Lyman Spartan, vs Texan press

[Ironwrx]

Hi. My fleet of single stage loading presses has tripled in size in l the last couple of weeks. I started with a Lyman “Spartan” press, and was given an older RCBS “RC” press which I love. Then, the other day, Someone gave me Texan press. Now, I want some opinions on whether to keep the Spartan, or the Texan. The Texan certainly looks a bit beefier in the frame, and the ram appears to be about the same as the Spartan. I think the Spartan has a longer handle. As far as “saleability”, I do not know, the Spartan seems more common, but maybe the Texan is worth more being less common??? I do want to keep one of the inclined presses to go with my RC as a second operation press but wanted opinions what to do? Please help with your opinions.



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[ndnchf]

FWIW - I have a Spartan that I refurbed, as well as a big O style press. I use the spartan for smaller cartridges and primer seating. Parts can still be found for them, which is a big plus. I really like it.

Check out my Spartan refurb thread:

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...hlight=Spartan

[762 shooter]

I would keep them all.

The Texan is just cool.

I have a RC and a Spartan anyway.

762

[smithnframe]

I’d get rid of the RCBS and strip the other 2 and repaint them!

[Shawlerbrook]

Agree on keeping them all in this crazy time, but if I had to choose the Texan would go.

[1hole]

I don't think there's a nickle's worth of difference between them to a user but I think the Texans were aluminum alloy. In the resale market the green Kool-Aid drinkers cause a dollar effect that really can't be justified in use but if you sell you should know about it.

If they were mine I'd probably sell two or all three of them and buy a much larger, stronger Lee Classic Cast Single Stage (all iron/steel) to get the much better leverage and other "best in class" user features.

(BUT, I would NOT get anyone's "quick-change" bushing die gimmicks.)

[pworley1]

I have them both and use them both. I use the spartan to prime and the Texan to trim. I am sure that you can find a use for both of them. If I had to pick one I would keep the Spartan.

[LUBEDUDE]

That frame of the Texan press came in both cast iron and aluminum, I have both. If I had to guess, I’d say yours is iron. However, the weak link to both of those Texans is the aluminum handle used for each one.

So while the Texan frame may be stronger, you may never get to test that out with the aluminum handle against the steel handle on the Lyman.

Now one more bounce of the ball the other way, the Texan handle is off center to the right and offers easier access with you your left hand; that is, IF you don’t mind using your right hand on the handle.

The only one who can say which is better is you deciding for you.

[Ironwrx]

I don't think there's a nickle's worth of difference between them to a user but I think the Texans were aluminum alloy. In the resale market the green Kool-Aid drinkers cause a dollar effect that really can't be justified in use but if you sell you should know about it.

If they were mine I'd probably sell two or all three of them and buy a much larger, stronger Lee Classic Cast Single Stage (all iron/steel) to get the much better leverage and other "best in class" user features.

(BUT, I would NOT get anyone's "quick-change" bushing die gimmicks.)

Actually you are 1/2 right. The Texan HANDLE is aluminum alloy. The rest is cast iron and heavy at that (even with the alloy handle, it weighs in a pound heavier than the Spartan). Maybe this is an early Texan being that it is cast iron. I do think I’ll end up keeping all the presses for the time being so I can leave some set up for priming /hardness testing etc.


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[gwpercle]

I've been casting and reloading for + 50 years ... I've seen a lot ... Best Advice ...
... Keep Them Both ... Never get rid of a good working single stage . You will sooner or later need two or three presses if you do any amount of reloading . Since 1967 : Lyman Spartan , Pacific Super Deluxe , Eagle Cobra 300 , Lyman A-A Turret and two Lee Hand Presses ... and I use them all !
Don't get rid of a perfectly good press , you won't get enough money to do squat if you sell it and they ain't eating no hay ...trust me ...best advice ...keep them .
Gary

[Ironwrx]

That frame of the Texan press came in both cast iron and aluminum, I have both. If I had to guess, I’d say yours is iron. However, the weak link to both of those Texans is the aluminum handle used for each one.

So while the Texan frame may be stronger, you may never get to test that out with the aluminum handle against the steel handle on the Lyman.

Now one more bounce of the ball the other way, the Texan handle is off center to the right and offers easier access with you your left hand; that is, IF you don’t mind using your right hand on the handle.

The only one who can say which is better is you deciding for you.

I do think the strongest press I have in my fleet is the RCBS with it’s bigger ram 1” vs 13/16” for the Lyman, and the Texan. Also the handle diameter is 3/4” vs 5/8” on the Lyman. And the handle length is 15-1/2” vs 12-1/2” on the Texan and Spartan. So, I’ll leave the heavy work to the RCBS and leave the lighter operations to the other two.


