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Thread: How fast can I push it?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy archeryrob's Avatar
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    How fast can I push it?

    I have a NOE mold (311-184-FN-J5 5 Cavity GC) and I casted a bunch with WW lead hardness 11 and water quenched. Put one in the metal vice and files the side off og it and pencil test I can getting about 16 for hardness. It is Gas checked with lube grooves and I have been have object failer with powder coating, I just can't get it to stick to bake it. Even did Elvis ammo's 4 at 140 and tried 4 at 200 and hardly get a blue ting on the bullets.

    So I shoot 3:1 Deer fat:Beeswax for lube in got 45 colt rounds. I was thinking of just pan lubing these and seating the gas check and 309 sizing them. I was originally going to aim for 2000 FPS, but wanted to get some opinions on if you think I still can with naked bullets and a GC? If not, what are some recommendations? This is primary a hunting application I am using and target shooting as a side.

    I have 3031 for the 3030 and 4198 for the 30.06 and was going to run these bullets through both. Going to start with the 30-30 first.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy archeryrob's Avatar
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    for 30-30 29 grains of IMR 3031 Gordon's is showing
    Max Pressure 32384 and 2010 FPS
    Last edited by archeryrob; 05-30-2021 at 02:31 PM.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I'm confused about what you said regarding "Elvis ammo's 4 at 140 and tried 4 at 200". Are you talking about baking temperature? To get the polymers in powder coat to fuse you need to get the temperature up to at least 400 degrees F. I bake my powder coated boolits at 425 deg. F for at least 20 minutes. You don't want to get the boolits so hot that it melts the lead, but from what you described it sounds like your not getting them nearly hot enough for the powder coating to work.
    Cast bullets designed for gas checks will almost always work better with the check than without. Velocity with plain based boolits (without the gas check) should be held to 1400 or below. Otherwise you'll probably get barrel leading. With the load that you mentioned you will need a gas checked boolit. It is highly likely that you will have better accuracy and hunting performance if you decrease the velocity to around 1800 fps. Cast bullets don't have a tough copper jacket, so will expand at lower velocities than regular bullets. At above 2000 fps your water quenched COWW bullets might try to fragment instead of mushroom. Two last things: Animal fats in bullet lube can go rancid over time. There are several better lube options with lots of recipes on this site. Second, sometimes when you powder coat a cast bullet the nose of the bullet gets too large for the cartridge to chamber. Before you powder coat 100's of boolits, try coating just 4 or 5 and making up some dummy cartridges. If these cycle you'll know that this combination is going to work in your firearm.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy archeryrob's Avatar
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    I have failed, miserably trying to powder coat bullets. I have powder coated jigs a long time and I heat them, dip them by the hook and the powder sticks and I bake them. I have not been able to get powder to stick to bullets, no matter how I have tried yet. Elvis Ammo on youtube make the 4 minutes at 140 popular to get the powder to stick. It didn't work for me. I made the oven 200 and for 4 minutes and it still didn't stick. I get small particles of powder thatstick and you can't scrape off, but the bullet is not covered to bake a coat on it.

    Okay, so you recommend I lower velocity to 1800. Is that just for expansion? I don;t think a bullet at 16 BHN should be prone to fragmentation, but that is just my opinion.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Here's a good resource: http://www.lasc.us/FryxellExpansionOfCastHP.htm
    Now I see what you mean about the 4 at 140 thing. It isn't really necessary to heat the cast bullets to get the powder to stick to them. What's required is a static electric charge. Most people do the shake n bake method, where you place airsoft BB's and a few teaspoons of powder in a plastic tub along with a handful or two of cast bullets. Then you shake these until the plastic pellets and the tub generate a static charge that causes the powder to stick to the bullets. Naturally the bullets need to be clean and dry for the powder to stick good. There's lots of tutorials on the coatings and alternates portion of the forum. You could probably get lots of information by looking up "shake and bake powder coating bullets" on youtube as well.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Elvis ammo really should take down that video. Its not a proper way to powder coat and irresponsible to misguide people who are new to the whole powder coating bullets thing.

    If you watch his follow up video where he is shooting AK47 with these PC bullets its producing clouds of smoke and he admits that PC is not fully cured and yet there are no farther testing or follow up videos that warn you, as long as youtube is paying per clicks that's all that matters. If you read about Ben's BLL lube he took 2 years to test it before he shared it here on the forum! I don't expect Elvis to be testing for 2 years but at least a follow up video that points out undesirable results.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by archeryrob View Post
    I have a NOE mold (311-184-FN-J5 5 Cavity GC) and I casted a bunch with WW lead hardness 11 and water quenched. Put one in the metal vice and files the side off og it and pencil test I can getting about 16 for hardness. It is Gas checked with lube grooves and I have been have object failer with powder coating, I just can't get it to stick to bake it. Even did Elvis ammo's 4 at 140 and tried 4 at 200 and hardly get a blue ting on the bullets.

    So I shoot 3:1 Deer fat:Beeswax for lube in got 45 colt rounds. I was thinking of just pan lubing these and seating the gas check and 309 sizing them. I was originally going to aim for 2000 FPS, but wanted to get some opinions on if you think I still can with naked bullets and a GC? If not, what are some recommendations? This is primary a hunting application I am using and target shooting as a side.

