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Thread: How fast can I push it?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master


    Walks's Avatar
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    I use a 5" X 5" Ziploc container, about 1 1/2" tall. A teaspoon of black BB's and half a teaspoon of powder. 50 to 100 bullets at a time depending on caliber. Shake about 30seconds to a minute. Can get about 4-5 batches before I have to add another 1/4 teaspoon of powder.
    I pick the bullets up up individually with CLEAN fingers, taping once on the bottom of container
    to shake off excess powder. Stand up on oven tray covered in non-stick aluminum foil.
    Bake 20min at 400degrees, dump straight into water bucket. Warmed on top toaster oven to start.
    Just like CW says.

    The way that works for Me.
    I HATE auto-correct

    Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.

    My Experience and My Opinion, are just that, Mine.

    SASS #375 Life

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy archeryrob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Gibson View Post
    Might be easier to just lube and shoot them.........
    That is the plan now. I guess luckily I water quenched when casting, for some reason. I would normally cast as soft as possible for hunting applications. The lead was an 11 bhn to start and went up to maybe 16 bhn when I tested one. I pan lubed them with 3:1 deerfat:beeswax and they are still sitting in the lube cake on my bench. I did that shortly after posting. I got 250 or more cast. I will run some with lube and look for leading while killing targets and steel plates.

    Quote Originally Posted by Walks View Post
    I use a 5" X 5" Ziploc container, about 1 1/2" tall. A teaspoon of black BB's and half a teaspoon of powder. 50 to 100 bullets at a time depending on caliber. Shake about 30seconds to a minute. Can get about 4-5 batches before I have to add another 1/4 teaspoon of powder.
    Okay, I used way too much powder and BB's then. Maybe more is not better. Are you using sandwich bags?

  3. #23
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    I have used them, but you might want to double bag if they get tumbled for too long.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    BLL Bens liquid lube. Ludmark liquid floor wax (used to use Johnsons but it was discontinued) and alox (LLA). A few drops in a container and ~ 50 bullets, shake a bit and let dry. Much easier than cooking down johnsons paste wax and less smokey. I use it for rifle when I don't have PCd laying around, use 2 coats.
    Whatever!

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Powder coating is simple if you use the correct supplies and follow the basic instructions. If you use the wrong container, wrong powder or wrong curing temp it will result in failure.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy archeryrob's Avatar
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    I got two powder by the pound colors blue and red. The red worked fine and I had not used it was I was only going to use it for hunting rounds and HP for the 9mm as protection rounds. So the girls know loading red for defense and any other color for targets. My blue appeared to be a bit clumpy to me. Seems it collected humidity in it and won't stick. Someone I know gave me small samples of his powder and it stuck just fine and so did my red. I am assuming it came from PBTP with the moisture in it as it happened as soon as I dumped some in a container and tried it. Maybe I just wasn't careful enough, but I haven't complained to them as i can rule out I didn't screw this up myself. I bough some desiccant packs and tape them to the lid to keep the red dry and hoping I can save the blue.

    I am almost done with my daughters 4th coop and got lots of other stuff to get through. I got lubed naked gas checked rounds and red powder coated gas check rounds to load and try out in the 30-30. Now that I got that figured out and got a plain based 147 RN 9mm mold from MP to run some more for power coating.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master

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    It seems that whenever I get the urge to try PC, a thread like this pops up. I've been using Javelina and BLL for so long, I don't know why I'd want to change, but every once in a while I do get the thought to try PC. Maybe someday......
    "We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"

    unknown

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy
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    Powder coating came along about 20 years after I had settled into my routine for cast bullet shooting. OP asked how fast can he push it, so I will address that.

    I shoot 9mm, 38, 357, .40, .44, and .45 handguns with cast bullets. No particular concerns about velocities; properly fitted bullets with good lubricant are capable of just about anything a handgun can do.

    I shoot several rifle calibers with cast bullets, ranging from .25-20 through .45-90. I will focus on .30 caliber because that will best address the OP's question. In .30 I use 150-grain RNFP, 170 RNFP, and 180-RN (all with gas checks) for loading .30-30, .300 Savage, .308 Win, and .30-06 Spfd. My usual alloy is 50% WW and 50% linotype for a BHN of about 18. Air cooled, no quenching. Run through a lubri-sizer with .309" die (as-cast diameter) applying the gas checks and NRA-formula Alox lube.

    .30-30 is loaded with 150-RNFP to 2300 FPS and 170-RNFP to 2100 FPS. Both the .300 Savage and .308 Win like the 170-RNFP at 2200 FPS. The .30-06 will take the 170 and 180-grain bullets to 2400 FPS easily. In all cases the use of powders within the middle of appropriate burning rates for that caliber have given best results. H-335, BL-C2, 3031, and 4895 have been my usual choices when loading to at or near factory ammo performance in these calibers.

    The Lyman M-die case neck expander is an essential tool for loading cast bullets, in my opinion. Easy to use, accurate and repeatable results, easy on the brass, and cast bullet integrity is maximized.

    Accuracy in all rifles I have used (a dozen or more over the years) is on a par with factory ammo. Winchester Model 94 carbine will deliver 3" groups at 100 yards, as will the Savage Model 99. Good bolt-action rifles in .308 and .30-06 will regularly shoot under 2" and frequently do 1" groups.

    In all of my rifles bore cleaning requires nothing more than patches and solvent. I save my bore brushes for the fouling left by jacketed bullets.

    All of these loads have proven to be completely capable of taking Colorado mule deer (usually 175-275 lbs) and elk (typically 500-700 lbs) at the usual ranges I experience (I have seldom taken deer or elk more than about 80 yards away, but occasionally up to 200 yards).

    Summary: I've been doing this for 48 years. It took me a while to learn what works best for me, and I intend to keep doing everything the same way.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy archeryrob's Avatar
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    Thanks Lobo, that is very informative. I have some of the original naked rounds lubed that are WW and water quenched and probably about 14 hardness and 11 when air cooled. I figured out the powder coating and and did a bunch and got to have over a 100 of each type. I am going to load some and maybe try a few at a fast charge as I was going to limit to 2000 FPS but I like you got the higher speeds. I'll have to plug some data into Gordons for some ladder rounds.

    Using 3031 for 30-30 and 4198 for 30.06 later on. 30-30 is my first project as it will be me hunting rifle this year. I sold all my factory ammo to force me to get it done.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
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    Try Lee's Liquid Alox, works good all the time. It takes a while to dry, just put them in the sun.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    For years I used nothing but HF Red. Eventually, I bought some other stuff as I was getting low on the no longer sold HF Red.

    I bought some Prismatic RAL 4005 Purple and some Ford Dark Blue. The purple worked great (good coating with very little shaking), the blue did not want to work at all regardless of what I tried. I finally mixed 50 - 50 blue and purple and the mix works ok. I get a mottled appearance that is a little lumpy. I am using it this way just to use up the blue.

    Your blue may just be a powder that does not work with typical bullet techniques.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check