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Thread: 3D Printed 22 Caliber Pellet Mold

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

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    Keep up the good work. I am curious where this goes.

    On a side note. With 3D printers. You can 3D Print a CNC. I wonder if its possible to cnc ones ones own bullet mold. Since all bullet makers post their cad sketches it would be easy to copy the sketch into a CAD program and revolver the sketch to make a bullet. Then send it to the CNC to mill out.

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  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Yes; this is possible. I've done that before on my own CNC mill. I did this to make a set of swaging dies for some Airgun pellets. This was about eight or nine years ago. Way before we started seeing the plethora of slug-type air gun ammo hit the market. At the time I was only shooting break barrel air guns so my heavy-for-caliber air gun ammo only few well out to about twenty yards or so, then the accuracy took a nose dive.

    With this 3D print project I wanted to come up with a way that anyone with a 3D resin printer could simply print their own bullet and pellet molds. Using the correct resin type, we could print and then cast our own bullets and pellets.

    https://www.instagram.com/p/BgERi9dBRpb/

    https://www.instagram.com/p/BgCy--Lh74z/


    HollowPoint
    Last edited by HollowPoint; 08-19-2021 at 03:31 PM.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I'm still waiting on that High Heat Resistant 3D print resin to get back on the store shelves. I was told by the folks over at Siraya Tech resins that it would be back in stock about the middle of August.

    That date has come and gone so now they're telling me they'll contact me when they do have it on the shelves. I hate all of this waiting but I really can't complain when they graciously give me some generous discounts because they're just as interested to see if I can get my 9mm bullet molds to work as well as those Airgun pellet molds did.

    While I've been waiting I've been using the time to finish up some more injection molds for injection molding a slightly different design of Soft-Plastic paddle tail swim baits. That project is moving right along.

    HollowPoint

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    I finally got another bottle of that high heat resistant 3D printing resin I've been waiting to come back in stock. It took about a month to happen. Now I'm waiting on some porcelain powder to arrive in order to begin my experiments to try to increase the heat resistance of this same resin by just a bit more.

    I'll have to sacrifice a small amount of my newly purchased 3D print resin in order to hopefully arrive at just the right recipe to get me where I want to be in terms of being able to 3D print a few more 9mm cast bullet molds. That will be followed by trying to actually cast some good usable bullets without destroying my mold in the process.

    This time around I'll be attempting to use my ladle to pour the molten lead. I'm thinking that doing it this way will allow me to pour the lead at closer to the 621/625 degree lead melting point rather than the 700 to 750 degree temperatures I was pouring initially. The reason for pouring at those 700 degree temperatures was that the pour spout of my melting pot would plug up if the temperature of the lead was less than 700 degrees.

    I was in so much of a hurry before and so excited to test my 3D printed airgun pellet and 9mm bullet molds that it didn't even occur to me to use my ladle to pour the lead the first time around.

    While I've been waiting for that resin to materialize I've made some further tweaks to my CAD models. These tweaks were in the form of increasing the diameter of the mold cavity of my mold to compensate for dimensional difference that adding more porcelain to the resin might induce. Also, I did away with the 3D printed hollow pointing stem that I was using before as well as shortening the mold just a bit. With the hollow pointing stem removed the mold no longer needed to be as tall as it was.

    That hollow pointing stem was used not only to hollow point my bullet but it also acted as an alignment pin of sorts. I found from my previous attempts at casting with the original 9mm mold I printed that, the part of the hollow pointing stem that actually made contact with the molten lead -although it worked as designed- turned out to be overkill for a prototype 3D printed mold.

    It's best to keep it simple till I work out all the bugs. I'm still confident this will work just like the airgun pellet mold worked. It will just take me a bit more time with my trial and error testing. (mostly error) If I were an actual engineer I might have already solved all or most of these problems before I ever printed them. On the other hand, if I were a trained engineer I might not even have attempted this at all. What's the fun in that?

    I'll be back when I get farther along.

    HollowPoint
    Last edited by HollowPoint; 09-25-2021 at 10:19 AM.

  5. #25
    Boolit Bub

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    G'day from Downunder

    G'day Hollow Point , please check your messages and email as I have sent you several messages and emails in regard to printing problems of the 1911 case catcher project .
    thanking you in advance for your reply

    Regards Paul .

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    The experimenting has begun. Today I printed my control mold prototype. It's printed using the factory formulation of their Siraya Tech Ultra White high heat resistant "Engineering Resin."

    Some of you may already be familiar with this resin but just for clarification, it's main heat resisting component is porcelain. The experiments I've alluded to will be in the form of incrementally adding more porcelain powder with each successive print.

    Each 9mm bullet mold requires approximately 2 ounces of resin to print. Each print includes both halves of this 3D printed single cavity mold along with the rotating sprue cutting lid. The factory formulation printed very accurately for me. The increase in diameter I mentioned previously to the bullet mold cavity turned out to be a good choice. The diagram of the 9mm bullet I'm using had the diameter set at .358".

    I found that my previous prints of this same model yielded mold cavities that measured .356" to .357". I increased the diameter of the mold cavity to .360" in my model and so now with today's print I got a bullet cavity diameter that measured .358"; right on the money. In my, mind that's darn good resolution for a 3D printer. I have yet to see if my printer and resin combination will continue to give me this kind of accuracy with the following prints.

    Now with the addition of more porcelain in the mix I may have to increase the diameter of the mold cavities a bit more. I'll have to wait and see what kind of accuracy the next mold prints at after adding that first/additional table-spoon of porcelain powder.

