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Thread: So can someone answer me a few basic questions about reloading

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help everyone. Be assured I am reading and taking in the information from all posts. I just ordered my first molds for 357 and plan to order more, get into powder coating, and start dedicating at least once a month of shooting at the range.

    I really want to get into reloading. I don't know how to explain it but best I can say is at this point I feel like, yes I have been reloading, but I have never gotten INTO reloading. I want to get into the measuring (more than just OAL) and really start with mixed loads and take a note book to the range type stuff. I can't explain how much I really enjoy reloading. Something about making something from scratch that you can shoot yourself is very satisfying to me.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The reason for working up to max loads are as mentioned above you dont have the same exact firearm as was used. A lot of manuals used a universal receiver set up to measure pressure.
    Do to manufacture ring tolerances every firearm is slightly different. Chambers, throats, leades, bores and grooves all may vary slightly affecting pressure. Then the actual reloading process, varying case capacities, seating depths crimp all also affect pressure. Then a big question is is is the 8.3 grns of powder the same as the 8.3 grns they loaded. Unless you check your scales with a set of check weights your in the dark and this still dosnt check theirs.

    What I would recommend is to do 2 things 1st buy a box or 2 of factory ammo and test that in your gun and see how that performs, then put together some light target loads and shoot them see how they perform in your gun.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    The other thing I think I really need is a new powder dispenser. Right now I have the most basic of basic LEE single stage kits so I'm using the ****ty LEE powder thrower



    It sucks on a pretty big scale. Sometimes I throws the loads as much as .5 off (but sometimes it throws the same amount 10 times in a row) and the handle gets very gritty and hard to work.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Yes, that Lee measure is ok but not great. Many powder measures will throw an 'off' load every now and then. But, it is normally off 0.2gn or so. I use the Lee disk measure for pistol loads. Best is to throw the load into a pan and measure on a scale (digital scales are inexpensive). If it is within tolerance then pour it into the case. If not put it back in the measure and drop another charge.

    As others have mentioned, loading to max is simply not necessary unless you are hunting big game. Even then it is questionable. When I reload pistols I normally pick a load half way between min and max. If it works I use it. Sometimes in auto loaders I will go up a little to make sure it cycles reliably.

    Others have already mentioned the issues with plated bullets and cast at too high a velocity. Basically if I want to shoot above 1200fps then I either use gas checks or powder coat (or both). And you will want to size the bullets for your gun.


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  5. #25
    Boolit Master


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    My opinion? I load for accuracy. Ladder test some rounds.. go with best.. make those. I wouldn't be making inaccurate rounds.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Just one last piece of advice from me....and that is how your charge your cases. Some powders are easy to double charge.

    Get into good habits.

    First, only have the powder cannister you are using on the bench. Keep the others in a different spot. I use shelves away from the bench.

    Second, to not use a loading block to charge your cases. Put your sized and primed cases in a container. Pick up a case, charge the case, AND NEVER LET GO OF THE CASE UNTIL YOU SEAT THE BULLET. Doing it this way makes it nearly impossible to ever double charge a case when loading with a single stage press. IMO most double charges are caused by folks using single stage presses and loading blocks to hold their charged cases before seating bullets. Do not listen to folks who say they inspect every case in the loading block with a bright light to check for double charges. It only takes one mistake to have an incident. And some people are just not as attentive as others. What works for them may not work for everyone. My way works for everyone. It is also faster as you handle the case less often. Charging cases separately offers no advantages wrt to either safety or productivity.

    I do not watch TV while reloading and will not let children be around. Cats can be troublesome...older well behaved dogs who do not need attention are acceptable.
    Don Verna


  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    i don't know if anyone else has touched on this ....but here goes anyway,

    many here will agree that most guns don't shoot precision accurate when shooting balls to the wall maximum powder loads.

    the other thing is ...neither will you.

    lastly , shooting maximum loads only just plain beats the hell out of your guns.

    what fun is there in destroying your hands and shoulders and your guns only to miss your intended target at warp factor 9?

    i get the same thump and noise in a bar fight ....to each his own!

  8. #28
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dverna View Post
    Just one last piece of advice from me....and that is how your charge your cases. Some powders are easy to double charge.

    Get into good habits.

    First, only have the powder cannister you are using on the bench. Keep the others in a different spot. I use shelves away from the bench.

    Second, to not use a loading block to charge your cases. Put your sized and primed cases in a container. Pick up a case, charge the case, AND NEVER LET GO OF THE CASE UNTIL YOU SEAT THE BULLET. Doing it this way makes it nearly impossible to ever double charge a case when loading with a single stage press. IMO most double charges are caused by folks using single stage presses and loading blocks to hold their charged cases before seating bullets. Do not listen to folks who say they inspect every case in the loading block with a bright light to check for double charges. It only takes one mistake to have an incident. And some people are just not as attentive as others. What works for them may not work for everyone. My way works for everyone. It is also faster as you handle the case less often. Charging cases separately offers no advantages wrt to either safety or productivity.

