release agent caution

[porthos]

have a AYA sxs with a loose forend thet belongs to a friend. wants me to bed it to make the wobble go away. just for kicks, i used neutral KIWI shoe polish suggested by someone/somewhere. i ues acraglas gel for bedding. i don't want to tell you what i had to go thru to get the forearm off. so, beware of using kiwi for a release agent. i'll continue to use what is left of my brownells acra-eez mold release. been out of production for some time.

[LAGS]

Johnson's paste wax is what I have used as a release for many years.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I usually use Tre-Wax from the can, but the blue liquid that Brownell's includes in the kit, or separately, also works well. The thing you have to remember about bedding is that when you clamp or screw the pieces together the bedding compound is under a lot of pressure and any excess has to go somewhere. It will flow into any available nook or cranny, and woe unto the gunsmith who failed to apply whatever is being used as a release agent to these areas. I always apply two coats.

DG

[Mk42gunner]

Lots of waxy or oily things work for release agent. The hard part about using wax, which is what shoe polish really is, is it is hard to tell if you really got two or more complete coats on the metal.

With the blue liquid from Brownell's, at least you can see where it is. Just make sure it is dry all the way through before you mix the epoxy.

Robert

[cwtebay]

I have always just used Vaseline? (Generously applied) any problem with that?

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[Texas by God]

I have always just used Vaseline? (Generously applied) any problem with that?

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I've used axle grease, Pam, car wax, but my favorite is actual release agent.
And don't forget the modeling clay.

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[pietro]

I usually use Tre-Wax from the can, but the blue liquid that Brownell's includes in the kit, or separately, also works well.

The thing you have to remember about bedding is that when you clamp or screw the pieces together the bedding compound is under a lot of pressure and any excess has to go somewhere.

It will flow into any available nook or cranny, and woe unto the gunsmith who failed to apply whatever is being used as a release agent to these areas. .

I use kid's Play Dough to plug any recess' that would cause an interfrence fit after the bedding compound cures.

I apply a single layer of masking tape anywhere on the metal that I desire a clearance, then use paste wax over EVERYTHING ! - letting it dry before proceeding.

By "everything" I mean the top/bottom/sides of ALL the metal, including the Play Dough plugs, and the exterior of the stock - since uncured bedding compound will readily transfer from your fingers to wherever you grasp the stock or the metal being bedded (BT, DT - NTS)

When the bedding is only partially cured is the time to scrape off any squeeze-out with a cutoff wooden tongue depressor (saves a lot of clean-up issues).

.

[waksupi]

If you get one hard to remove, put it in the deep freeze over night. They will usually come lose then. For a stuck rifle, our shop technique was to put a pad on the work bench, and whack the barrel on it.

[jem102]

Johnson's paste wax is what I have used as a release for many years.

My favorite as well usually use two coats

[gwpercle]

When doing your first glass bedding job you will learn it's not as easy as it looks to get things apart .
That accra glass gets in a lot of places and even when slathered in release agent ....if ANY bedding compound gets in or on threads ...threads that hold gun parts together you going to have the devil of a time getting the gun apart . Release agent doesn't automatically release its hold on two parts ...it just means I won't let two flat surfaces stick very hard ... threads ...that stuff releases nothing ... I had to take hammer and chisel and break them out ruining a set of stock screws to a 7.5 Swiss K11.
Beware the barrel bedding compound ... it'll get cha !
Gary

[ogree]

Johnson's paste wax is what I have used as a release for many years.

Been using Johnsons paste wax for 23 yrs. as a release agent without a problem, when dealing with AcraGel......Apply two coats of the paste wax.
It will make life easier.
Lightly buff wax to remove swirls after each application with a lint free cloth.
Apply paste wax to threads and other sharp corners with an old toothbrush.

Good luck.

[deltaenterprizes]

I use kid's Play Dough to plug any recess' that would cause an interfrence fit after the bedding compound cures.

I apply a single layer of masking tape anywhere on the metal that I desire a clearance, then use paste wax over EVERYTHING ! - letting it dry before proceeding.

By "everything" I mean the top/bottom/sides of ALL the metal, including the Play Dough plugs, and the exterior of the stock - since uncured bedding compound will readily transfer from your fingers to wherever you grasp the stock or the metal being bedded (BT, DT - NTS)

When the bedding is only partially cured is the time to scrape off any squeeze-out with a cutoff wooden tongue depressor (saves a lot of clean-up issues).

.

I had Acraglass all over the first rifle that I bedded!
Taught me a hard lesson trying to remove it!
Next one I masked everything!

[country gent]

You also want to test it some if the newer epoxies are made to work thru oils and wax.

[uscra112]

In the '80s I did a lot of fiberglass work for custom motorcycles. Used the what the pros use - polyvinyl alcohol release agent that you spray on and which dissolves instantly in water. Moulds were of course sanded ultra-smooth and waxed. (That stuff would reproduce sanding scratches.) It's cheap (about $18/pint pn Amazon.) Use a recycled kitchen cleaner bottle to spray, but make sure it is absolutely dry before filling it. Best to rinse it out with denatured alcohol to be sure. (Remembering my high school chemistry there.) Practice with it a little first.

https://www.amazon.com/Water-Based-M...7214607&sr=8-2

Once did an unintentional glue-in of a Rem 700. Had only used wax. Fortunately a few months later we had a nasty sub-zero cold snap. Left the gun in the woodshed, and next morning it came right apart.

[ebb]

On the rubber urethane molds we made at work we used a commercial spray mold release called Stoner. Works well on a bedding job but i never trusted any release with just one coat.

[John Taylor]

I used some of the wifes plastic wrap on a barrel and it worked great. Hard part is to get all the wrinkles out.

[curdog007]

It may not be the wood fit up, the fore end iron may be loose on the barrel loop.

[waksupi]

I used some of the wifes plastic wrap on a barrel and it worked great. Hard part is to get all the wrinkles out.

I use electrical tape. Free floats the barrel at the same time! I still put release agent on the tape.