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Thread: Wanting to setup my MP mold today. Never had one so please help

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    Wanting to setup my MP mold today. Never had one so please help

    So I read this https://www.mp-molds.com/tipstricks/...-point-moulds/

    I also read some threads on this site. One thing I did see which was a discrepancy was someone said to take the mold apart when you heat cycle it. I do plan to bake mine in the oven at 400 degrees. Do I take it apart or leave it together? Also the molds came with 4 different pin versions...So it says to have the pins inserted when you heat cycle it. Does it matter which pins?

    Also my mold did not come with any lube like it was suppose to. Can I use 2 stroke oil like in other molds?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master zymguy's Avatar
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    Sounds like your well informed , knowing what you do itll turn out . I'll tell ya what i do .
    I heat cycle the mold together.
    I heat cycle with the pins i think will stick the most ( usually penta) I use other pins without the heat cycle later doesn't seem to matter.
    I use synthetic 2 stroke oil.
    Get after it, itll be fine

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I hear cycle apart. As I understand the process (someone please correct me if I’m wrong) the point of heat cycling is to build the patina on the brass which is done with heat and oxygen. To me it makes sense to allow as much air to contact the faces of the mold as possible to allow oxygen to contact surface. I tried heat cycling with mold together once and only got the patina on the outside not the faces as needed, but as always YRMV.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StuBach View Post
    I hear cycle apart. As I understand the process (someone please correct me if I’m wrong) the point of heat cycling is to build the patina on the brass which is done with heat and oxygen. To me it makes sense to allow as much air to contact the faces of the mold as possible to allow oxygen to contact surface. I tried heat cycling with mold together once and only got the patina on the outside not the faces as needed, but as always YRMV.
    Also heat cycle the pins and inserts?

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Heat cycles for your brass mould is like seasoning a barrel. Some call it science, others call it nonsense. I made beautiful boolits without doing any of that. Preheat, fill and lube.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    I'm assuming you do not need to heat cycle "season" the inserts and pins. Currently I'm only heat cycling the brass cavities and top plate (not the screw, plate removed from mold). I did brake parts cleaner everything and wipe it down with a shop paper towel. Did not touch it with anything but the non lint shop paper towel (your fingers have oil on them).

    Will check on it at 8pm.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy Iwsbull's Avatar
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    I have done it both ways with M&p molds and other brands and I honestly cannot tell a difference the last 4 molds I bought were cleaned, dried and put to work.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I personally do not hear treat pins but instead clean really well and than I store the pins in a container with a couple of drops of MP mold Lube, shake to coat all pieces, than when ready to case put whatever pins in I desire.

    (You can for sure cast without seasoning and many have done this including me. I found the first session casting with unseasoned molds was a bit more frustrating and less productive, than come back the next time and things run smoother, third time it’s like greased lightning. Switched to Seasoning mold block by heat cycling half a dozen times and my first session with a new mold became greased lightning without all the frustration. I have small kids so every session at the pot is a gift so I can’t afford to waste them. 30 seconds x 6 times at the toaster oven is much easier to come by. YRMV)

    Key to using his molds in my experience is heat maintenance. A hot plate is incredibly helpful at getting mold and pins to temp and keeping it there. Than maintain a good cadence and don’t stop to admire your handiwork, if the bases are fully filled out drop them and keep moving. If you notice wrinkly bullets, toss back in, adjust temps of hot plate or alloy accordingly, and move on. If the pins cool too much you’ll have issues.

    Another tip, some have found that if a pin likes to stick to the bullet they can put some graphite on it from a graphite pencil. I’ve never done this but read others who have. If I have a pin set that’s an issue I take a couple light passes over a white wet stone and clean any burs that might be left from milling and never have an issue again. Not trying to hot off material, just kill any burs or ridges.

    I cast with several of his molds from a light 93gr 9mm bullet to a heavy 300gr 44mag and I have found the sweet spot for most in my pot is around 700-715deg alloy and Walmart hot plate set to medium.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master 44Blam's Avatar
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    It's like getting a Lego set those molds... There's like 150 pcs and a lot are optional.
    The design is actually really good. I really like mine and I make 44 mag boolits sometimes with it. Those are a labor of love though. I use the penta points and it is not easy to get that mold dropping perfect boolits. Most of my molds are forgiving - that one needs to be HOT but not too hot with hot lead but not too hot... It's like the wife of molds...

