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Thread: Use adhesive for peep sight on lever rifle?

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy JLF's Avatar
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    Cyano cm1
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    Quote Originally Posted by JLF View Post
    Cyano cm1
    Nothing comes up when I search the web for this.
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  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    Consider using the product used to glue rear view mirrors to windshields. It’s designed to stick to a hard smooth surface. Most glues and epoxies recommend roughing up the mating surfaces. You probably wouldn’t want to do that, if you may be removing it.
    Wow, this is an old thread. Good call Greg.

    Loctite makes a kit for reattaching your mirror which is certainly heavier than an aluminum peep sight. I mounted the sight (finally) the other day and it seems quite sturdy. Will advise if I run into any problems when U get to the range.
    Founder of the Single Shot section.

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  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by cabezaverde View Post
    Has anyone used adhesive to attach a peep sight to a lever gun?

    I know D&T is the proper way to do this, but I want to see if I like the setup before spending the money.
    If you just want to mount the sight to see if you like it or not --I would use hot melt glue, it wont last but will clean off easily -----something like JB Weld for a permanent job

    I fixed a stuffed crankcase gasket in my huskvarna mower (30 hp B & S Motor) - cleaned it, filled the crack with a mix of cheap super glue and bicarb soda, then applied J B Weld over the top - that stuff sticks pretty good!

  5. #45
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cabezaverde View Post
    Williams 94/36 on a .357 Rossi 92.

    Winchester 94's and Wincher 92's had identical sights as issued from the factory, ergo the same designated sight will fit clone Model 92's - some of which, like the Browning 92 will need a D/T for the receiver sight, along with a front sight taller than the issue front sight blade (to achieve zero).

    BTW, around 1970, I epoxied sights on several of my friend's 12ga shotguns (for deer hunting in our shotgun-only state) - and AFAIK they are still using them for hunting w/o any issues, like coming loose.
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  6. #46
    Boolit Master fastdadio's Avatar
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    I glued a 2 3/4" picatinny rail forward of the rear sight on my Hawken. I used the Loctite 380. Worked great and can be removed with moderate heat leaving no trace, which I did do once. I mounted a red dot reflex type sight on it and it works great.
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  7. #47
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    Loctite 380 Black Max will work as will JB Weld. JB Weld is easier to get and easier to use. Loctite 380 is a 'super glue' that sets very quickly and is much more expensive than JB Weld. Brownell's Acra-Glas will also work but is a little harder to mix properly. Acraglas Gel and Acraglas Steel mix easier and should work too.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by MostlyLeverGuns View Post
    Loctite 380 Black Max will work as will JB Weld. JB Weld is easier to get and easier to use. Loctite 380 is a 'super glue' that sets very quickly and is much more expensive than JB Weld. Brownell's Acra-Glas will also work but is a little harder to mix properly. Acraglas Gel and Acraglas Steel mix easier and should work too.
    This is true for the most part. The important thing to me when gluing a sight base to my Hawken was that it be reversable as in not permanent. When I set my base the first time it was too far off. I was able to remove it with a heat gun and clean the barrel of all residue with no sign of it having ever been there. JB Weld is wicked stuff. Try getting that off your barrel and you will do damage. As far as the cost and availability, it's easily found on line and only cost a few dollars more over other types of adhesives. Black Max 380 is a specialty product intended for this type of use. I would think if you value your firearm, the extra cost is minimal and meaningless in the long run.
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  9. #49
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    I've used JB Weld quite for bedding scope mount bases and bedding receiver sights. For bedding sights and receivers, I use paste wax on the gun and screws. It comes off with heat. I use a propane torch but with care, even with aluminum sights and bases, getting JB Weld off is not particularly difficult. I have reused aluminum scope mount bases bedded with JB Weld, a torch simply burns the JB Weld into char to be wiped of the metal.

  10. #50
    Boolit Master elmacgyver0's Avatar
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    Alien tape?

