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Thread: Copper fouled barrel in M1D Garand

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Linstrum's Avatar
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    Copper fouled barrel in M1D Garand

    This is the first time I have had to deal with really heavy copper fouling. I already did a search on removing copper fouling, and did a lot of reading. I'm a chemist, and know about using strong ammonium hydroxide solution that selectively reacts with copper to help remove it. In the M1, I'm aware of plugging the gas port when filling the barrel with liquids.

    I just picked up an M1D from a young guy who didn't know what he had or what it was worth. His grandfather passed away some years ago and left him his CMP M1D that has the scope and mount, bayonet, and field cleaning kit that goes inside the butt. The flash hider got lost, though. The receiver has not been re-Parkerized, there aren't any import marks, the operating rod is stamped NM for National Match, it has the CMP carrying case with egg crate foam lining, and there are several enbloc clips. About not knowing what he had, he shot it a lot for years without ever cleaning the barrel. I checked the operating rod and it is not bent from using heavy hunting load type ammunition, thank goodness!

    I already put in a lot of time wearing out several bronze brushes, using kerosene to wash out the crud. I've had a few milsurps with copper fouling that I used Bon Ami scouring powder and water to get cleaned out, which worked pretty fast. But nothing like this barrel.

    So, is there anything else besides ammonium hydroxide solution, wearing out bronze brushes, and using Bon Ami scouring powder, plus making my arms hurt, on getting this collector's item rifle barrel cleaned out that is messed up with heavy copper fouling?

    I've owned an M1 Garand since 1981, which I put a new GI barrel in myself, back when the original barrels were still available.

    Thanks!
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  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Considering the rarity and value of the gun have you considered sending it back to the CMP to have them go over it? After all, there are no gunsmiths around that know more about Garands than those at the CMP.

  3. #3
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    ShooterAZ's Avatar
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    Sweet's 7.62 Solvent is what I use for serious copper fouling. Yes, plug the gas port and remove the bolt so you can flush the solvent out after cleaning. Be sure to follow the directions, it should not be left in the bore for long periods of time!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master starnbar's Avatar
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    You got any G I bore cleaner? It will work but remember you have got to clean the bore good after using G I stuff it will rust on you in a New York minute

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Years ago I shot over the course matches with my Dad's old M1 NM. One match would show copper fouling pretty heavy just by looking in the muzzle. This is how I would clean it. I drove a 20 penny nail into a stud in my garage so the rifle could hang from it muzzle down by slipping the nail between the sling and buttstock (sling pulled up tight). This would let it hang down at a slight angle which put the gas port at the upper side of the bore. I used a bore guide made for the M1 to prevent wear from the cleaning rod. The nail was at a height that left the action at about eye level. With the action open I would slip the rod up through the bore from the muzzle and then would thread the patched jag onto it by spinning the rod. Then I would pull the rod out of the bore. What was accomplished by this method was;
    1. Only a minimal if any solvent can get into the port opening.
    2. Pulling on the rod eliminates it bowing and contacting the bore under pressure as it would if the patch was pushed through.
    3. Muzzle down eliminates bore cleaner seeping into the action and softening the bedding or stock.
    4. No disassembly of the weapon required.
    I would run a couple passes with bore cleaner, (I was using Hoppe's #9 which I understand has since been re-formatted and may not work as well on copper). Then I would roll up one of the wet patches and push it in the muzzle to plug that end. I would put a fired case in the chamber and close the bolt. I would let the rifle hang a day and repeat the process. 2 or 3 cycles would eliminate the "green" on the patch. Leaving the bore wet and plugged very much increased the efficiency of the bore cleaner, reducing the number of cycles required.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Sweets 7.62 will remove it.

  7. #7
    Boolit Man
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    Greetings,

    I cleaned GrandPa's old 03-A3 with an Outer Foul Out electronic cleaner. It took quite a while to remove all the Copper; but, it did come clean.

    Cheers,

    David

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I tried a lot of stuff to remove copper. Yeah, the ammonia solution will work but it takes a LONG time with bad fouling.