    I usually setup a pot with 10-12 lbs for that mold and switch after about 4 or 5 lbs...
    WWG1WGA

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    Well I'm on my 3rd heat cycle. Will probably do 1 or 2 more tomorrow. We will be making boolits Friday or Saturday

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy Helka's Avatar
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    I did the heat cycle 3 times fully closed with penta pins in. really nice patina coverage.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helka View Post
    I did the heat cycle 3 times fully closed with penta pins in. really nice patina coverage.
    I think I'm going to do 2 or 3 more additional heat cycles with the pins in now. Can 6 heat cycles hurt the mold? Common sense tells me no but I wanted to ask.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stopsign32v View Post
    I think I'm going to do 2 or 3 more additional heat cycles with the pins in now. Can 6 heat cycles hurt the mold? Common sense tells me no but I wanted to ask.
    You will be heat cycling it every time you use it. Heat cycle it as many times as you wish.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy AlHunt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stopsign32v View Post
    So I read this https://www.mp-molds.com/tipstricks/...-point-moulds/

    I also read some threads on this site. One thing I did see which was a discrepancy was someone said to take the mold apart when you heat cycle it. I do plan to bake mine in the oven at 400 degrees. Do I take it apart or leave it together? Also the molds came with 4 different pin versions...So it says to have the pins inserted when you heat cycle it. Does it matter which pins?

    Also my mold did not come with any lube like it was suppose to. Can I use 2 stroke oil like in other molds?
    For my 2 cents ... if the manufacturer is giving me the process, I'm going to do exactly that. That way, if I have a problem, I haven't introduced any variables and they can (I think) better help me.

    Yes, the 2 stroke oil will work fine.

    I'd bet you're going to love that mold.

    I have 1 MP mold, I followed the directions to the letter and it drops perfect bullets.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    So I have a question...We are talking about heat cycling (AKA patina)

    The mold today looks absolutely no different than when it was new. When I hear "patina" I think a different look. Should it look different?

  16. #16
    Boolit Bub
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    If I have to do all that crap to get a NEW bullet mold to function, they can take a leap! In 55 years of casting bullets, and reloading, I've NEVER had to do all that to get a mold to function. Think I'll stick with RCBS, LYMAN, or hell, even Lee molds before I would go to all that. Some of you fellows must have plenty of excess time on your hands, to have to do all that! Not this hoss! They can sell those molds to somebody besides me.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kreuzlover View Post
    If I have to do all that crap to get a NEW bullet mold to function, they can take a leap! In 55 years of casting bullets, and reloading, I've NEVER had to do all that to get a mold to function. Think I'll stick with RCBS, LYMAN, or hell, even Lee molds before I would go to all that. Some of you fellows must have plenty of excess time on your hands, to have to do all that! Not this hoss! They can sell those molds to somebody besides me.
    Glad you could contribute

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    StuBach's Avatar
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    Wanting to setup my MP mold today. Never had one so please help

    Quote Originally Posted by Stopsign32v View Post
    So I have a question...We are talking about heat cycling (AKA patina)

    The mold today looks absolutely no different than when it was new. When I hear "patina" I think a different look. Should it look different?
    You won’t notice the initial patina but if you were to compare a side by side new mold to heat cycled mold you’d see a difference in the tint. The new molds almost have a white brass color where, provided mold is clean and dry, after the first heat cycle you’ll start to see it darkening (had the luck to have two molds arrive within a week of each other so I tested this but sadly lost the photos). As you start to cast with it it will continue to darken over time to a point and stay there.

    To the earlier post, to each their own. I love my iron HG and Lyman/ideal molds and it’s true they just work but if you want HP/HB bullets your better off going the brass route than aluminum in my opinion and brass molds need a little different care. Iron molds need consistent maintenance over time (keeping clean and oiled) so it’s not much different. Try them all if you can and pick what’s best for you, there is no right or wrong choice I don’t think, just personal preference.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master


    dondiego's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kreuzlover View Post
    If I have to do all that crap to get a NEW bullet mold to function, they can take a leap! In 55 years of casting bullets, and reloading, I've NEVER had to do all that to get a mold to function. Think I'll stick with RCBS, LYMAN, or hell, even Lee molds before I would go to all that. Some of you fellows must have plenty of excess time on your hands, to have to do all that! Not this hoss! They can sell those molds to somebody besides me.
    You heat cycle your mold every time that you use it.

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy AlHunt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kreuzlover View Post
    If I have to do all that crap to get a NEW bullet mold to function, they can take a leap! In 55 years of casting bullets, and reloading, I've NEVER had to do all that to get a mold to function. Think I'll stick with RCBS, LYMAN, or hell, even Lee molds before I would go to all that. Some of you fellows must have plenty of excess time on your hands, to have to do all that! Not this hoss! They can sell those molds to somebody besides me.
    40 odd years ago I went to work in a little shop with, among other people, a guy named Sam. About 65 years my senior, Sam had been doing this kind of work his whole life.

    One day, after I got done explaining to him why he was doing it all wrong, Sam said to me, "We all work different, don't we, boy"?

    Lesson learned.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check