Last edited by rustyshooter; 07-25-2021 at 09:47 PM.
Yea I did that.
I missed the part about you using Lee push through sizers, so disregard the bit about top punches. They are used in Lyman and RCBS sizers. You have found the culprit, glad others explained it.
It has been a long time since I had a set of Lee handgun dies apart and I couldn't describe it from memory.
As jim147 said, you can fill the round cavity with hotglue, or epoxy, then make it flat to help prevent the distortion.
In a perfect world, you could order another seating stem from Lee and grind it flat, maybe in a year or two things will be back to normal and parts and accessories will be readily available again.
I've never coated any boolits, one of these years I just may have to try it. Until then I will stick with lubing and sizing in the Lubamatic. I did recently start tumble lubing will BLL, so there is hope for me learning to do new tasks.
I had also heard about the 358429 being too long for GP-100's, but it fits in mine.
Keep up the good work,
Robert
"I had also heard about the 358429 being too long for GP-100's, but it fits in mine."
Its too long as 357 mag crimped in the top crimp for my smith model 28 same as a 27, OK in my model 19 and 586.
Was originally made for the 38 special and in that brass if fits everything 357 is only problematic in few guns as above.
Nice!!!
These links are on this website click on them to download free manuals.
Lyman's 3rd edition cast handbook. It has reloading data for your bullet
http://marvinstuart.com/firearm/Manu...-%20Reduce.pdf
Early lyman 44th manual (1967), this has data for your bullet. Even though it's from the 60's it is still very useful.
http://marvinstuart.com/firearm/Manu...---%201967.pdf
Lyman's 48th reloading handbook that had data for the bullet you cast along with other cast & jacketed bullets.
http://marvinstuart.com/firearm/Manu...%20-%20ocr.pdf
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