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Thread: For folks who have doing this for at least 25 years

  1. #81
    Boolit Grand Master
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    One of the reasons I started this thread was for those folks new to reloading and casting. They are inundated with recommendations and some advice comes from people who have little experience...then there are those that have 1 years of experience 30 times over.

    People starting out do not know if they will stay with the hobby and most tend to start "small" like many of us did. Some drop out and some continue to develop. Equipment is rarely the relevant factor in making ammunition better and less expensive than store bought.

    Also, for the new crop of reloaders and casters, bear in mind we did not have the internet or forums like this. The upside is that we learned from books and magazine articles or by "just doing it". The downside is we did not have a resource like this forum....which is one of the best you can come to for advice if you know who to listen to.

    Use the vast knowledge here wisely. Many talented folks have travelled the road you are starting.

    My personal experience is to purchase the best equipment you can afford. You can see from this thread it will last a lifetime and even if you decide to drop out, it will retain its value and you lose very little if you sell it. But if you stay in the hobby, you have the pleasure of using a fine tool for decades. Lastly, steer clear of unproven equipment. Many folks got burned by the Lee Pro1000 and I got burned by the RCBS Green Machine. Even good companies can put out junk. And junk is not fun to use.

    I have been at this for almost 45 years and I could never have developed as a shooter without reloading and casting as skill sets. Except for that damn Green Machine, and a few gimmicks that were less than $100, I have no regrets about the thousands of $$$ I have invested over the years.

    Enjoy your journey...it is yours...not mine or someone else's. The precision shooter will travel a different path than an IPSC competitor. As will the person who produces less 2000 rounds a year.
    Don Verna


  2. #82
    Boolit Buddy Gun-adian's Avatar
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    Started in about 1990 with a used RCBS RS2 press and .223 dies set after I bought my first AR. Acquired more guns after that and the assorted reloading gear for each new caliber. Moved on to progressive presses later. Funny enough, I’m back to a single stage turret because I don’t shoot as much as I used to when I was single and childless. Now reloading is a relaxing thing for me to do after dinner as I build up the stockpile.

    I got into reloading because I thought it would “save” money. Yeah, right!!! I lost that notion right quick, especially when I started casting in 2001. Lots of Ebay moulds and sizers found their way to me and then I discovered the Lee group buys and finally the works of art by NOE and MP. Sorry, wallet. Bought a couple CH swage die sets too and an old Herter’s Model O boat anchor press to dabble at swaging. Jury’s still out on whether that will continue.

    Powder coating came along in the last few years and that’s where I am now. I can’t remember the last time I actually lubed a boolit.

    I’ve learned lots over the years, especially from this site. Mistakes have been made, lessons have been learned and all my fingers are still attached. I’d call it a win.
    There are precious few horror films that couldn't be cut well short by a single loaded 12 gauge and someone with the sense to use it. -- K.R. Murphy

  3. #83
    Boolit Master
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    I can remember helping my dad load for his 30-06 Springfield in the mid to to late 1950s. He had a round cylinder/die you'd set on the table and pound the case into, then drive the case out with a flat punch, that was only for the cases that wouldn't chamber in his rifle. I got to do that, and weigh the powder charges, I think he used a Lyman 310 to neck size and seat the bullets.
    If I'm remembering correctly, I got my Rockchucker in the early 70's, then moved on to a Dillon 550 when my sons started shooting in the late 90's. The old Rockchucker is still bolted to the bench and used, I just couldn't keep up with two boys with 38 specials or 9mm's. Casting started about the same time, I couldn't keep up with bullet prices either.
    Now it's the Rockchucker, a Dillon 550, four Star lubesizers, five shotgun presses, I don't know how many moulds, shelves full of primers, powder, bullets, cast boolits, thousands of empty cases, enough loaded ammo to equip an army.....I've saved a ton of money reloading.
    Uh-huh.
    All that being said, the pleasure derived from this hobby......priceless!!! No regrets, wouldn't change anything.

