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Thread: Lyman Spartan, vs Texan press

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ironwrx View Post
    I’m guessing that if you take out, and reinstall the dies by gripping the lock ring instead of the die body, then the setting adjustment will remain intact?
    You've talking about Lee's "O" ring system and you've got me there, it depends. Yeah, gripping Lee's rings instead of the die body works good but you have to be careful when you do it; fat fingered guys like me can easily mess that up.

    BUT, we aren't working to B.R. tolerances and it's so easy and fast to reset Lee dies that may have slipped a bit that I just don't worry about it. All other die brands have some way to firmly clamp the lock rings in place.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndnchf View Post
    FWIW - I use the spartan for smaller cartridges and primer seating. Parts can still be found for them, which is a big plus. I really like it.
    Good point. And Lyman's Spartan/Spar-T presses had a brass tube auto feeder for primers that worked right all the time, unlike the cheeper copy cat alum tube feeders big green marketed.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    I have to say +1 on the "don't get rid of a good press". If you have a dedicated loading room and don't want to set up all three...mount a shelf near the ceiling but low enough to accommodate the tallest press and use them for decorations.
    A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ironwrx View Post
    Good point. And (pardon my naïvety, as a new Reloader) I’m guessing that if you take out, and reinstall the dies by gripping the lock ring instead of the die body, then the setting adjustment will remain intact?


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    Many of the die nuts come with set screws to lock the position. Another method is to use 2 nuts tightened together to save your setting.

    I bought a few set screw nuts and used the nuts from those dies to double nut the others.
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  5. #25
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    In my OPINION, split lock rings with a clamping screw like those Forster/Hornady use are by far the best ring design. They lock positive but total release is easy and they can't jack up the die body threads like stupid (cheep) set screws do; what's not to love?

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ironwrx View Post
    Actually you are 1/2 right. The Texan HANDLE is aluminum alloy. The rest is cast iron and heavy at that (even with the alloy handle, it weighs in a pound heavier than the Spartan). Maybe this is an early Texan being that it is cast iron. I do think I’ll end up keeping all the presses for the time being so I can leave some set up for priming /hardness testing etc.


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    I'm not familar with Texan presses, but what do you suppose was their reasoning making it with an aluminum handle? Seems like besides being the weak point in the whole thing, it would also have been the easiest part to make with just a piece of steel round bar stock like the other two presses. Odd.

    It is a cool old press, though, and I fully agree with the consensus to keep all three. But then, I have a bunch of old single stage presses, they seem to follow me home like stray puppies.

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub Ironwrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richhodg66 View Post
    I'm not familar with Texan presses, but what do you suppose was their reasoning making it with an aluminum handle? Seems like besides being the weak point in the whole thing, it would also have been the easiest part to make with just a piece of steel round bar stock like the other two presses. Odd.

    It is a cool old press, though, and I fully agree with the consensus to keep all three. But then, I have a bunch of old single stage presses, they seem to follow me home like stray puppies.
    One feature that seems to be prominent on this press is that the handle is offset to the right (presumably to open the working parts up to better access). I’m guessing it is less expensive to cast aluminum parts than cast Iron and for general purpose reloading work. It is probably easier to cast an offset arm than to forge a steel one in that shape.


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  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by richhodg66 View Post
    I'm not familar with Texan presses, but what do you suppose was their reasoning making it with an aluminum handle? Seems like besides being the weak point in the whole thing, it would also have been the easiest part to make with just a piece of steel round bar stock like the other two presses. Odd.
    Pound for pound, aluminum is said to be stronger than steel. That press arm is quite beefy, I doubt it's much of a weak point.

  9. #29
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    Don't forget that the Rock Chuck press has the removable bushing/nut, that allows you to use larger dies for bullet swagging and such. With bushing removed, you've got 1 1/4" threads to use for whatever. I think one of the original selling points for that press was as a bullet swagging unit.

    That bushing can also be removed to install the RCBS Piggyback Progressive unit. (a Rube Goldberg version of progressive loading)

    If you have a moral or psychological problem with "Big Green", you can always special order the "RCBS Yaller Series" press. jd

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    It seems that people who do almost nothing, often complain loudly when it's time to do it.

  10. #30
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    I have a moral or psychological problem with "Big Yellow", what my eyes have seen cannot be unseen.

  11. #31
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    Agreed. That just looks weird.

  12. #32
    Boolit Bub Ironwrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pressman View Post
    I have a moral or psychological problem with "Big Yellow", what my eyes have seen cannot be unseen.
    Yes, but you must admit, it would fit in with the grader, payloader, and bulldozer when you’re on the job site doing reloading.


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  13. #33
    Boolit Bub Ironwrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richhodg66 View Post
    Agreed. That just looks weird.
    I agree. It def. needs a yellow handle grip.


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  14. #34
    Boolit Master hoodat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ironwrx View Post
    Yes, but you must admit, it would fit in with the grader, payloader, and bulldozer when you’re on the job site doing reloading.


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    That's what happens when I've got a bead blaster and a can of yellow equipment enamel.

    I've got three or four of those RCBS Reloader Specials that I picked up for next to nuthin, and I'm thinking of making one red, and one blue. Then I could put a note in each die box saying which press they're adjusted for. I'll have to see what I can do about the hand grip. jd
    It seems that people who do almost nothing, often complain loudly when it's time to do it.

  15. #35
    Boolit Bub Ironwrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoodat View Post
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    That's what happens when I've got a bead blaster and a can of yellow equipment enamel.

    I've got three or four of those RCBS Reloader Specials that I picked up for next to nuthin, and I'm thinking of making one red, and one blue. Then I could put a note in each die box saying which press they're adjusted for. I'll have to see what I can do about the hand grip. jd
    I was just foolin’. I actually think it looks great.


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  16. #36
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    After the beed blast, what about a clear coat ?

    Might start a new trend of “No Color presses” !

    Mike

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1hole View Post
    In my OPINION, split lock rings with a clamping screw like those Forster/Hornady use are by far the best ring design. They lock positive but total release is easy and they can't jack up the die body threads like stupid (cheep) set screws do; what's not to love?
    One way not to mess up the threads with set screws is to remove the set screw put in a couple #8 lead BB’s and replace the screw. This way the steel screw never contacts the die threads but holds its setting.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy View Post
    One way not to mess up the threads with set screws is to remove the set screw put in a couple #8 lead BB’s and replace the screw. This way the steel screw never contacts the die threads but holds its setting.
    Yeah, but it also smears lead into the threads, rendering the the threads tight and the ring very hard to move. I prefer a small piece of copper from an electrical line.
    Wayne the Shrink

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  19. #39
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Now, I want some opinions on whether to keep the Spartan, or the Texan.
    Keep them both, your not going to make much selling either and you will never 2nd guess your decision.

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Smith View Post
    Yeah, but it also smears lead into the threads, rendering the the threads tight and the ring very hard to move. I prefer a small piece of copper from an electrical line.
    There it is; use bits of copper, NOT lead or plastic, under a lousy set screw. But, even that's only a way to reduce the stupid set screw issue, it sure doesn't eliminate it!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check