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Thread: Picked up a beautiful classic. Should I shoot it?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master gnostic's Avatar
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    Lugers are beautiful to look at and delightful to touch, but they don't shoot very well. The sights are hard to see and the triggers are long and mushy. The bits are numbered, so if anything breaks it becomes a parts gun. I have a 1939 S42, the year Hitler invaded Poland and the start of WW2 and a 1920 commercial, the response to The Treaty Of Versailles. Both are beautiful matching number guns that are a pieces of history. They deserve care and respect. Your pistol is a beauty, enjoy....

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnostic View Post
    but they don't shoot very well. The sights are hard to see and the triggers are long and mushy. .
    I’ve always liked their crisp break. I’ve found no issue with accuracy.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hick View Post
    I would shoot it (I shoot my P1 too). HOWEVER-- be aware that the WWII ammo that they shot was something like a 124 grain bullet at about 1040 fps-- not as hot as some modern 9mm. Some modern ammo might be more than the pistol will handle. Of course, this makes it perfect for reloading.
    It seems the consensus on this topic varies widely. Many people claim that the ammo of the day was actually much hotter than today. There's a old American Rifle articles, I think from the 50's, that denotes how European 9mm was something like 20% higher pressure than American. I think it would be very informative if someone could find and break down some original German 1940's 9mm to see for sure. Thanks for the input.

  4. #24
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    No point in owning it if you can’t enjoy it.

    If you want to keep it in original condition and enjoy a piece of wall art, get it mounted and hang it up. If you want it preserved for eternity, cast it in Clear resin and make a piece of table art. Or donate it to a local museum that will display it and give you a lifetime pass so you can go see it whenever you want.

    If however, you wanted it for being a functioning piece of history than no point it not letting it function. Just take care not to damage or mishandle it. You obviously have done your due diligence so just be safe with it and enjoy.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master

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    If it's ok to gently lay on concrete, it ought to be a little bit shootable.
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  6. #26
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    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    Given its age and origin, it was proof fired, so that "unfired" ship has sailed.

    I personally don't believe a simple machine such as most small arms actually are will be harmed when shooting them with the appropriate ammo. I would not load up a magazine of proof loads, but occasional use would be fine to me.

    Especially if you don't plan to ever sell it.

    Robert

  7. #27
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    If you wanted it as a pristine collectible keep it that way. If you wanted a nice looking shooter go right ahead and shoot it. Go back mentally to why you wanted this and stay in that mindset.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy Rooster's Avatar
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    Pewpew, me too!
    Looking for USGI M1 and carbine rifle parts, please PM me.

  9. #29
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    We had the same issue with an older C96 Mauser. Keep it in the closet, donate it, sell it or shoot it. Finally decided to shoot it and we have a lot of fun with it (it belonged to the wife's father and was traced back to the Boer wars).

    But, I went to some websites and looked to see what pieces were prone to breaking during firing. For the C96 it was the firing pin (which is serial number matched). So, I got a replacement and had it fitted to the pistol and we use it when shooting. That way if it does break we still have the original in one piece.

    Have fun with your new treasure.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
    Hick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hanzy4200 View Post
    It seems the consensus on this topic varies widely. Many people claim that the ammo of the day was actually much hotter than today. There's a old American Rifle articles, I think from the 50's, that denotes how European 9mm was something like 20% higher pressure than American. I think it would be very informative if someone could find and break down some original German 1940's 9mm to see for sure. Thanks for the input.
    Not until the 60's and later. Germany started the war with the 1040 fps load (oops 1050 fps-- I just re-checked), which was used for both the Luger and the P38. The P38 was the replacement for the Luger. Germany then went to a higher load with the new P1 pistol (an improved P38) in 1960 and then even higher later. The new loads had a tendency to crack the slides on the P38 pistol. The Lugers were designed for WWI and used the lighter ammo. Here is a link to a German web site that gives details on the P38's (the successor to the Luger). While we are talking Luger, not P38, this article gives the technical details on the 9mm ammo used in Germany both during and after WWII https://www.vffwts.de/artikel/die-pi...hr-teil-1.html For those who do not want to wade through this or do the conversions into fps, the German datasheets listed showed the following ammo data by year: 1938: 1050 fps, 1960: 1120 fps, 1976: 1280 fps, 1997: 1370 fps. All of these were with an 8 gram bullet, which translates to 123 grains. So, the Germans did go to pretty hot ammo-- but not until they went to newer design handguns. The Luger was designed prior to WW I and in production until 1943-- in WWII it used the 1938 version of 9mm ammo.
    Last edited by Hick; 05-30-2021 at 10:42 PM.
    Hick: Iron sights!

  11. #31
    Boolit Master

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    If you look at the back of the pistol (like you’re aiming it) where the back end of the toggle link pivots on the frame, you can get an idea how much it was shot. A luger that’s been fired more than a few times will show bluing wear on the frame, either side of the toggle link pivot point. You’re looking for two gray-silver metal color wear/impact spots 1/8th inch high and pencil lead thin. If the blueing is even all the way across the back of frame it’s barely been fired. The more the bluing is worn, the more often it was fired. I owe a 1919 matching # shooter. The wear mark looks like a square U. My 43 matching # has no bluing wear in that area. I’ve owned both for 40 years and never shot the 43.
    My 1919 won’t cycle on my standard target load (4.2 Titegroup & a 115 RN). Requires 4.5 minimum to eject & chamber a new round.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master rondog's Avatar
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    My brother has a Luger & holster that was his FIL's. Family story is that he took it off a German that he shot, I'm assuming an officer. It hasn't been fired since the German last fired it, still has the same ammo in it.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    Choot it. C'mon you just have to try it out at least once. Frank

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master
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    You have to see if it will shoot, so might as well.
    I have one.
    All matching, except for the mag.
    1914 Erfurt
    Attachment 283772

  15. #35
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
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    Very nice !!

    Jack
    Buy it cheap and stack it deep , you may need it !

    Black Rifles Matter

  16. #36
    Boolit Master

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    Mothball that one and find yourself a nice mismatched sideplate Soviet capture one to play with.

    Stuff with that kind of workmanship is worth preserving. They aren't making more like that and aren't likely to again. As Remington was having their difficulties, I had this fantasy about sending them one of their old Hepburn single shot target rifles, along with a note that said "Whisky Tango Foxtrot HAPPENED to you guys?"

    Good to be able to break out those pristine examples of "this is what's possible if you give a damn" from time to time.
    WWJMBD?

    In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
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    Shoot it.

  18. #38
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    I would hurry to shoot that gun so fast the neighbors would be wondering why I was running. Now, I am not saying I'd fire until the frame was hot and the barrel melted, but a few magazines just to give the old Gal a chance to show off her steps would certainly be in order. I would use good quality, standard velocity ammo--no +P need apply--120-125 grains in bullet weight, and I'd let 'er rip.
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigslug View Post
    Mothball that one and find yourself a nice mismatched sideplate Soviet capture one to play with.

    Stuff with that kind of workmanship is worth preserving. They aren't making more like that and aren't likely to again. As Remington was having their difficulties, I had this fantasy about sending them one of their old Hepburn single shot target rifles, along with a note that said "Whisky Tango Foxtrot HAPPENED to you guys?"

    Good to be able to break out those pristine examples of "this is what's possible if you give a damn" from time to time.
    I'd shoot the Hepburn too

    If I had something really rare, such as a rifle owned by T Roosevelt, then I'd donate it to a museum. No reason to keep it locked up in my house so it can only be seen by me every year or two. But, that goes back to my rule for myself, if I don't shoot it or carry it, I get rid of it.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check