  4. #84
    Boolit Master
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    Pretty much the same way I've been doing it for about 48 years. With the exception of a Dillon 550 for pistol (mostly 45acp) and a elderly Rockchucker for rifle both jacketed and cast bullets. Did get both the big Dillon & small one for rifle and pistol cases and ground corncob media. Have a old Lyman 20 pound pot and a Lee as well. Cast bullets for my rifles in 7.62x54r, and 45/70, 30-30. Frank

  5. #85
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    This a topic I can expound on for days. I started with a Lee Loader in .243 in 1971. Evolved to a Rockchucker in 1978. Never saw a need for another single stage press,,, until I made my tool!

    I have had many other "Semi Progressive" Machines like PW Metal Masters, and a C&H 444. Still have the 444 but don't use it much at all as my Hand Press is just as fast and way more comfortable to operate sitting at the table in the house as opposed to standing in the shop.

    Originally had a Thumbler's Rotary Tumbler but sold it at a Garage sale cuz I thought I was getting out of Reloading. Got 2 Thumbler's Vibratory Tumblers in a trade adn have been using them ever since. Bought another rotary tumbler 10 or so years ago and just took it out of the box last week to tumble some shotshell hulls. Ruined them, so it will go back in the box and probably on the Swap and Sell soon.

    Originally had an RCBS Trimmer but it sucked because it doesn't use "dead length collets" so length was varying. I only use the simple Lee Trimmers now and have a spud for every caliber I trim. With a drill motor it is as fast or faster than most any other way. I also have alot of Lee Depriming Pins. They work really well when I only need to knock primers out of a few cases or reclaim those cases and recycle the primers. When used with a Sinclair Arbor Press it is easy and safe to remove live primers.

    I bought a Redding #1 scale when I started with teh Lee Loader adn it sits atop my bench and gets used often. I also have a RCBS 1010 that I use if it really really matters. I drop powder into the pan and have a Trickler on the drop tube which IMHO is one of the coolest doodads RCBS ever made, However most of my powder drops go onto a Franklin Digital Scale that is close enough for just about anything I do.

    I have a Dillon 550 B that a friend gave me, and I do all my volume loading on it. IE: .223, 40S&W and .45 ACP. I consider the Dillon Machines to be the best engineered and built loading machines on the market, add to that their excellent service and you have arguably the best company to deal with in the industry.

    I cast alot of boolits for .30, 40, .44, .45, and shotgun slugs. Most of my good moulds are from Mihec adn as a Machinist I can safely say that he makes some of the best machined parts I've ever seen! All of his moulds that I have are a dream to use and everyone has produce a perfect boolit on teh first or second pour! I have other moulds but try to avoid them as they all require some magic spell to get them to work right.

    Been Powder Coating all my Pistol and Big Bore Rifle Boolits for a couple of years and consider that to be the best way to treat them never any leading and cleaning consists of running one dry patch thru the bore to clean out the powder residue from the last shot. it doesn't get any better than that.

    For shotshell loading I have 3 machines, a 12 ga Pacific DL366 Progressive, and .410 and 12 ga DL266 single stage machines. I use these to load short runs of shells and all my slugs and buckshot loads. I consider the DL266's to be the best single stage loaders ever made. YMMV. I also have a pre/Lee Shot Shell Loader that I recently figured out how to make work right.

    Of all the machinery I have, I use my little hand press the most and for loading 50-100 round batches I can load as fast or faster than anyone with a regular single stage press. My record is 200 .30 Cal. Carbine rounds in <2 hours.

    So yes,,, I have Evolved, and everybody who does this for any length of time will too. There are new things to try coming out everyday. To ignore them just because you are set in your ways, is not very forward looking.

    You should be trying to make every round you load the best round you have ever loaded! And thinking, that already occurred 30-40 years ago and nothing has changed is just plain stupid.

    There is a saying,,, "Change is Inevitable!" And that is a fact that applies to everything.

    You asked?

