RepackboxRotoMetals2MidSouth Shooters SupplyLee Precision
Load DataInline FabricationReloading EverythingTitan Reloading
Wideners
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Any Tips For Casting #4 Buckshot From A Lee 18-Cav Mold #90028?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy Liberty1776's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    The Free State of Arizona
    Posts
    384

    Any Tips For Casting #4 Buckshot From A Lee 18-Cav Mold #90028?

    I bought a Lee 90028 18-Cavity #4 Buckshot mold on eBay back in June of 2020. That's like, last year. So long ago. $58.36 delivered. (Not to brag, but that mold, if you can find it, now goes for $124.12 plus tax from the same seller....)

    Anyway, I have not used it yet. Got it all scrubbed, lubed with 2-cycle oil, smoked, and with handles, ready to go.

    What's best for buckshot? Hard lead? Pure lead? Wheelweights? Range scrap?

    Should I coat with graphite (and where do you get a supply of graphite??)

    Does it matter?

    Thanks.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Lee 90028 No 4 Buckshot mold.jpg 
Views:	22 
Size:	18.5 KB 
ID:	285713

  2. #2

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy Liberty1776's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    The Free State of Arizona
    Posts
    384
    Ah, yes. Need to separate the pearls.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    3,402
    You can get the cutters also at Walmart that is where I got my many years ago .
    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    1,521
    Liberty,

    In general, you want shot pellets (of any type) to be hard. When I make buckshot I mix linotype and pure lead 50/50 to produce an alloy of 92-6-2. That's the same as Hardball alloy. I water-drop those pellets so in the end the BHN is up around 22. Hard pellets stay rounder and fly straighter, you'll have less fliers.

    Get the mould hot first, then lube it. Don't smoke it if you don't need to ( I didn't). When you preheat your mould, remember to preheat the sprue plate also. Pour a generous sprue, that helps keep the plate hot which, in turn, keeps the mould up to temp. I think the biggest obstacle with these moulds is keeping them up to casting temp. Once you figure out what your mould wants you'll be raining shot like a pro!

    Graphite? Naaahh........but you might want to install a screw under where the sprue plate lever pivots.

    http://www.castpics.net/subsite2/Mol...umentation.pdf
    "We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"

    unknown

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Cap'n Morgan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    1,458
    I'm not familiar with the Lee molds, but I once made a bunch of different size buckshot molds.
    When cast from pure wheel weight alloy, the balls could be twisted from the stem using nothing but a pair of gloves.

    The mold in the picture would cast 40 #4 buckshot in a single drop. The inlets were quite small so pressure-casting and hot alloy and mold were important.
    I'm not sure if graphite (Molykote powder) will improve patterns, I did try to tumble some, and they turned out much slicker than the naked lead balls,
    but I never got around to test any loads.

    Cap'n Morgan

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    1,521
    Wow! That's a really nice mould Cap'n Morgan, nice work!
    "We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"

    unknown

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Castlegar, B.C., Canada
    Posts
    7,933
    Not #4 but Lee 00 buck mould. I find it needs to be run HOT as mentioned above and cast fast.

    I find best results if I cut the sprues just as the lead is freezing... I used clip on WW. If the shot is dropped out while it is still brittle and dropped onto a wet rag most of the pellets break apart. The ones that stay together are rolled under a utility knife to separate them.

    If you water drop you'll have to clip apart or use the knife trick. It isn't hard though.

    Longbow

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Western Colorado
    Posts
    120
    I partially fill the outside of the mold to heat it up. Once each side and then start pouring. I wonder if a little insulation would be a good thing given the amount of surface area relative to the mold volume.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    1,521
    Quote Originally Posted by Sitzme View Post
    I partially fill the outside of the mold to heat it up. Once each side and then start pouring. I wonder if a little insulation would be a good thing given the amount of surface area relative to the mold volume.
    Insulation?
    "We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"

    unknown

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check