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Thread: Fastest 9mm decapping tool

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
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    Capital Region NY
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    680
    Stealing an idea from another forum, process in a regular vibrator with dawn and lemishine, maybe some car wash soap if l remember, primers and all. Drain, Rinse in hot water, then dry in the sun. I never worried about primer pocket cleanliness before, not starting now, nor am I handling dirty brass anymore due to Lead contamination . The polisher has to have a one piece bowl that prevents water dripping down into the motor.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    FA decapper, you can wrap with sports tape to get it to not chew your hand up (Tennis racket tape, bicycle handlebar tape, whatever you can find cheap.) And be sure you keep the allen screw that fastens the decapping pin in place, TIGHT, as otherwise it can fall out then vanish, had that happen and was a bit tough to find the right replacement.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Central VA
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    What Mr Sheesh said. If I were doing what you describe, I would probably use my old Jake Simmons copy of the so-called “Pope style” re- and decapper; but unless you’re involved in the Schuetzen game it’s unlikely you would have one of these. There are several tools of this sort available in the Schuetzen and BP Cartridge Silhouette communities, and even a couple that the BPCS guys use before they throw their forced cases into the soapy water until they’re cleaned. It depends on how far afield you want to go with your search (and how much money you’re willing to $pend.

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    201
    pergoman,

    Not sure why you don't want to deprime on the 650, unless it is the setup time and you are only going to do a few hundred at a time. Depending on which is not being used for something else, I use my 550, Lee Auto Breech Lock, or Hornady Lock N Load AP to deprime because they all have case feeders which is really the key to rapidly depriming a lot of brass in a relatively short period of time. I usually accumulate a year's worth of a fired cases of given caliber and deprime all at one time, so speed/time are important to me.

    Gus Youmans

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Feb 2008
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    Eureka MT
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    I do it the fast way. I clean the cases and then run them through the 550b. They come out clean and shiny on the out side (the only part you can see) and loaded ready to shoot. If I want really fast I don't bother cleaning the cases, just load and shoot. I don't care so much how they look so long as they work.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    196
    I run my brass through the wet tumbler for about a half hour to get the dirt off then I lube and run through a 650 with a fw arms decapping die followed by a sizer and a m die then I tumble for about a hour to polish and remove the lube. This is relatively quick and allows me to use a m die while loading on the little 650 I figure if I’m going to handle the brass to decap it before polishing I may as well size and flare it as well.

  7. #27
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    1
    I use a Frankford Arsenal tumbler. It works great. But I would suggest buying the Media Transfer Magnet if you plan to use the stainless pins. It makes easier work trying to separate them from the cases and cleaning the pins.

  8. #28
    Banned








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    dont understand why you dont want to deprime on your 650. Size and deprime throw them in your solution and when there done reprime charge and seat a bullet. But then i dont see the fascination in brass looking better then it did right out of a box of factory ammo. Also dont see ANY need to have shinny clean primer pockets. I havent cleaned a primer pocket in 30 years. For pistol ammo i take my fired brass throw it in a tumbler tumble it for an hour or so to get it clean (dont worry about pretty) and run it through the dillion and shoot it and repeat. I guess when they start having brass beauty pagents maybe ill change. NOPE thats a bald faced lie.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy Liberty1776's Avatar
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    Dec 2018
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    Totally agree you should decap before wet tumbling. Water flows through and stainless media cleans the primer hole and cleans the interior of the shell.

    The shells drain faster and more completely after the tumble and the couple of rinses you do to clear off the Dawn and Lemi Shine. The water is filthy, proving you really did clean that brass. And they come out beautiful after 90-120 minutes. I like to heat the water to about 125 degrees, too.

    Finally, the shells dry faster with deprimed holes. I dump them onto a towel and pat them dry, then let them finish air drying.

    I have a lightweight open front Lee press permanently set up with a Lee Precision Decapping Die, if I feel like standing at the bench to decap. This of course requires a shell holder for the caliber you're working.

    I also have the Frankfort Arsenal hand decapper tool, if I feel like watching a movie and sitting. Just be ready to have a few spent primers fall to the floor. Most get caught in the little clear container, but you need to empty the thing, and accidents happen. Also, for some unexplained reason, spent primers and loose anvils just escape the thing. Not a big deal.

    The Frankfort Arsenal does not require special shell holders. It comes with three plastic collets that adjust to the size of the shell you're decapping.

    The Lee press is probably a tiny bit faster, but I'm surprised how fast decapping goes with the FA while watching TV.

    Either way, it's tedious.

    I've had problems relying on the decapping pin in some resizing dies. Sometimes the pin holds onto the primer and pulls it back into the shell. No joke. It's a thing. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=primer+sti...t=brave&ia=web

    Worse, the pin pushes the dimple out so the dead primer looks almost okay. Attempting to put a new primer in just pushes the old primer back into the pocket. Now you have a dud round, even after inspection.

    I've found my most reliable ammo starts with unprimed primer pocket holes.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy

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    Jan 2012
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    I bought a Lee APP several months ago and 3000 rounds of 9mm range brass. I also got the 4 tube universal case feeder. I topped that off with a American Accurate Collator from eBay.

    I was having problems with the Universal Decapping Die, replaced that with a Mighty Armory decapping die. Much better results.

    I tried using my old Hornady case feeder, that turned out to be a jam-a-matic with 9mm. (It used to work with 45 ACP.) It was jamming at the top of case feeder, not the APP. I'm sure my Dillon case feeder would work, but it's setup on another press.

    I also upgraded to the Lee roller handle. Better grip and balanced on the press

    It now works fine for decapping my 9mm. Sometimes fast, sometimes slow. I think it depends on your brass quality.
    I have enough brass now, I don't need to process any until I have 1000 or more sitting around. I pick up so much range brass with my own, it's easier just to decap and wet tumble all of it.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check