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  6. #86
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I hung up my Lyman dipper and Coleman stove for a bottom pour electric furnace some 20 plus years ago. Other than that, it is the same processes with better tools.
    ”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn

    My Straight Shooters thread:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter

    The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks

  7. #87
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I switched from a balance scale and dipper to electronic scale or Hornady Automatic but still use the dippers for plinking.
    Started coating and think I'll go that route but I'll not get rid of the alox, beeswax etc.
    I did get a Lee ez trim thing for Christmas and it is pretty darn good. Got the trimmers for all my calibers.
    I picked up a Lee Turret 4 hole and use it a little but 95% of my reloads are done on an O single stage which is an upgrade from the Lee Hand Press which is an upgrade from the Lee whack a mole's I used when I started. Over 30yrs later I still have those Whack A Mole's just in case
    Everything else is pretty much the same including powders. Tried many over the years but keep coming back to Unique, Red Dot, 2400 and H110. Rifle 3031 and 4064. Can't think of much I can't load with those.

    I started casting when I joined here. Bought a used lee bottom pour and still use it. Still use single and double cavity moulds.
    Last edited by jonp; 08-02-2021 at 10:22 AM.
    I Am Descended From Men Who Would Not Be Ruled

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  8. #88
    Boolit Master

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    I have considered writing an article for the Fouling Shot about my adventures, progress in bullet casting.

  9. #89
    Boolit Master


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    Can't remember if I have posted here, or before. Forgive me if this is a duplicate. I started reloading in 68 or so. Spent some time with my rich Uncle Sam, came back and didn't need reload, as I was with a LEO agency which provided ammo, some of which I still have. Got back into reloading in 94-95, casting, 2009. Started casting 1967-68, again, laid off for a bit. Have all sorts of boolits cast and lubed, just need to find more range time.
    One of my father's favorite statements: "If I say a chicken dips snuff, look under his wing for the snuffbox" How I was raised, who I am.

  10. #90
    Boolit Buddy
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    I started casting with a Lee 240 gr SWC in the late 70's...I also only used they're hand tools at first (pound em in pound em out). my loads were highly accurate for my DW, but then I only had access to 25 yards max. Over the years I have bought more molds, some custom, added a PID and toyed with alloys, powders,case length, seating depth, bullet diameters....after all isn't that half the fun. Best advice I have is to take your time...and look around the web, especially here as there is more information than I'll ever be able absorb. Oh and if it shoots good in your smoke wagon leave it alone....or you will be that one surfer who goes out in the hurricane in search of the wave that never ends.

  11. #91
    Boolit Buddy
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    I also gradually went to a Lee turret press. I now have a Dillon 550 with some bells and whistles as well as an RCBS single stage for my 45-110/45-7- rifles and BP.

  12. #92
    Boolit Master
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    I started loading on a RCBS RC II kit about 30 years ago. Found the single stage painfully slow for pistol ammo so bought a Dillon 550. As a young (and less wise) handloader I saw no need for the rockchucker and I sold it - big mistake! Got around to replacing it with a Lee classic cast a little while later on. Funny how I have a real low opinion of some Lee equipment (beam scale, cheap progressives) and a high opinion of others (classic cast press, factory collet-style crimp dies). Fast forward to an older & wiser self I would more likely sell the Dillon than the single stage. Anyhow, I've not delved into newer advancements such as powder coat and pin tumbling because about 10 years ago the machine tool bug bit hard. Been blowing the hobby budget on lathes, mills, surface grinders and tooling. As much as one can spend as many hours as there are in a day casting & handloading, machining seems like that X10!

  13. #93
    Boolit Buddy
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    I started in late 70's and early 80's with my father loading rifle ammo. I used his Pacific C press back then. I probably used a MEC 600 Jr. .410 loader more than anything at that time. I still don't cast a lot, except where required, but I have come to appreciate having the ability to cast my own, particularly given the recent shortages. He got a LEE 3 turret press at some point, and it was used to mainly seat and crimp bullets where the old C-press was still full length sizing. We mainly weighed charges with an RCBS 5-10.

