Bolt extremely hard to rotate on old Husqvarna 640 30-06

[roysha]

You might check for galling of the locking lugs. Some years ago I had a fellow bring me a REM 700 the was exhibiting exactly what you are describing. He was a "clean" freak and was afraid to leave ANY lube on anything. After several shots he could barely open the bolt because of the galling, fortunately just on the locking lugs. I was able to clean them up and convince him that a wee bit of lube was a good thing.

It could also be the cocking piece dragging on the ramp of the bolt but since the other bolt was better but still a bit rough I doubt that is the issue.

I know nothing about these specific actions so the next thought might be out in left field. Is it possible that a heavy duty striker spring was installed in the bolt? I have installed 30 lb. springs in some 98s at customer request and it definitely adds a bit to the power required to cock the gun, I assume the the 640 is a 98 clone of one sort or another.

[376Steyr]

Have you tried cleaning out the locking lug recesses in the action? There may be some crud in there which is gumming up the works.

[Texas by God]

There's not much bolt lift resistance normally on a cock on closing action, so something is up.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

[Gtek]

If he ever gets home and gets into it but my money is still on extractor issue, hopefully we'll hear soon. I like a happy ending, how bout Ya'll?

[8mmFan]

If he ever gets home and gets into it but my money is still on extractor issue, hopefully we'll hear soon. I like a happy ending, how bout Ya'll?

I’m home, Gtek! LOL. I will get into it this weekend. Got home Thursday and it was “game on,” with kids’ sports, wife’s honey-do’s, a garage that’s in the middle of being built, and all the rest.

As I feel I’m among friends, who won’t tell anybody, I’ll make an admission: despite the fact that I got my first bolt action rifle about 30 years ago, I’ve never broken down the bolt past taking the firing pin out. I don’t know how to remove the extractor, etc. I’ll watch a video and figure it out.

I don’t think it’s dirty lug recesses, btw. The bolt from the 9.3 x 62 cycled just fine. I think it’s some problem with the bolt. I’m wondering if I have to polish some places, etc.

It’s a nice rifle, and it’s the only 30-06 I’ve got with a 24-inch barrel (with a pristine-looking bore, as it happens). So if I have to I’m perfectly happy to take it to a gunsmith. I’ll have to get it drilled and tapped for a scope, anyway.

I’ll look into it this weekend and see what I can find, and report back.

Thank you, all of you, for all of the good ideas above.

8mmFan

[Mk42gunner]

Word to the wise, the extractor it self isn't all that hard to take off a Mauser bolt; but the extractor collar is a different story. It is easy to break by trying to get it to expand enough to slip out of the groove. (Yes I have broken one).

Honestly, I don't think you will need to will need to take the collar off.

Robert

[Gtek]

Double recommend to not play with collar if extractor removed. Just carefully line up and insert bolt confirming in rail area on RH side and make sure it is in correct position on bolt removal. The military (safety on shroud) bolts removing firing pin assembly is much easier than commercial (safety in trigger group). I use a .040" safety wire loop in vise to pull back on cocking piece for body spin off/on.

[jim147]

Have you tried the 30-06 bolt in the other rifle?

[JHeath]

Squirt some lube on the cocking cam.

I had a Rem Model 30-S that came back from a smith and I practically could not raise the bolt handle. I lubed the cocking cam surface with lithium grease and everything went back to normal.

I can only guess he degreased it and it just bound up.