chainsaw mill

[Markopolo]

i use one for about everything...



i dont push my chainsaw through for the smaller stuff. I use a boat winch and pull mine through. unless I need to mill something longer then 8ft. i also use a deck to do mine as its easier on my back.

[Edward]

any of you use one of these chainsaw mills where you attach a cutting guide to your saw and muscle it through the log?
My son wants to get one but I see more work to produce any lumber, but I may be totally headed in the wrong direction.

Owning a tree co I can tell you the only thing they are good for ,if you are way off the grid they will get your cabin built but if your just in the sticks go to a lumber yard . As far as wasting wood ,so what in the woods means drop another tree!/Ed

[jim147]

I have three Amish mills within about twenty minutes of me.

[GregLaROCHE]

There used to be a very simple and inexpensive version, that attached to the chainsaw and used a 2x4 as a guide. I don’t know if they still exist. They were popular for squaring up logs, but not really up to the job of cutting a lot of boards.

[WebMonkey]

There used to be a very simple and inexpensive version, that attached to the chainsaw and used a 2x4 as a guide. I don’t know if they still exist. They were popular for squaring up logs, but not really up to the job of cutting a lot of boards.

i've got one of those.
think the sticker said 'beam machine' or similar.
basically a length of U channel steel on a pivot pin that clamped to your saw bar.

i used it a couple times to slick off a log for a bench. also made a 6x6 beam/post or two.

i think i used the 12' long 2x4 for a quick project and put the beam machine on the shelf.

[John Wayne]

You're getting some great advice here White Eagle! The are few things more satisfying than opening up a log and seeing it's grain. I'll add this...pressure wash the dirt out of the bark if you dragged the logs and use a LARGE Stihl brand saw with a decompression button for cranking.

[thxmrgarand]

I used one quite a lot many years ago; lumber to build a truck shop, skids for logging equipment, and selling lumber. It is entirely worth your time to debark the logs. I used a Stihl 090 and a McCollouch 125, and both worked well. I used both of those saws for falling. The special chain for milling is worth the cost as is the separate tank for B&C oil. I have a mill now, and some logs to mill but I don't have a saw that is nearly large enough in displacement. I passed up a great buy on a Husky that was large enough as I didn't have the mill at that time and I drag so much stuff home that storage space is a problem. The garage sale gods would not have allowed me to find the mill had I not passed up the saw. With reloading and gun stuff I just buy whatever it is and don't worry about it. I am not even tempted by the Chinese saws.

[MrWolf]

There used to be a very simple and inexpensive version, that attached to the chainsaw and used a 2x4 as a guide. I don’t know if they still exist. They were popular for squaring up logs, but not really up to the job of cutting a lot of boards.

Got one also from Grainger I think. Very simple. Have not had the time to try it as was planning on taking down some trees to put in a small pond. No way to really move the cut trees up a hill.

[dverna]

There are plenty of videos so they will give you a measure of speed of production and ease of use.

The issue with a chainsaw mill that I see is you need a large saw for it to be effective and those are not cheap and they suck fuel. Saws that size are too big for me to handle for other work where an 18"-20' bar is enough.

My buddy is getting a "hobby" bandsaw mill and I think he is on the right track. He can easily sell the bandsaw mill if he tires of it and get most of his investment back. Used bandsaw mills do not last long on Criagslist in our rear.

I have a source of 70 pine/spruce logs 10-18" in diameter (for free) 4 mile from me, plus a tractor with a grapple. I will help him saw the wood and take a bit for my time and trouble. At 70 YO I am not going to be building much so setting up a drying shed is not worth the effort. One of the issues with making lumber is getting it dry and that takes time.

For a few timbers, the chainsaw mill seems to make sense, but if you are going to cut a lot, or make smaller dimensional lumber, the bandsaw mill is worth looking at.

[Mal Paso]

If you want dimensional lumber a swing saw is faster and you don't have to worry about knots pushing the band saw blade around.

On a swing saw the blade rotates 90 degrees to make a second cut on the return stroke so you get 1 piece of lumber per cycle. On a band mill the return stroke is a deadhead.

Baileys ripping chain used to have 4 different cutters and was great stuff. Their new chain has 2 cutters and left a washboard finish. I Do Not Recommend The New Chain. I milled the Oak with RC Chain.

[yeahbub]

I thought about getting one, but between the chain saw and band saw types, I thought the kerf was really thick and you could get more board feet with the thinner band saw cut. In some applications, it may not matter. I'm thinking that for floor boards, there would be much less sanding to finish out the wood. I'll be reading what those with experience have to say. . . .

[Ed K]

Only interest here is for making beams. The kerf becomes a non-issue in this application: take the extra waste out of the slabs, not your beam. Using a commercial Fairmont-Greenlee hydraulic chainsaw which has tons of torque and can take a ridiculous amount of abuse.

Agree a bandsaw, swing mill, etc. is best for boards but there are good uses for the chainsaw mill.

[Mal Paso]

The are few things more satisfying than opening up a log and seeing it's grain.

That's the darn Rabbit Hole. Pretty soon you will be telling yourself you are saving money......

I milled a 6 foot redwood windfall with an Alaskan once upon a time.

[jim147]

I thought about getting one, but between the chain saw and band saw types, I thought the kerf was really thick and you could get more board feet with the thinner band saw cut. In some applications, it may not matter. I'm thinking that for floor boards, there would be much less sanding to finish out the wood. I'll be reading what those with experience have to say. . . .

I only do small stuff but a planer and jointer makes things very smooth once you have it rough cut.

[jonp]

There used to be a very simple and inexpensive version, that attached to the chainsaw and used a 2x4 as a guide. I don’t know if they still exist. They were popular for squaring up logs, but not really up to the job of cutting a lot of boards.

I have a Haddon https://www.amazon.com/Haddon-Lumber...7218972&sr=8-8

It works fine if you watch a youtube on how to do it properly. I've cut 2x4's, 6's and 2x8's as well as 6x6's. Use a big enough saw with a sharp chain, ripping or narrow kerf is best and don't muscle it. If you don't want to buy a narrow kerf bar then a ripping chain is what you want for this. I keep it at my camp along with a $89 Chinese chainsaw to cut up down stuff right in the woods where it lies. Works great for occasional use, cutting a few timbers or using that downed hemlock for something other than letting it sit and rot.

I've used a 41cc saw with an 18in bar and narrow kerf. Worked but slowly and not the best for the saw. Used my 50cc Jonsered Professional and that worked ok but I'd recommend a 60cc or up saw for this if your going to cut on a regular basis. Guy I bought if from runs a chainsaw shop and his sister used it to build a cabin in Northern Canada. If you have the time it would do that but for something like that I'd buy an Alaskan and a Chinese powerhead of the 80cc up on Ebay. Save your good saw for logging/firewood