    When I got out on my own, my father "assembled" me a starter kit of sorts with a LEE single stage (the really cheap one, less than a Challenger, he had bought a kit of LEE stuff and kept a lot of the pieces). He scrounged up some 38 special dies and a shellholder, and a few other things like a No. 55 powder measure. It was slow but kept me going. With that first job came a Lyman T-Mag II on sale, and some carbide dies for that 38 special, and 45 Colt. I cleaned brass in gatorade bottles with a little soap if I really needed to. Yeah I had to rinse them and let them dry for days, but oh well. Then somewhere in there a person gave my father a bunch of reloading equipment they had gotten and decided they didn't like reloading. So that kinda got split up-which led to me a Lyman 1200 tumbler and RCBS 5-0-5 scale (I had used a LEE scale for a while). Around 1996 or so, I wanted a Dillon 550 as I was shooting a bunch of 45 ACP and you could load it for under $3 a box. I was shooting 100-200 rounds a week, and while you can do this single stage, it was a great investment and a lot easier. I started with you guessed it, a 38 special conversion, 45 Colt, and 45 ACP on that Dillon

    I then started getting into rifles that needed brass forming, so I added a RCBS Rockchucker for this. When I started running our of space, and my father really liked my Lyman T-Mag II, I sent it home "on loan" to him for him to use, which he still does. I did try to recollect it from him a few years later but asked if he could keep it as he liked how the front was open. I found me a used one to replace it. He still uses his Pacific C press for sizing (that's over 50 years and probably 60).

    I did get a Hornady LnL progressive (have it still-priming works on mine but not as good as a Dillon) when they first came out (too expensive now in my opinion but was a good deal then and I was able to cost justify this one). I have a Dillon 650 as well (still gotta make some mroe ammo with this one to cost-justify. Components have been a problem).

    So it's a progression. I try to justify ammo savings with each purchase, but some were just flat necessary as you can't buy ammo in those calibers. The cost justification was nearly always done when I was younger, now it's more of a hobby. There are simply some pieces of equipment I may never cost justify. I was nearly never to cost justify 9mm Luger FMJ ammo (I could save, but it was so little, and not a lot of the ammo I shot), so I never loaded it. 45 Colt or 44 Special is a way different story. Not to mention your loaded ammo is frequently better.

    But one thing sticks well in this thread-try to buy quality. I started with LEE and they make great tools for the money. Still have most of it or passed it to someone that is using it. And their dies can't be beat for odd calibers though they are not my favorite they work quite well.

    If I really had to do it over again, and money was not an object, the equipment I would have bought first and not replaced later was:

    --RCBS Rockchucker (replaced that LEE single stage)-any similiar good press would be ok, Lyman Crusher, Hornady, or maybe even LEE Cast (have not used one). Point is you always need a GOOD single stage press.
    --RCBS 5-0-5 Scale (replaced the LEE scale). You need a GOOD scale (I prefer mechanical-you can get an electronic later).
    --LEE Universal Shellholder set. I bought this early on and have not regretted it. It usually has the shellholder you need. Only a few of them are too loose for a particular caliber.
    --LEE Dippers-I used them to get close on weighing charges on the scale, and then trickled in powder. I started by just tapping into the scale. I did make some custom dippers out of brass cases trimmed to length for common charges.
    ---powder trickle-to go with above. I'm not really set on brand here, I have an RCBS, it was what was available or on sale.
    --Good powder measure-I started with that Lyman 55 and still have it. It will measure all the way down to tiny loads with the top slide-if you own one you understand. I really like it, however, they frustrate a lot of people as they don't take the time to understand it. I'd get a Hornady, RCBS, or Lyman rotary measure, probably not a Lyman 55 for most people. This speeds up the loading the most before you go progressive.

    Lastly, you don't have to have a tumbler, you just don't want grit in and on your brass.

    Don't forget to buy used, but you probably should have some experience before doing this. You can get burned pretty easy (press or ram that's bent, etc.).

    Right now components are the biggest issue-primers mainly, then brass (to a degree-never throw away brass generally), powder, and bullets in that order.

  14. #94
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    1970 was when I decided to quit just dabbling and give it a go one thing now that I am more mature casting is a bottom pour furnace swaging is done on a converted harbor freight shop press with home made fittings I do not fight this hobby anymore I make it work like it is easy.

  15. #95
    USMC 77, USRA 79


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    1976 was a very good year for me. met a guy named denny, got me into reloading with a spartan, and some 357 cases.. we also made quite a few 50 cal cannons for noise makers! he also introduced me to making Flash powder.. that got me in trouble a few times!!!! i went in to the military and started playing with all sorts of new toys and equipment!! C-4 became my best buddy for a while. that was a long time ago it seems like.
    Any technology not understood, can seem like Magic!!!

