This is a great product.
How much does it cost currently? What is film thickness after application and heat curing?
As label states, it is for Welding nozzles, to stop weld spatter filling up inert gas flow areas.
It usually leaves a reasonable film thickness on surfaces to reduce the sticking of spatter.
Inside Moulds, I suspect that it may build up a film thickness, which may or may not affect final cast diameters.
I also wonder why one needs a hollow point on such a soft cast bullet. But I would also suggest contacting Hi-Tek Joe as suggested by Ausglock. Regards Stephen
OK, Understood.
I am wondering how pins would be sprayed with the aerosol?
Unless you had many, many pins to coat, it seems a lot of moneys spent on a spray can, to use next to nil of the product for coating a couple/few of pins.
They would be far better to use the Bonded Hi-Tek release agent where they can apply only enough to do the job. I suspect, it would work out much cheaper and they would get results that were required, and no waste and far less costs. Side benefit is, that the bonded Hi-Tek would also be useful for internal coating of the Moulds for better release of cast.
Proper heating of the pins costs nothing.
One could also smoke the pins. That may help.
NRA Benefactor.
Casting with HP molds can be a little frustrating. But the main thing is to get your lead hot and get your mold/pin(s) hot. On some molds, I am running lead temps 750-800 degrees just to keep the molds hot enough for good fill out. So heating plate or sit it in the melt for a few minutes. I have a few molds that really need to be HOT and I have a little sheet of paper in my mold box that notes these things. But a hot pin will drop your boolits. Also a little carbon from a lighter or match helps when you haven't fully come up to temp.
WWG1WGA
Thanks again. Good tips , it’s great to hear individual ideas and techniques that are sometimes OUT OF THE BOX but very effective
I ordered a 2 cavity aluminum HP mould from NOE. It arrived but I haven't cast with it yet. A little intimidated. How many of the tips for brass moulds also apply to aluminum? Put it on a set of Lee handles.
Jim22...
Just follow the good advice here about cleaning the mould thoroughly, preheat it a couple times up to 400ºƒ & let it cool to the touch and get a little micro pore patina started...lube it up proper and preheat it again before you cast. Put graphite on those pins, if they look rough buff them with some rouge on a cotton wheel.
Casting is a lot like getting a good paint job...it's all in the preparation.
Start casting and read the signs as you go...they usually say 'more heat' either in the pot or in the preheated mould & pins. Don't cast a jug full of rejects...fix your problems on the fly.
If you did the pre work right and didn't skimp, you'll find success very quickly.
Start yourself a thread so we can follow your success.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |