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Thread: Recycling spent primers

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StrawHat View Post
    Where are you finding Lucifers? All of the blue tips I have seen for the last decade were NOT strike anywhere but strike on box.

    Kevin
    I agree. Twenty years ago strike anywheres were hard to find.

  2. #22
    Boolit Bub
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    I bought a box of strike any where matches at rural king the other day

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by double00 View Post
    I bought a box of strike any where matches at rural king the other day
    If they are really strike anywhere’s, that is good to know!

    Kevin
    Knowledge I take to my grave is wasted.

    I prefer to use cartridges born before I was.

    Success doesn't make me happy, being happy is what allows me to be successful.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master

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    I add mine to the bucket with rejected cases and .22 brass. My dealer never had a issue.

  5. #25
    Boolit Bub rustyshooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StrawHat View Post
    Where are you finding Lucifers? All of the blue tips I have seen for the last decade were NOT strike anywhere but strike on box.

    Kevin
    Amazon has them. I tried to copy the link but it was too long. Google strike anywhere matches. I’ve also seen them in smaller stores like Dollar General etc.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustyshooter View Post
    Amazon has them. I tried to copy the link but it was too long. Google strike anywhere matches. I’ve also seen them in smaller stores like Dollar General etc.
    I have seen what are advertised as strike anywhere’s but they all need to be struck on the box. The last box I bought the light blue tip was the size of a pinhead and there were a majority of failures.

    Kevin
    Knowledge I take to my grave is wasted.

    I prefer to use cartridges born before I was.

    Success doesn't make me happy, being happy is what allows me to be successful.

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub rustyshooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StrawHat View Post
    I have seen what are advertised as strike anywhere’s but they all need to be struck on the box. The last box I bought the light blue tip was the size of a pinhead and there were a majority of failures.

    Kevin
    I just went and lit about 10 in a row without fail dragging them across the table top. btw- there is no blue tip on them. Scraping the tips off 2 or 3 is enough to fill the primer cup. I also am able to light them Clint Eastwood style just using my thumb. No box needed. Diamond Greenlight matches.

    https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Green...27802412&psc=1

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Thank you for that. I was under the impression I was looking for unicorns.

    Kevin
    Knowledge I take to my grave is wasted.

    I prefer to use cartridges born before I was.

    Success doesn't make me happy, being happy is what allows me to be successful.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustyshooter View Post
    I just went and lit about 10 in a row without fail dragging them across the table top. btw- there is no blue tip on them. Scraping the tips off 2 or 3 is enough to fill the primer cup. I also am able to light them Clint Eastwood style just using my thumb. No box needed. Diamond Greenlight matches.

    https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Green...27802412&psc=1
    What keeps the match head dust in the primer cup?
    Chill Wills

  10. #30
    Boolit Bub rustyshooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chill Wills View Post
    What keeps the match head dust in the primer cup?
    The anvil.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustyshooter View Post
    The anvil.
    ???

    Okay. I will go look at my spent ones again. From memory, the anvils are three legs with space in between them.
    I'll look again.
    Chill Wills

  12. #32
    Boolit Bub rustyshooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chill Wills View Post
    What keeps the match head dust in the primer cup?
    It has to be pried out then reinserted after the cup is filled. This is not a feasible thing to do. It’s one of those things we see all the time on here and that is it CAN be done. Not to say it should be done.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustyshooter View Post
    It has to be pried out then reinserted after the cup is filled. :
    Right. Many of my anvils fall out of the cup when I de-prime. I have had a good look at them over the years. Not having ever tried to rebuild primers - I think the replaced priming compound (match head dust) does not have a chance to stay in there. In new primers, the compound is applied wet/paste and dries as a solid that adheres to the cup.


    ??? never done it.
    Chill Wills

  14. #34
    Boolit Bub rustyshooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chill Wills View Post
    Right. Many of my anvils fall out of the cup when I de-prime. I have had a good look at them over the years. Not having ever tried to rebuild primers - I think the replaced priming compound (match head dust) does not have a chance to stay in there. In new primers, the compound is applied wet/paste and dries as a solid that adheres to the cup.


    ??? never done it.
    When You fill the cup and reset the anvil enough stays in to ignite. Probably not to spec compared to factory primers.

  15. #35
    Boolit Buddy AlHunt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    Keep your spent primers ... there's talk on the forum of a way to ... "Reload" ...fired primers .
    Shortages , high cost of primers and all ... I'm saving all my fired primers just in case the details get worked out ... I could/ would do it ... if it produced reliable primers .
    Don't get rid of them just yet ... you may need them if ... Ms Harris comes into power .
    Gary
    The details are worked out. You can simply buy a product called Prime-All and go to town. They have a video and everything.

    Very tedious work and they're corrosive. But I have had 100% success over 40 or 50 primers. Hopefully it doesn't come to that.

  16. #36
    Boolit Bub rustyshooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlHunt View Post
    Very tedious work and they're corrosive.
    No doubt! Very tedious. What we really need is the recipe for the primer paste itself. Cool stuff. Here’s the link.

    https://22lrreloader.com/products/pr...iming-compound

  17. #37
    Boolit Buddy AlHunt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustyshooter View Post
    When You fill the cup and reset the anvil enough stays in to ignite. Probably not to spec compared to factory primers.
    With the Prime-All compound, you mix it with acetone and make a paste, fill the cup and let it dry. Reset the anvil and seat the primer right away. I've read that some ammo manufacturers seat the primers while the compound is still wet.

    Some make small paper cutouts and set them in the cup under the anvil.

  18. #38
    Boolit Buddy jessdigs's Avatar
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    Recycling spent primers

    I have reloaded some, but the ones I recycle I melt them down and make brass apples for the kids teachers. They always love them. Lost foam method.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    My metals recycler takes them, pays a little less than for cartridge brass.

    The last batch I remembered had a couple decapped live primers, and also what another reloader gave me, so the whole can went into my processing pot and I turned up the propane jet burner. There were a few pops and spits of blue and green flame.

    ETA: that Apple looks great. Solid? If so, that's a lot of primers.

    I once made a set of shooting bags; I used spent primers to fill them (double bagged in plastic) instead of sand.

  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Everything is referred to on the invoice as "yellow brass", primers and cartridge cases
    If they take them that is what you get. Around here they take your DL# as ID.
    Whatever!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check