RotoMetals2RepackboxTitan ReloadingInline Fabrication
MidSouth Shooters SupplyLee PrecisionSnyders JerkyLoad Data
Wideners Reloading Everything
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 31 of 31

Thread: Casting h p problem

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Ausglock's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NSW North Coast, Australia
    Posts
    3,163
    Quote Originally Posted by mehavey View Post
    This stuff?


    Never heard of that use before.
    Wonders never cease....
    Yep.. That's the stuff.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  2. #22
    Boolit Master




    HI-TEK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2,162
    This is a great product.
    How much does it cost currently? What is film thickness after application and heat curing?
    As label states, it is for Welding nozzles, to stop weld spatter filling up inert gas flow areas.
    It usually leaves a reasonable film thickness on surfaces to reduce the sticking of spatter.
    Inside Moulds, I suspect that it may build up a film thickness, which may or may not affect final cast diameters.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,308
    I also wonder why one needs a hollow point on such a soft cast bullet. But I would also suggest contacting Hi-Tek Joe as suggested by Ausglock. Regards Stephen

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,308
    Quote Originally Posted by Bad Ass Wallace View Post
    As delivered I simply wash all parts in mythelated spirit wipe off, when dry apply some powdered graphite to the sprue plate. I have about 20 CBE molds and have no problems with any.

    To use just pre-warm the mold blocks and start casting. I think the problem with 'sticking on the pins' is one simply of not enough heat.

    I have 5 of the CBE moulds and I have always just cleaned them warmed them and gone to casting, I know this is not what is suggested but it has worked for me and I consider them the best moulds I have ever used. Regards Stephen

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Ausglock's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NSW North Coast, Australia
    Posts
    3,163
    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    This is a great product.
    How much does it cost currently? What is film thickness after application and heat curing?
    As label states, it is for Welding nozzles, to stop weld spatter filling up inert gas flow areas.
    It usually leaves a reasonable film thickness on surfaces to reduce the sticking of spatter.
    Inside Moulds, I suspect that it may build up a film thickness, which may or may not affect final cast diameters.
    Doesn't matter the thickness as the OP would be using it on the HP pins, not the cavities..
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  6. #26
    Boolit Master




    HI-TEK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2,162
    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    Doesn't matter the thickness as the OP would be using it on the HP pins, not the cavities..
    OK, Understood.

    I am wondering how pins would be sprayed with the aerosol?
    Unless you had many, many pins to coat, it seems a lot of moneys spent on a spray can, to use next to nil of the product for coating a couple/few of pins.
    They would be far better to use the Bonded Hi-Tek release agent where they can apply only enough to do the job. I suspect, it would work out much cheaper and they would get results that were required, and no waste and far less costs. Side benefit is, that the bonded Hi-Tek would also be useful for internal coating of the Moulds for better release of cast.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master


    Burnt Fingers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    1,938
    Proper heating of the pins costs nothing.

    One could also smoke the pins. That may help.
    NRA Benefactor.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master 44Blam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Nashville, Indiana
    Posts
    1,603
    Casting with HP molds can be a little frustrating. But the main thing is to get your lead hot and get your mold/pin(s) hot. On some molds, I am running lead temps 750-800 degrees just to keep the molds hot enough for good fill out. So heating plate or sit it in the melt for a few minutes. I have a few molds that really need to be HOT and I have a little sheet of paper in my mold box that notes these things. But a hot pin will drop your boolits. Also a little carbon from a lighter or match helps when you haven't fully come up to temp.
    WWG1WGA

  9. #29
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Posts
    39
    Thanks again. Good tips , it’s great to hear individual ideas and techniques that are sometimes OUT OF THE BOX but very effective

  10. #30
    Boolit Master Jim22's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Eastern Washington
    Posts
    592
    I ordered a 2 cavity aluminum HP mould from NOE. It arrived but I haven't cast with it yet. A little intimidated. How many of the tips for brass moulds also apply to aluminum? Put it on a set of Lee handles.

  11. #31
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    El Dorado County, N. Ca.
    Posts
    6,234
    Jim22...

    Just follow the good advice here about cleaning the mould thoroughly, preheat it a couple times up to 400ºƒ & let it cool to the touch and get a little micro pore patina started...lube it up proper and preheat it again before you cast. Put graphite on those pins, if they look rough buff them with some rouge on a cotton wheel.
    Casting is a lot like getting a good paint job...it's all in the preparation.
    Start casting and read the signs as you go...they usually say 'more heat' either in the pot or in the preheated mould & pins. Don't cast a jug full of rejects...fix your problems on the fly.
    If you did the pre work right and didn't skimp, you'll find success very quickly.

    Start yourself a thread so we can follow your success.
    a m e r i c a n p r a v d a

    Be a Patriot . . . expose their lies!

    “In a time of deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” G. Orwell

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check