Remove barrel for parkerizing or rust bluing?

[JHeath]

Is it necessary to remove a barrel from a receiver when doing these finishes? I don't have a barrel vise or action wrench. I could probably fabricate the tools and remove the barrel but would rather leave well enough alone. It's a Brno/Persian 98 receiver with an ER Shaw barrel.

[Jedman]

I assume you want the action and the barrel refinished the same so no the barrel and action can stay together.

Jedman

[JHeath]

Thanks, Jedman. I wasn't sure if solution would reach the barrel threads, not get flushed out, and cause corrosion.

[downzero]

I would plug the barrel and go for it. I wouldn't want the chamber parkerized!

[nicholst55]

I would plug the barrel and go for it. I wouldn't want the chamber parkerized!

Parkerizing actually etches the metal, so you should plug both chamber and muzzle before hand.

[yovinny]

I plug bores for rust bluing,, but not for parkerizing.
If parkerizing hurts bores,, I cant tell by my shilen match barreled and parkerized quasi sniper/bench guns shooting 5rds into the .2-.3" range when I do my part.

[GregLaROCHE]

I’ve been wondering what to do to a gun that, unfortunately got some rust on the barrel while it was stored. I have considered rust bluing and wondered if I needed to plug the barrel. I thought I probably should.

[2152hq]

I've never plugged the bores for rust bluing. The bbl and parts will only be subjected to boiling water.
Wipe out the bore with a clean dry patch after the boiling cycle if you want to, but I don't even do that.
Never any problems in 50yrs of doing rust bluing, both slow/cold rust and express rust blue.

As far as separating the bbl from the frame. I like to separate the two pieces when rust bluing.
The reason is that old oil and grease can be and usually has been placed on the threads of either one or both parts when they were assembled.

That lube in itself doesn't do any harm f it stays inside and in place.
But during the boiling cycles of the rust bluing process, the metal gets to at least the 212F* temp.
Hotter if Express bluing and you use a heat source to warm the metal before application of the rusting soln. Many use a propane torch and take the metal temp way past 200F. It's very hard to judge the temp that way.
That can soften and liquify that old lube in there and it can start to run out of the bbl/frame joint and out onto your new finish.

It's more of a problem when doing Express Rust Blue than Cold/Slow rust blue. The former is a continuous process where the metal is kept at that hot temp through out the bluing as the parts go thu application of the rusting soln and then immediately into the boiling water. Then out to be carded and quickly another coating of the soln added while still hot.

Cold rust bluing, the parts get heated up for 10minutes+ a cycle then cool down to be carded, then soln applied cold and rust on their own.

But both can leave you with damage to the new finish from oil oozing out onto it. An unblued ring around the bbl/frame joint is not un-usual. Also where a pin or screw has not been removed but now has given up some old lube in the threads or tight fitting hole.

It's a pain to have a real nice job spoiled by this, so I routinely disassemble the parts.
It doesn't mean that every assembly would give you such problems. But I've had enough of them do so over the yrs that it's just easier to do it disassembled and not have the concern about it.

Parkerizing I don't do. So I can't comment on that as far as plugging the bore.

[waksupi]

I've never plugged the bores for rust bluing. The bbl and parts will only be subjected to boiling water.
Wipe out the bore with a clean dry patch after the boiling cycle if you want to, but I don't even do that.
Never any problems in 50yrs of doing rust bluing, both slow/cold rust and express rust blue.

As far as separating the bbl from the frame. I like to separate the two pieces when rust bluing.
The reason is that old oil and grease can be and usually has been placed on the threads of either one or both parts when they were assembled.

That lube in itself doesn't do any harm f it stays inside and in place.
But during the boiling cycles of the rust bluing process, the metal gets to at least the 212F* temp.
Hotter if Express bluing and you use a heat source to warm the metal before application of the rusting soln. Many use a propane torch and take the metal temp way past 200F. It's very hard to judge the temp that way.
That can soften and liquify that old lube in there and it can start to run out of the bbl/frame joint and out onto your new finish.

It's more of a problem when doing Express Rust Blue than Cold/Slow rust blue. The former is a continuous process where the metal is kept at that hot temp through out the bluing as the parts go thu application of the rusting soln and then immediately into the boiling water. Then out to be carded and quickly another coating of the soln added while still hot.

Cold rust bluing, the parts get heated up for 10minutes+ a cycle then cool down to be carded, then soln applied cold and rust on their own.

But both can leave you with damage to the new finish from oil oozing out onto it. An unblued ring around the bbl/frame joint is not un-usual. Also where a pin or screw has not been removed but now has given up some old lube in the threads or tight fitting hole.

It's a pain to have a real nice job spoiled by this, so I routinely disassemble the parts.
It doesn't mean that every assembly would give you such problems. But I've had enough of them do so over the yrs that it's just easier to do it disassembled and not have the concern about it.

Parkerizing I don't do. So I can't comment on that as far as plugging the bore.

I soak an action in a PVC tube with lacquer thinner, and have no problems with oil bleed

[downzero]

Parkerizing actually etches the metal, so you should plug both chamber and muzzle before hand.

Uh, yeah. Of course you have to plug BOTH SIDES for plugging to work.