    I do not watch TV while reloading and will not let children be around. Cats can be troublesome...older well behaved dogs who do not need attention are acceptable.
    Yea this is what I do. I have the powder inside my house and my reloading area only ever has the powder I'm loading right then and there. And when I throw powder in the case I then put it in the seat and put a bullet in.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    I think the absolute first thing I need to do before shooting again is have properly sized powder coated bullets.

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master

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    If I can't safely open a reloading manual printed in 2016 and run it's max load then why is it listed as the max load? And what do I use and trust?

    When you guys say "work your way up" what exactly do you mean? Are we talking example here above...Starting load of Uniqe 6.4, then some in 6.5, 6.6, 6.7, 6.8, 6.9, 7.0, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3....All the way to 8.3?

    When you do "work your way up" what exactly are you doing it for?

    Max loads listed in any manuals are SAAMI pressure related (newer manuals/tested loads are tested with much more accurate equipment than older tests and some are much more accurate than the copper crush method). The tech tech/labs used their equipment, often a universal receiver and barrel and not a gun, to check load pressures and list those loads that are at or near SAAMI max. The old saw we hear quite often is "Each gun is tool unto in itself", meaning every gun is not exactly the same as far as performance. My gun may be safe with xxx grains of Big Bang powder but the same xxx grains may be OK for a while, but exert too much wear and tear in your gun.

    Working up means starting with minimum loads and adding a bit of powder after testing each charge and recording results. Next load is tested and recorded and so on until a safe accurate, consistent load is reached quite often not at or near max. Again this is done for your gun.

    The charge increases are fairly personal and if asked on a forum you'll get several increase amounts. Personally, I start at a chosen book min and jump 1/2 to 1 grain depending on caliber and components, until I find a promising load then tweek the charge by smaller amounts, up and down until "The Load" is determined for the gun.

    "Working up" is the term for starting with lighter powder charges and increasing the charge until the results wanted (velocity, function, accuracy) are achieved for your gun, customizing/tailoring the load for your gun safely...

    You will find some loads that are fairly universal that will work well in several guns, but the idea is to reload for your specific gun(s) safely. Starting at the max is kinda like reading that your new car will go 125 mph and get 20 mpg and first time driving getting on the highway and pushing it to 125, no break in, no warm up. Yeah you can do that, but is it a wise/safe thing to do?..

    There are a bunch of "how to" posts above and most will probably help but I have my Rule #1; I pay no attention to any load data I see on any forum or pet loads website or hear from any gun counter clerk, good intended friend, range rat or gun shop guru. I get 98% of my load data from published manuals with a bit from powder/bullet manufacturers' websites. I had one squib in 1979 and no Kabooms and customized some very accurate loads. I like reloading so taking a bit longer to find "The Load" is just more fun. More researching, more reloading, more shooting, more analyzing (I have a 3 ring binder for the loads I put together from '88 to 2000 and started a a couple others as I've had to use one just for handguns, one for my Garand, one for shotgun)...

    Go slow. Double check everything. Most important, have fun...
    Last edited by mdi; 07-13-2021 at 12:50 PM.
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  11. #31
    Boolit Master pjames32's Avatar
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    Safety has got to be at the top of your list. I would buy some jacketed bullets and lern to be a good safe consistent reloader BEFORE you adventure into casting! Read aa few reloading manuals. They have a lot of good safety information that you NEED to learn first. You have had a lot of good constructive comments without too much criticism. Take them to heart annd be safe. Don't be the guy at the range that causes everyone else to leave when they show up at the range. Safety first!
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  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    Maybe a near by forum member would be willing to check out your revolver throats for size. Once you know that you will know what sized cast boolits to use. Try some medium loads of faster powders like HP 38, HS 6 or Unique again. 158 gr. projectiles always gave me good accuracy in .357.
    "If everyone is thinking the same thing it means someone is not thinking"

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  13. #33
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cosmic_Charlie View Post
    Maybe a near by forum member would be willing to check out your revolver throats for size. Once you know that you will know what sized cast boolits to use. Try some medium loads of faster powders like HP 38, HS 6 or Unique again. 158 gr. projectiles always gave me good accuracy in .357.
    Does this not work? Melt a lead round ball in a 38 special cast and then push that from back to front of the cylinder chambers? Then measure them with a micrometer? Just an idea

  14. #34
    Boolit Master Baltimoreed's Avatar
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    Not getting into anything too deep or specific I’ve found that the most accurate handgun loads will be the lighter loads not max loads. Heavy loads have much more recoil which will enlarge the group and can cause a flinch to develop which will also enlarge the group. Pushing lead too fast will strip the rifling and lead your bbl. If you were building revolver loads for a bear or moose hunt ok then but it would become a trade off as to the necessary ballistic performance vs the acceptable accuracy at hunting ranges. Not the case with target work. You’re NOT trying to ‘kill’ the target. Lighten up, get an accurate load built up and then see how fast you can go before it goes south. A chronograph might be a good investment too.