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[farmbif]

if they taking up too much space and you need to make room I can help, you can send that sweet looking RCBS press.
in all reality if it were me I'd keep all of them its not like they are going to go bad or anything like that.

[Ironwrx]

I've been casting and reloading for + 50 years ... I've seen a lot ... Best Advice ...
... Keep Them Both ... Never get rid of a good working single stage . You will sooner or later need two or three presses if you do any amount of reloading . Since 1967 : Lyman Spartan , Pacific Super Deluxe , Eagle Cobra 300 , Lyman A-A Turret and two Lee Hand Presses ... and I use them all !
Don't get rid of a perfectly good press , you won't get enough money to do squat if you sell it and they ain't eating no hay ...trust me ...best advice ...keep them .
Gary

I have come through this discussion to realize you are 100% correct. In all three presses, the only money I have invested is $12 for an old Pacific that I traded for the Spartan. The other two were free, and I just like them all for different reasons.


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[Three44s]

An RCBS Rock Chucker is never wrong, the last to go in my book.

Unless you need the money, I would keep all of those single stage presses though!

Three44s

[Ironwrx]

…In the resale market the green Kool-Aid drinkers cause a dollar effect that really can't be justified in use but if you sell you should know about it.


(BUT, I would NOT get anyone's "quick-change" bushing die gimmicks.)

I’m confused by the line about the “green Kool-Aid drinkers” what do you mean?? Also in the end you mention “quick change bushing die gimmicks “ I presume this would include Hornady’s Lock and load quick change bushings?


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[1hole]

I’m confused by the line about the “green Kool-Aid drinkers” what do you mean??

I mean those who think "RCBS" is the correct answer to all tool questions. I have several, including an RC 2, and they are good tools but so are the others.

Also in the end you mention “quick change bushing die gimmicks “ I presume this would include Hornady’s Lock and load quick change bushings?

Yes. (Of course about half of Hornady's tools carry their "Lock and Load" marketing labels that have no meaning.)

Exchanging screwed in dies isn't difficult or time intensive. Dies can normally be swapped in about a minute and even the quickies take a few seconds. So, in the course of a two or four die reloading session, how much time can the quick change gimmicks "save"? (I need more time that that to sip on a cup of coffee as I reload!) And anyone with a moderately large die collection must spend quite a bit to save those few meaningless seconds.

[Pressman]

1hole, I have to agree with you, but then I am a traditionalist and enjoy reloading for relaxation and using a green press.

The Texan press pictured is a Rotex/Texan from 1968. It's called the Double C, model 256. Shipped new it was $24.95. It's a decent press, the frame is stout, and the aluminum handle works ok. It was good competition to the very popular Lyman Spartan of the same time.

Ken

[Ironwrx]

I mean those who think "RCBS" is the correct answer to all tool questions. I have several, including an RC 2, and they are good tools but so are the others.



Yes. (Of course about half of Hornady's tools carry their "Lock and Load" marketing labels that have no meaning.)

Exchanging screwed in dies isn't difficult or time intensive. Dies can normally be swapped in about a minute and even the quickies take a few seconds. So, in the course of a two or four die reloading session, how much time can the quick change gimmicks "save"? (I need more time that that to sip on a cup of coffee as I reload!) And anyone with a moderately large die collection must spend quite a bit to save those few meaningless seconds.

Hi. Thanks for your reply. I by no means am arguing here, just stating what I think is the reason behind the “lock and load” bushing, and want to hear your take on it. I think their argument for using the lock and load is mainly to avoid having to adjust each die after changing to a new die. Yes, there is a time saving as well, but I think their main point, is to be able to set the die up and leave it adjusted.


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[1hole]

.... I think their main point, is to be able to set the die up and leave it adjusted.

Their original stated reason for being was rapid die exchanges without tools; I just use standard die lock rings to keep my dies adjusted.

I've not used pliers or pipe wrenches to cinch my dies down for more than 45 years, hand tight dies are plenty tight so wrenches need not be used on lock rings. That's why so many die makers put easily gripped knurled rings on their dies.

[Ironwrx]

Their original stated reason for being was rapid die exchanges without tools; I just use standard die lock rings to keep my dies adjusted.

I've not used pliers or pipe wrenches to cinch my dies down for more than 45 years, hand tight dies are plenty tight so wrenches need not be used on lock rings. That's why so many die makers put easily gripped knurled rings on their dies.

Good point. And (pardon my naïvety, as a new Reloader) I’m guessing that if you take out, and reinstall the dies by gripping the lock ring instead of the die body, then the setting adjustment will remain intact?


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