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Thread: How do l get moulds REALLY clean?

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    6,153
    The best cleaning solution for molds is … Micro-90. Free sample on the Internet website. It is a concentrated solution so make a 5% solution. Wet the mold under hot tap water and scrub the mold with a tooth brush and Micr-90 … do it 2x times, rinse with hot water, wipe dry and bring the mold up to temp

    It is a laboratory cleaning chemical. Been using is for about 15 years. And once cleaned … don’t smoke the mold just lube the pins with paraffin
    Last edited by John Boy; 07-21-2021 at 06:35 PM.
    Regards
    John

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy BRobertson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Delta Junction, Alaska
    Posts
    201
    The info on Micro 90 website states do not use on aluminum!

    Bob

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    9,650
    Quote Originally Posted by Moromane View Post
    How often should I need to smoke my molds?
    Never.....according to most on here. I used to smoke coat my l molds ONCE when new - using a beeswax candle. Now I do not at all.

    (If you feel the need for a high, light up and smoke a mold a day,dude!) HA.....ha!

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,638
    Quote Originally Posted by Moromane View Post
    How often should I need to smoke my molds?
    Never.

    Get your mold to 400degF and your alloy to 700-725degF. I add about 1% tin.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    JSnover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Southampton PA
    Posts
    3,909
    Quote Originally Posted by Moromane View Post
    How often should I need to smoke my molds?
    I'm another one who gave up smoking molds a long time ago. I started doing it because they weren't releasing. De-burring will solve most of your releasing problems. If it doesn't, lap the cavities, you'll get nicer boolits that just fall right out.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Va. mnts
    Posts
    370
    In a previous life.... mid 1970's;

    To keep rust at bay,would take a Q tip and put a wee bit of bullet lube(50/50 BW vaseline) in the cavities whilst still warm. This was at the end of a cast,putting them to bed(storage). Then,would warm them just a bit,say halfway to casting temp,and then blast them with brake cleaner. I cast THOUSANDS of really nice bullets that way. Do what you want but,within reason,most make way too big a deal about minor cavity contamination.

    These days,moulds live in climate control with several "layers" of desiccant's. Good luck with your project.

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Location
    Eastern WA near ID border
    Posts
    54
    I'm a real rookie, but get good fill and nicely formed boolits from new and used moulds I've accumulated. I clean all new moulds with same lacquer thinner I use in my air powered gun washer to clean my paint guns. Not hardware store stuff, auto paint supply store. Place a mould half in a clean paint mixing cup, pour in a couple ounces clean thinner, brush well with soft bristle brush, and spritz with fresh thinner. Spotless and oil free so you can lube the important parts yourself.

    I cast at 725 using a PID controller on my pot, seems to be just right for my use.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Denmark (a greasy little spot in Scandinavia)
    Posts
    751
    Soda blasting!

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    6,774
    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Luber View Post
    I can also pressure cast from a bottom pour... but I still wonder about cleaning solutions
    Acetone soak , and scrub with an old Oral-B Tooth Brush ... Oral - B wont melt .
    After a acetone soak , good scrubbing and clean acetone rinse ... it will be as clean as a whistle .
    You can substitute Lacquer Thinner for Acetone if you like ...get same clean results ... just as good !
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    194
    Stop with the brake parts cleaner. If it's non-chlorinated it's probably OK. The older stuff leaves a residue.

    Do the Dawn and toothbrush and stop.

    Tin may help.

    HEAT. Almost all my wrinkly, rounded bullets problems have been not enough heat. I once ran afoul of that stoopid chlorinated brake parts cleaner (of which I used to be an acolyte)

    Myself, I run my alloy up around 700 and flux. I've been preheating my mold across the top of the pot. I'll cast the first few throws when the alloy is around 750, while letting it run up to 800. My first 4 to 10 casts are slow to allow heat to transfer to the mold (Though I pop the sprue plate right away so it doesn't get too hard). By now my bullets are looking good and starting to show frost. Frost is my heat check and I start to let the alloy drift back into the 700's. As the mold gets hotter, the sprue will take longer to set and break easier and easier.

    I believe antimony is required to get the frost reaction. If you're running pure lead, I don't think you'll get it.

    Smoking sprue plate lube is another good heat check.

    A hot mold is a happy, forgiving mold.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check