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Thread: 1911 Guru's: Lubrication question.

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Thumbcocker's Avatar
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    GI rifle grease on slide rails, locking lugs, link, and bushing. GI gin oil on other parts.
    Paper targets aren't your friends. They won't lie for you and they don't care if your feelings get hurt.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    It takes about 5-10 min. to clean once you get the hang of it. I have about 20 different lubes. I use military white oil on parts that move. A nylon brush-cotton q tips and a soft rag does the trick. A tooth pick comes in handy also.
    Last edited by 45DUDE; 05-23-2021 at 03:19 PM.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Bill Wilson and Ken Hackathorn has a 1911 cleaning/lubrication procedure on YouTube. Look for it and you will be be in the know. I just clean and lube mine as I see fit myself.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burnt Fingers View Post
    The drip point for excess lube on your 1911 is your weak hand elbow.

    Since I can't get sperm whale oil any longer I use either LSA or Jojoba oil.
    The AMU trained Bullseye crowd in the 80's thru the mid 90's was a firm believer in this. I stopped hanging out with that crowd in the mid 90's so I can't comment on their current philosophy but I would be surprised if it changes much for the 1911's. Ed's Red was very popular with them.
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

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  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    I like Ed’sRed with lanolin. A lot.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master 1006's Avatar
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    I use Mobile 1 synthetic 0W. The same quart bottle 20 years. The the only exceptions for the Mobile 1, is on aluminum frame guns, where I use gun grease on the rails.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master

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    I pack the plunger tube, mainspring housing, and magazine catch springs, and wipe the sear spring with marine grease as a precaution against wet. The slide rails and barrel get Break Free, and I'm not shy with it.
    WWJMBD?

    In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I oil my 1911 as described and sometimes have went a few months carrying it without relube or firing it. I shoot it right out of the holster lint and all and it’s never failed like that. I normally shoot it 3-4 mags like that, when I change ammo. But I also shoot it fairly often when it’s properly cared for. So, I’ve done both and my gun runs both ways. I generally detail strip it once a year and it’s always nasty inside, as I rarely carry anything else and I carry 24/7.

  9. #29
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    RIG grease on the rails and a drop of 3in1 on top of the barrel at the bushing line when locked open. It's what I have on the bench and it works for me.

    Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    Depends. Most of the time I use Ed's Red or CLP on all the moving/sliding parts. Stick the gun back in the holster.

    If I am going to be on the range all day then I clean off all the oil and apply a dry lube. Blowing sand out here gets in everything and when mixed with oil causes problems.

  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy
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    Put a grease fitting on the slide use it also for the front sight.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master


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    Thank you all, again.
    If a 41 won't stop it, I wouldn't bet my life on a 44.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master


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    M-Tecs
    Read the Cherry Balmz article. Lots of interesting points. Some of the myths he mentions, I've heard. Now, his description and use of grease, IMO, shows a whole new way of looking at it as a lubrication. I bought my first 1911 in 1999, so I'm still learning. So far I haven't destroyed or ruined any parts (as far as I know) with my firearms lubrication technique. You fellas posted a whole lot of good I formation. I will probably change some of the ways I lube my 1911's, and I will continue with some others. Thanks again all y'all.
    If a 41 won't stop it, I wouldn't bet my life on a 44.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check