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by MostlyLeverGuns View Post
    I've used JB Weld quite for bedding scope mount bases and bedding receiver sights. For bedding sights and receivers, I use paste wax on the gun and screws. It comes off with heat. I use a propane torch but with care, even with aluminum sights and bases, getting JB Weld off is not particularly difficult. I have reused aluminum scope mount bases bedded with JB Weld, a torch simply burns the JB Weld into char to be wiped of the metal.
    I would like to try this to bed a scope rail, but I don't have the screws. Rifle has the threaded holes, already. Should the screws be #6-48?

    Any tips on how to get 4 of these screws on the cheap, other than having some leftover because you buy the wrong size of mount all the time?

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by cabezaverde View Post
    Wow, this is an old thread. Good call Greg.

    Loctite makes a kit for reattaching your mirror which is certainly heavier than an aluminum peep sight. I mounted the sight (finally) the other day and it seems quite sturdy. Will advise if I run into any problems when U get to the range.
    Update to this old thread. The Loctite kit and adhesive did not work out.
    Founder of the Single Shot section.

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    8 in the 10 ring, then I get a PING. Love my Garand.

  13. #53
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    I must have missed this thread over the past few years, somehow. Anyway, here is my advice:

    Use a good slow cure epoxy. Most can be removed with a moderate amount of heat from a propane torch, (I have done this) maybe a heat gun (I haven't tried this).

    My problem with JB Weld is that it is gray, and I have read that it is hard to color. Brownell's Acraglas Gel is ridiculously simple to color, and has become my most used firearm epoxy. I usually have some laying around and for mounting a sight, it shouldn't take more than about half a teaspoon.

    I have never had the rearview mirror stuff work for its intended job, so I have never tried it for other uses.

    Robert

  14. #54
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    ive got a gun and the sight was temporarily attached with electrical tape wrapped good and tight. no joke it held the sight in place well enough for testing with about 20 rounds. letting it cool a bit after 2 or 3 at a time

  15. #55
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    Another update. I bought some Gorilla tape today. Will advise on whether it works.
    Founder of the Single Shot section.

    A government big enough to give you everything you want is big enough to take everything you have.


    8 in the 10 ring, then I get a PING. Love my Garand.

  16. #56
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    I put the front sight on my 44WCF single shot carbine in 2018 with JB Weld.
    It’s still there.
    I’m a believer.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #57
    Boolit Master elmacgyver0's Avatar
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    I used JB Weld to put the sights on my old double barrel I'm making into an express rifle.

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Czech_too View Post
    On a 1894CL Marlin which will see infrequent use & only off of a bench, red Loctite.
    Taped off the surrounding area, in case of squeeze out, and the Loctite along with the longer tang screw has held up, so far.
    Double sided tape had to much of a rocking motion, side to side.
    The red Loctite did not hold, so I would not recommend it.
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  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Czech_too View Post
    The red Loctite did not hold, so I would not recommend it.
    Just buy the Loctite 308 Black Max and get on with life. It's made for this type of use and gun smiths use it for a sight adhesive. Removable with heat if necessary.
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  20. #60
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    Preparation is the key to getting good results. the area needs to be clean and properly roughed up to get the ultimate bond strength. The other area a lot mess up on is they clamp to hard and press the glue out. Not leaving enough bond thickness. A cure for this is to add a small amount of .010 grit to the epoxy this provides a bond layer of the proper thickness. I occasionally add a small amount of .010 glass beads to my JB weld. Then glue and clamp once cured it is very solid. I mix the beads to the hardener first then add color if desired and last add the hardener. this gives the most working time. The grit goes a long ways to maintaining a good strong bond.

    ShamBam way lock adhesive has this grit in it. It is meant for gluing turcite on to ways and wear surfaces. It is a long cure epoxy that starts to set in an hour working dry in 24 hours full strength cure in 72 hours. Break down temp is close to 600*. I believe JB weld is around 400*

    I have used some super glues and epoxies to mount and test sights and bases. once set and tested you can spot the holes drill and tap for the screws.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check