    I will love the Lord with all my heart, all my soul, and all my mind.

  16. #96
    Boolit Master

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    I started out with a lee 4# pot a Lyman Ladle & a 2 cavity Lyman 454-424 mold. I got a Lyman Spartan press and a Lyman scale and then got a RCBS Lube/sizer. I still have all that equipment.
    the Little pot still works and I have cast piles of bullets with that little pot. All of this was in the late 70's. I still use the old Lyman press but mostly for rifle cartridges. I started shooting
    Bullseye matches in about 2004 and it was hard to keep up with the ammo demand shooting 2 matches a month. I found a guy getting rid of his reloading stuff and bought him out.
    in the deal was a Dillon 550B and everything that goes with it. I got it for a song, well almost he was asking $350 and there was at least $1500 worth of Dillon extras.

    Since the early days of that 4# pot, I have a Lee 4-20 bottom pour & have graduated to Pro-Melt. The molds have 2, 4, 6 & 8 cavities now and have multiplied like rabbits.

  17. #97
    Boolit Master


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    I've made changes. When i started reloading I only did single stage and only used rcbs gear. I had a manual case trimmer, a single beam scale and no powder thrower. and hand held case prep tools. I didn't load handgun, only rifle. If I loaded cast it was commercial cast I bought. When i started casting I only went with tumble lube designs.

    Along the way I added more press's.. went to turrets for faster production and spare tool heads to keep from changing out dies. Only started with a few calibers.. now I reload for dozens and dozens. Move up to motorized case trimmers, motorized case prep stations, added 2 more beam scales and a digital scale and have had/have digital scale / powder dispensers. Started with kinetic hammer puller only.. now do collet pulling as well. I rarely buy commercial cast bullets except at scrap lead price if I find bulk boxes cheap at yard sales..e tc. I cast my own.. started moving ito gas checking and pan lubing . Tried powder coating.. didn't like it.. have tried other types of lubes and coatings... practiced with making my own lube.. like that better than most commercial lubes except I still use alox and rooster jacket. Added more tools.. extra priming tools.. bullet cannelure cutters, etc. More press.. more stations. I still vibro tumble clean with a veriety of different media depending on what I am cleaning.. though also do ultrasonic cleaning too. Havn't bought a jacketed bullet in a long time.. actively trying to cast for everything I load for.

  18. #98
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    Bion I started with a RCBS Rock Chucker outfit purveyed mail order by Gander Mountain back in the late 1960s, complemented with needed accessories (primer tray, scales, trickler, etc.) from another mail order outfit, Herters. I "moved" to semi-auto (.38 S&W Special) Bullseye competition shooting, and the single stage seemed too slow for me. Hence, I moved to a 4-station Lyman All-American. Then... up to a Dillon 550B amassing ten different tool-heads.
    However, with (my) age the desire for more precision began to outweigh production speed (for me!!!), and guess what? I've returned to single stage loading for most. I believe the MEC Marksman (https://www.mecoutdoors.com/mec-marksman) is the best single stage press ever, and -- complemented with a Forster Co-Ax, do perhaps all my loading using these two. (I seem to use the Dillon progressive now just for .38 S&W Special, 10mm Auto, .380 Auto, and .45ACP)
    Vis accuracy, I really had become super-OCD (Obsessive Compulsive) re run-out, and the MEC Marksman produces ammo for me with barely measurable numbers. I have three different gauges to check this, and -- again -- the MEC is the clear winner.
    The only other significant change I've made, in retrospect, is my picking up both an RCBS electronic powder dispenser, and Hornady's lock 'n load Powder Measure (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4ULfR-OcFA) which -- for lack of a better word -- is AWESOME, PLUS!!!
    geo

  19. #99
    Boolit Buddy
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    I started with an old cast iron pot that a plumber gave me, and used a bent spoon for a ladle. I did graduate to a lee bottom pour pot many years ago, but not much else has changed. The old stuff still works for my needs.

  20. #100
    Boolit Master
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    I started casting boolits in ~1972; reloading in ~1974. Memory is getting vague.