    I have 3031 for the 3030 and 4198 for the 30.06 and was going to run these bullets through both. Going to start with the 30-30 first.
    IF you quench your boolits before powdercoating you may be contaminating the boolits so the powder won't stick.

    Try quenching after you powder coat and see if that doesn't work better.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy muskeg13's Avatar
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    Getting successfully to 2000 with gas checked ww is easily possible. I've fired several air cooled ww/with a bit of tin in .348, .35 Win and .405 Win up to 2300. I don't water quench anything. Your most important factors are good bore to bullet diameter fit and adequate lubrication. Softer alloy obturates better and isn't brittle. Make sure you slug your bore and size at least .001 to max .003 over. Do not rely on the published or "standard" bore size to be correct for your rifle. In going above 1800, I routinely tumble lube already sized and lubricated boolits with Lee Liquid Alox (cut with mineral spirits and with Johnson's Paste Wax added) to coat the naked driving bands.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy archeryrob's Avatar
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    My bores are 308 in the 30-30 and I got some 307 and 308 readings on the slug from the 30.06. The more I checked the more it varied, so I am assuming 308 still and sizing with the 309 die.

    I have tried coating 9mm WW lead Air cooled and 452 pure lead air cooled for the 45 colt and can't get the powder to stick to either air cooled bullet either. I have yet to try acid washing yet. I keep looking at this and there has to be a better explanation and it shouldn't be this difficult. I tried air soft BB's and can't find black ones. I shook the damn Tupperware so roughly as I got comments I probably didn't shake it hard enough I split open the side fo the container and it poofed blue powder everywhere.

    I have 115 sitting in a lube cake on my work bench waiting to be pushed out, GC'd and sized. I am just going to load 20 for 30-30, shoot them and check for leading when bringing the gun home.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Sounds as if you really need to try the shake and bake way to PC. I have at times warmed my bullets before PC but still shake these to get good coverage. Also you need to cook them at 400 to 425 for at least 20 minutes.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy archeryrob's Avatar
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    I have tried the "shake and bake" except I never get to baking because I can't get the powder to stick. I have tried air soft BB's, low humidity and shock the Tupperware container so round the last time I split the side open.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Bad Ass Wallace's Avatar
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    The shaking vessel should have a symbol "5R inside a triangle". So long as the powder is clean and you shake sufficently it should stick. I'm running loads for my 7.63x39 that average over 2,100fps with good accuracy from my bolt rifle.

    Hold Still Varmint; while I plugs Yer!

  13. #13
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Some powers have a hard time sticking if humidity is high. You might also try putting some bullets in with the powder in a smaller container and place them in a vibrate type brass cleaner for around 10 min. or so. What powder are you using?
    Last edited by brstevns; 06-01-2021 at 08:22 PM.

  14. #14
    Boolit Bub
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    PC seems to stick better when I use a heat gun to heat up the bullets before I tumble them.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy archeryrob's Avatar
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    I am using powder by the pound RAL Sky Blue (5015 if memory serves correctly)

    I have tried air cooled and water quenched bullets.

    I have a tupperware 5 container and used air soft BB's, I have never seen a recyle container with anything other than one number in it. What is a 5R?

    I tried heating 4 minutes at 140 and no sticking, 4 minutes at 200 and bullets had a blue faded color, I tried putting hotter bullets in like I did for jigs and they all glued into a blue ball and reclaiming that lead made a sticky messy pot with powder that would not burn off and just floated on top. Never got to the 20 minute bake as you need to stick powder on them first.

    I have yet to try an acetone wash or getting a pure PVC tube for my HF tumbler. I have not given up, but I have moved on to using Naked, Gas checked bullets for the time being to have something to shoot. Or it will be gun season and I'll be in the stand with a crossbow. I am building yet another chicken coop for my daughter and canning season will be having her keeping me busy also.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master


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    Clean containers

    Clean Bullets

    Quality Powder


    I warm my bullets on top of the toaster oven.

    Small quantities of powder in a large container help allot.

    With problem conditions a double ziploc with a vibratory tumbler can be a game changer.

    Most manufacturers recommend 400 degrees for twenty minutes.

    It WILL WORK, Good luck

    CW
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  17. #17
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    cwlongshot is correct when he says using a small amount of powder. I have a few powders that will not stick if I put too much in with the bullets, but just a little and I get really good coverage. Have you tried the Harbor Freight Red Powder it seems to work everywhere.

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Try 2 coats of BLL on the 30/30. 2k fps should be attainable with the heavy bullet but accuracy may suffer depending on the quality of your loads and bullet.
    Whatever!

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy archeryrob's Avatar
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    Well, I did put plenty of powder in the tupperware. Maybe I'll reduce it to a small amount and try that. worst case I need more to coat better.

    Container was brand new and bullets cast and rested in a container also and tried in just a few weeks.

    BLL?

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
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    Might be easier to just lube and shoot them.........
    Larry Gibson

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    ― Nikola Tesla

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check