lee 2 cavity sprue bolt.... drill and tap size

[MSUICEMAN]

got one used that was all messed up. removed the bolt but i need to flat file the face, then drill/tap the hole and replace the bolt/screw. will a 10/24 work well? the sprue plate was no where near sitting flat on it, and the bolt was seized in the block. i'm assuming drill and tapping is needed, as the threads are jacked in the block (thought about attempting to chase them, but meh).

[RickinTN]

It could be left hand thread, the newer ones are? Just a thought.
Rick

[P Flados]

The newer ones are left hand threaded. If you sheared off the screw in the block, filing it flush and trying to drill it out may result in it backing out as you drill (best outcome). Then you will need to get a new Lee left hand sprue plate screw (see below).

Otherwise you have something of a mess.

The pins that hold the blocks to the handles have allen heads but are not screws. They have spiral serrations more lengthwise (see below). I have used an allen wrench and wiggled back & forth and worked the pins out on a mold. If you can do this, you may be able to swap the blocks around and get a nice new place on what was the front of the original right side block to drill and tap an all new hole. Then you will need to deal with the fact that Lee uses a shoulder screw.

[MSUICEMAN]

i got it out, but the threads are all jacked in the block. i doubt finding a LH tap and using it to clean them up would end up in satisfactory outcome, but i may try this first. (do you happen to know thread size/pitch of the LH threads?) if not, then i'm going to just upside the hole, thread, and replace the screw with a commercially available one to that thread and figure out what to do about the shoulder if i can't find one (i'm assuming I will be able to locate one, though i may need to do a washer stack.

[45DUDE]

I repaired a couple. The sprue plate had a bushing and a top hardened screw from a Rochester quadrajet carburetor was the same size as the hole in the bushing. I drilled it deeper and didn't have to use a tap. I drilled the side and installed a self taping screw for a lock on the screw. Fast and easy.

[MT Gianni]

No reason to put a LH thread back in. Tap it to the size you want and put a set screw in the side to hold tension. Put a piece of shot or copper wire between the set screw and the hole. No way is this worth it on a DC Lee unless you are doing it yourself.

[longbow]

I'd be inclined to drill and tap for Heli-Coil or an insert rather than drill and tap that soft aluminum for a larger screw:

https://www.stanleyengineeredfasteni...ptia/heli-coil
https://www.mcmaster.com/left-hand-t...cking-inserts/

Heli-Coil should fit fine but not sure if there's enough meat for an insert. With Heli-Coil you wind up with steel threads against steel threads so no galling, stripping or seizing to worry about after.

Longbow