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Thread: top punch replacement

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    top punch replacement

    I have been sizing some bullets I casted with a mold from Accurate mold. It came with a aluminum top punch that is .300 across its face. The punch was almost impossible to remove after using it for about 300 bullets. I buggered getting it removed. I want to replace it with a flat faced steel punch. Anyone know which Lyman that would be? Or are there other alternatives?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    I use a one inch long section of ¼" rod as a top punch for about 99% of my lubing and sizing. It even works on RN boolits, but I generally use wheel weights as my main alloy.

    Robert

  3. #3
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    I used a 1/4 hex bolt with shoulder for a DIY flat top punch...I faced the head and reduced the diameter with my cheapo china drill press.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by doulos View Post
    I have been sizing some bullets I casted with a mold from Accurate mold. It came with a aluminum top punch that is .300 across its face. The punch was almost impossible to remove after using it for about 300 bullets. I buggered getting it removed. I want to replace it with a flat faced steel punch. Anyone know which Lyman that would be? Or are there other alternatives?
    If you have a Lyman top punch you don't use , just fill the existing cavity with epoxy putty , JB Weld or any Epoxy , let cure then sand / file dead flat ... there you have a flat top punch .
    I usually do this to RN punches because I use SWC and WC mostly ...and in a pinch you can seat RN boolits with a flat punch ... doesn't hurt a thing!
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Seems strange that the punch would have become stuck in the ram. Did you over tighten the hex screw?

  6. #6
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    If you don't want to turn down a 1/4" bolt try a #8 punch for 3118 or 311008. It should be close.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cosmic_Charlie View Post
    Seems strange that the punch would have become stuck in the ram. Did you over tighten the hex screw?
    Mine do on occasion on both Ly and RCBS sizers. I grab them with a pair of pliers around the edge and raise the ram to the top. They eject easily.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  8. #8
    It's a shame that vendors don't describe the contours of these in their catalogs. It turns out it's perhaps the most trivial piece of casting equipment on a lathe, but that's only useful if you have a lathe, I know. I have no idea why someone would make these of aluminum.

    I would look for a mold that has the same approximate nose dimension as yours, and look up the top punch for that mold. Steel punches from RCBS, Lyman, et.al., are a $10 item these days, it seems. (Overpriced, in my opinion.) For cheapest including shipping see used items on eBay.

  9. #9
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    zarrinvz24's Avatar
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    Hollowpoint mold has flat top punches for sale $5. It’s been on my list for some time but the shipping alone is what has stopped me from ordering. I’m going to send two molds in for Erik to HP soon, I’ll have it shipped with them on their return trip.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cosmic_Charlie View Post
    Seems strange that the punch would have become stuck in the ram. Did you over tighten the hex screw?
    This was a top punch that came with a Accurate mold. I finally got it out and had to take a file to it to reduce the diameter a bit. This thing would be a bear to remove without doing that. Maybe I did over tighten the hex screw. But I dont think so. Never had a problem with opther top punches. My Lymans go in and out no problem.
    I already have replacements coming from Grafs.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by doulos View Post
    This was a top punch that came with a Accurate mold. I finally got it out and had to take a file to it to reduce the diameter a bit. This thing would be a bear to remove without doing that. Maybe I did over tighten the hex screw. But I dont think so. Never had a problem with opther top punches. My Lymans go in and out no problem.
    I already have replacements coming from Grafs.
    I got a flat top set coming from Accurate. Will report when I use them.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MT Gianni View Post
    Mine do on occasion on both Ly and RCBS sizers. I grab them with a pair of pliers around the edge and raise the ram to the top. They eject easily.
    Same here ... I have one that was used and left in a 450 for years ... I didn't think I was ever going to get that sap-sucker out ... it still bears the scars of the pliers teeth ...
    The lesson should be ... lube and remove them every so often ... they will get stuck !
    Gary
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  13. #13
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    Hi Doulos,
    To answer your question, SAECO makes a line of top punches that fit the Lyman/RCBS lubesizers. They are steel, and the flat nosed versions are designated by the suffix 200, preceded by the caliber, e.g. 35200, which would fit a 35 caliber bullet. Like I say, the punches are flat across the nose and can be used for any bullet with a flat meplat. I got mine from MidwayUSA, ranging in sizes from 22 to 45 cal.
    Ozonebob

  14. #14
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    Tar Heel's Avatar
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    I use the Accurate top punch. You can watch the bullets auto-center.

    https://youtu.be/IxR3hzUOonM
    Last edited by Tar Heel; 06-25-2021 at 03:51 PM.

  15. #15
    Boolit Bub
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    Have a friend with lathe make you one. Don't ask how I know.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check