    A beginner needs to regard reloading equipment in somewhat the same way as a computer purchase. What do you want to do now, and what might you want to do in the future? Added to this is the mandate for safety, since you are messing around with energetic materials that might, as a worst case, get into the hands of some ignoramus.

    In this regard, a work-horse, single-station press with compound leverage and provision for any caliber or gauge you might want to load for, is the way to go for starters. In my case, it was an RCBS Rockchucker. This press will load any caliber you can find dies for (including shotshells, in a pinch), can size lubed boolits through the proper dies, can form unavailable cartridge cases out of available ones, and can swage bullets. It is also “slow” enough in operation so the beginner has to pay attention to every step in the process and experience and learn to spot the aberrations and problems that can come up in every step. He has to pick up every shell for every operation, which is the way to find neck cracks, stretch marks or loose primer pockets for discarding.

    This last is not a minor consideration. How soon we forget the startup troubles we had, and how quickly we now just “do it.” I used to read the SASS website a lot, and it seemed that everyone who asked about reloading got recommended a progressive press for starters. Then the odd reports started coming in of guns blowing up in matches. Not many, of course, but the post hoc maybe propter hoc aspect was suspicious, to me at least. I go plinking once a week or so with a bunch of machine-gun enthusiasts, who have rooms full of progressive presses feeding the guns. These people have an impressive sixth sense as to when an underloaded round has a bullet stuck in the barrel, or an improperly-crimped one is stuck in the chamber. If it was me, there’d be a stack of bullets in a split barrel and smashed rounds feeding against the stuck ones, but they are grizzled veterans of the reloading wars and “just know.” In the course of an afternoon’s shooting, there seem to be plenty enough of these occurrences to indicate a small but finite chance of real disaster upon a tyro, if he was the one running the loading machines and firing the product in his gun.

    A beam scale and a loading block are the next “must-haves.” You need to get a sense of the size of charges and the look of powders. Speed is a very remote consideration at this point, as it is in learning quick-draw or how to drive a car. A flashlight to look into every charged shell is needed here, too. A powder measure will likely be needed down the line, but not now.

    The beginner should get a case trimmer and a caliper and look in the handbook (that he should have bought before getting anything else) for trim and maximum lengths. Most of the “ka-poofs” I have experienced are from shells that lengthened excessively. The “correct” powder charge flattened and loosened primer pockets, rendering the shells useless, and causing flinching that compromised the rest of the shooting session. No “ka-booms” so far, at least with the ammunition I’ve reloaded myself, but eternal vigilance is the price of good reloads.

    Most beginning reloaders go through a stage of trying to get super-Magnum performance out of whatever it is they’re reloading; it compounds the already hazardous condition of ignorance. But hazards are to be managed and minimized, rather than bulled through or run screaming from. This is the best way to do it.

    There are, of course, those who bought a progressive machine for starters and have reported no problems. Lucky them. I’m kind of fascinated by human-powered machines in general, and am an inveterate souvenir-collector at gun shows, so have accumulated an excessive amount of loading equipment, just for curiosity. It goes from hammer-and-vise hand tools to tong tools to turrets (no progressives) and I use them all on occasion, but the ones I go back to when I’m developing smokeless loads are the RCBS press, the beam scale and the loading block and flashlight.

    My go-to powder measure for established loads is a Belding&Mull for smokeless and an Ideal #5 for black powder. The design of these prevents (in the first case) and minimizes (in the second) the bridging of powder, which can deliver half a charge in one case and 1-1/2 charges into the next one. The crank measures with long tubes and narrow, deep holes are very prone to this. A friend concocted a cartridge that blew up his .45 Colt Single Action when he started using one, and I am glad the Harrell’s Precision measure I load one of my varmint rifles with has a clear plastic drop tube that allows me to see the short charges of 3031 followed by the stiffer charges as they loosen and fall through. If I miss it, the flashlight and loading block catches it.

    Of course, my background was in “energetic materials,” and the practice of never letting a percentage point go in the pursuit of safety has no doubt carried over into this hobby. But I have been reloading for a ridiculous amount of years, and this is the advice I’d give anyone starting out, from my experience.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check