  15. #35
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    I've never heard any reloader say" Man, those plated bullets are accurate!"
    8.3 grains of Unique is a good load for magnum revolver cartridges starting with a 4- not a 3......
    I agree with using factory loads to set a baseline- then work to make your handloads more accurate- not more powerful.

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  16. #36
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    First, its really hard to determine accuracy of anything if one cant shoot well. SO removing as much shooter error is critical to evaluate any given load. With any handgun or rifle, if factory ammo is available, then I like to run at least one brand of something as a benchmark. This at least tells me what my gun is capable of with some uniform ammo. Then I can start handloading with something to compare with.

    If I can't safely open a reloading manual printed in 2016 and run it's max load then why is it listed as the max load? And what do I use and trust?
    Because every gun is diff. Manuals are guides, the data really only valid in that specific test platform. Plus you rarely are using identical components.

    When you guys say "work your way up" what exactly do you mean? Are we talking example here above...Starting load of Uniqe 6.4, then some in 6.5, 6.6, 6.7, 6.8, 6.9, 7.0, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3....All the way to 8.3? Yes

    When you do "work your way up" what exactly are you doing it for? For safety reasons, see previous answer on test platforms.

    What do I need to do to become a successful reloader for revolver rounds and have accurate and safe loads? I feel like yes I am enjoying it but I feel like I haven't even scratched the surface. I want to see the payoff for my reloading (accuracy).

    The first thing is to measure all your cyl throats with a pin gages or iD micrometer. That is the size your bullet will bump or swage to as it leaves the cyl & hits the bbl. If the bore is say 0.357" & the throats 0.356", the bullet will bump at some point, maybe, as it goes down the bbl. Never good for accuracy. Accuracy will vary with a given powder & bullet combo. Some say bbl harmonics. I know that is true with longer rifle bbls but not sure it plays into handguns with 6" or less bbls. Still, some types of bullets like some types of powders. An example is Unique seems to be magic with lead bullets in most handguns. Other bullets may show a pref for something else. So the only way to know is load them & shoot them.
    As to accuracy. What is your goal? Are you capable of say offhand 2" accuracy @ 25Y? If not, then striving for that off the bench is a nice goal but in the end only matters if you are shooting off the bench. Most guns & ammo will out shoot their owners by a good margin.
    Last edited by fredj338; 07-13-2021 at 03:13 PM.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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  17. #37
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baltimoreed View Post
    Not getting into anything too deep or specific I’ve found that the most accurate handgun loads will be the lighter loads not max loads. Heavy loads have much more recoil which will enlarge the group and can cause a flinch to develop which will also enlarge the group. Pushing lead too fast will strip the rifling and lead your bbl. If you were building revolver loads for a bear or moose hunt ok then but it would become a trade off as to the necessary ballistic performance vs the acceptable accuracy at hunting ranges. Not the case with target work. You’re NOT trying to ‘kill’ the target. Lighten up, get an accurate load built up and then see how fast you can go before it goes south. A chronograph might be a good investment too.
    Recoil in itself wont enlarge the group, its all about the shooter. My magnums are pretty darn accurate out to 100y if I do my part. I have shot 3" groups off he bench with several of my 44mags. It doesnt matter if I am shooting midrange or full house, proper technique is what delivers repeatable accuracy.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
    NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol

  18. #38
    Boolit Master Win94ae's Avatar
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    All my handgun loads are loaded to jacketed bullet speeds; lead, plated or jacketed I treat them the same. Here is my practice load, which is using a medium load of VV-N-110.



    I work up a load from a 10 or so shot ladder test, starting at the starting powder charge and increasing it 1/10 of a grain each consecutive case. I will check each case after I shoot it for overpressure signs, and stop if I find them. After firing the cartridges, I'll check the target for consecutive shots that group together.

    I'll use a rest when shooting the ladder test, as well as cock the hammer, for the best accuracy I can muster.



    Notice how the handgun is placed on the rest? You don't want it resting on the barrel, it could have an effect on barrel harmonics.

    When you take the ladder test, and when shooting a group, use the rest. When you test yourself, then shoot offhand.

    Good luck!

  19. #39
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    8.3 grains of Unique is a good load for magnum revolver cartridges starting with a 4- not a 3......


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    Ah come on man, live with me on the edge a little!

  20. #40
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    I need to learn all of the high pressure signs and learn when to cut it off. I'm telling you that 8.3gr of Unique was impressive. Good thing it was close to July 4th.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check