Wanting to setup my MP mold today. Never had one so please help

[kevin c]

My aluminum molds, including the many MP versions I have, get solvent cleaned to remove any cutting oils and go right to work, but we're talking about brass molds here, right (at least it's my impression that all of Miha's HP molds are brass)? I only have two brass molds in calibers I don't shoot often so they haven't been used yet, but, correct me if I'm wrong, I thought the patina on brass molds is helpful in preventing tinning.

[Forrest r]

I have owned/used over 20 mp molds & have yet to "break in" any of them. I've always simply cleaned them with dawn dish soap, put the pins in (if the mold uses pins) and pre-heated them on a hot plate. Do the same thing with every brass mold, al mold, steel mold. When the alloys hot I take the mold off the hotplate and lube with synthetic 2-cycle oil and cast.

Some people like to season their brass molds & I'm glad they're taking the time to take care of their equipment as they see fit.

Myself I started using brass molds a long time ago & never did any "break in/heat cycling". Never had any issues with tinning either.

With these mihec molds try not to smear lead under the sprue plate. If you do fine steel wool is your friend with the mold hot lightly polish the smeared alloy off the bottom of the sprue plate. I like to put the 2-cycle oil on a q-tip and put an extremely light layer of lube on the bottom of every mold I cast with. If you do happen to get lead/alloy splatter on the mold faces a pencil is your friend with a hot mold. Keep the pencil sharp, don't push hard and remove any lead with the pencil tip.