    But, I tried KG-12 one time and was hooked. When you can swab the bore and watch the copper dissolve it is worth it. Also does not need an overnight soak with bad fouling. Every few minutes or so you swab the bore with a fresh patch of the solvent until the copper is gone.

    There are now a few other non-ammonia copper removers out there. Have not tried them since KG-12 works so well for me.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Bore Tech Cu+2 Copper Remover and lose the brass brush.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
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    Gtek beat me to it, but I was going to suggest Bore Tech Eliminator. That stuff eats copper and doesn't have ammonia in it. Use with aluminum cored plastic brushes or it will destroy your brush.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy Cast10's Avatar
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    So my dad had a Winchester Model 100 in 308. Thatís an older semi-auto. It had lots of ball ammo shot through it over the years. It began flinging shots and even blowing the op rod off. Was told that it was shot out and so he put it away back in the 80ís. I got my hands on it believing I could revive it. It was heavily copper fouled. I spoke with a man in my circle who makes barrels/rifles.

    Foaming bore cleaner in the barrel and let it set 10 min. Clean with patches. Repeat. Use a brush along the way. Clean with patches until they come clean/white. It took me 92 patches and two brushes! Straightened the op rod and receiver forks, assembled and it has been firing fine ever since.!!!!!!

    Youíll also realize you need to do it on other rifles as the accuracy deteriorates. Donít get rid of the firearm!

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Same stuff, gold boar on black bottle. Very impressed with product but have not figured out how to protect threaded end collar on Dewey.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

    nicholst55's Avatar
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    I have cleaned up a number of badly fouled milsurps over the years. I would recommend one of the foaming bore cleaners to start with (soaked overnight), just to break the carbon loose. After that, either KG-12 or Bore Tech Eliminator for jacket fouling. You may also need some JB Bore Cleaner (an extremely mild abrasive paste). Just be patient, and don't do anything drastic that you might regret later! You will also doubtless need to clean the exterior of the rifle and relube before you begin shooting it.
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  14. #14
    Boolit Master Win94ae's Avatar
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    You just have to keep at it, I know exactly what you are going through.

    I use Hoppe's 9, rubbing alcohol and penetrating oil to clean my barrels. I clean with the Hoppe's on the brush 10 or so swipes let sit for few minutes another 10 swipes, run a dry patch.
    Do the same with the brush and oil, then again with the alcohol. Repeat until it is clean.

    Last edited by Win94ae; 06-14-2021 at 12:26 AM. Reason: typo

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    I've used Butch's bore shine to clean the copper fouling in my Ruger American compact rifle in 7.62x39 and an elderly Chilean short rifle in 7mm Mauser. Works by chemical means so cuts down on the bore brushing and patches. Wet a patch (I use a chemical lab type bottle with spout) and stroke it back and forth. Don't know what Ruger used for ammo but probably some eastern block junk. Frank

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    Like others have said sweets 762 solvent and use a nylon bore brush. When the patches quit coming out blue the copper is gone just be sure to oil the bore when you're done.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    Bore Tech Eliminator and Pro-Shot Cu Remover work better than Sweet's for me, are safer on the steel and have a lower chance of doing bore damage when left in the bore. Hoppe's BENCHREST (not the old #9) works well and is safe to leave in the bore. Some of the newer solvents DO WORK BETTER than the 'old standards'.

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy Eddie1971's Avatar
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    Sweets is best I found for copper fouling. No need to damage the barrel with a bore brush over and over again.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    That's why the non-ammonia copper removers are so good. Don't use a brush at all. Just a patch.

    PS IF the bore has heavy powder fouling that is best removed first. Then the copper solvent works better.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master

    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    I got one like that awhile back. It had been fired until the accuracy fell off from never being cleaned.

    I wasn't in a rush, so just to see what would happen-
    No bore brushing, but I ran a patch soaked with Hoppe's #9 in & out every day until it no longer turned green.

    It took right at three months, and the barrel finally looked new again.
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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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GC Gas Check