    If I can get them to print just was well after adding more porcelain as they print using the factory formulation, I intend to increase the amount of porcelain by an additional table-spoon till I have four separate 9mm molds printed, providing of course that they print at all with the additional porcelain mixed in.

    I don't want to get ahead of myself but if I can get them to print out as well as the first 9mm bullet mold I can then move on to casting with each mold side by side to see if this experimenting was worth the trouble or if it was just an exercise in futility.

    The reason for mixing in more porcelain is to try to increase the heat resistance of the mold enough to be able to cast a 9mm bullet without ruining the mold after just one casting attempt.

    I'll be back with some photos as I get farther along.

    HollowPoint
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 9MM-B-Mold.jpg  
    Last edited by HollowPoint; 09-30-2021 at 10:51 PM.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    The second 9mm bullet mold print is now complete. This second print was done after adding an additional table spoon of porcelain powder to the resin I'm working with. It printed out with the same very good surface finish as the first print.

    You may recall that my first print was done using two ounces of the factory formulation of the Siraya Tech Ultra White High Heat Resistant resin.

    If I remember correctly, in it's factory formulation, this resin is said to be able to withstand something like 360 degree Fahrenheit using their factory testing protocols.

    As a bullet caster my testing protocols are a bit more extreme.

    Also, as I suspected might be the case, the prints came out very well but the dimensions of the bullet cavities shrunk by .003" to .006" depending on where I put my digital calibers.

    With the factory formulation the shrinkage was an average of .002" to .003". This too depended on where I placed my digital calipers.

    On that initial prototype 9mm bullet mold print the dimension from side to side at the seam line was spot on at the .380" I was looking for with the factory formulation. This was due to my increasing the overall diameter of my mold cavities from .358" to .360".

    With the addition of that table spoon of powdered porcelain the measurement from front to back on the mold cavities was an average diameter ranging from .357" to .354," which gave me an oblong shape to the overall diameter.

    I still plan on casting with these mold prototypes regardless of the cavity shapes. I want to first determine how much additional porcelain I can add to increase the heat resistance a bit more while still being able to get good print quality.

    From there I want to be able to print and then successfully cast with these 3D printed molds. After that I can then go back into my CAD software and adjust the dimensions and geometry of the mold cavities to compensate for the variations in the print out dimensions.

    In theory, this should allow my finished prints to print out concentrically round and to the correct dimensions as they should be.

    For now, I'm interested more on printing a mold that will cast more than just one bullet before it's no longer usable.

    I did take a photo of my newly printed second prototype 9mm bullet mold but right now the file size of that photo is to massive to be able to upload it here. I'll shrink it down to a few KBs within the next few days just so you all can see that I'm not just blowing smoke.

    FYI; the photo of this second mold print looks almost exactly like the computer rendering I uploaded in my previous post. The only difference is that it's porcelain-white in color rather than the blue computer rendering color.

    HollowPoint

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    It just occurred to me that rather than going through the trouble of editing down my second recently 3D printed 9mm bullet mold prototype I could just post a link to the Facebook web address where I'm able to load the full size file containing the photo I alluded to.

    HollowPoint

    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...7737674&type=3

  9. #29
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    This video is now a few years old. I know this stuff is still pretty cost prohibitive BUT...
    You may enjoy it anyway:

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traffer View Post
    This video is now a few years old. I know this stuff is still pretty cost prohibitive BUT...
    You may enjoy it anyway:
    I think I watched this and many other videos on the subject of 3D printing in general back when I was dreaming of buying my first 3D printer. It's the kind of stuff I could only have access to if I won the lottery or if I had an extremely wealthy long lost relative pass away and leave me a boat load of funds.

    Still, it would be nice to have access to this kind of technology. Thanks for posting.

    HollowPoint

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    The third print of this same model is being printed as I write this update.

    From that first control print using the factory Siraya Tech Ultra White resin in it's factory formulation to this present print, I've been tweaking my model as I go so as to minimize any fitment issues between all the components.

    Each printed mold will have slight changes to there outside geometry; changes like chamfering the bottom inside face/edge to mitigate that, "Elephant-Foot" thing that takes place when your model is placed directly on the build plate.

    Also; I've decreased the diameters in the areas where the Sprue-Cutting-Lid interfaces with the tops of the mold to lock them together.

    I found that I had to do some judicious filing and sanding to get that first print to fit together as it should. I even broke out my dremel tool, which was a bit of overkill but it worked out in the end; even though the lid fits a bit more loose than I'd like.

    The mold components of my second print (the one with 1-TBS of added porcelain powder) fit together with only some very minor filing or sanding.

    If I did my CAD model dimension tweaking correctly this means that this third print (the one with 2-TBSs of added Porcelain powder should fit together right out of the printer.

    One last embarrassing update:

    In my initial post I rattled off all of the measured dimensions I was getting after printing with the factory formulation of the Siraya Tech Ultra White resin as well as the dimensions I was getting after adding that first table spoon of porcelain powder.

    As I was tweaking the dimension I mentioned above in my CAD software I realized that I was measuring incorrectly. I had increased the diameter of my bullet cavity to compensate for the .002 to .003 shrinkage I'd gotten before but, I had not taken into account the chamfer at the base of my bullet.

    With my digital calipers I as able to take either mold half and measure from edge to edge at the widest points of the mold cavity. This gave me the desired measurement of .358" in the side to side direction of the seam line.

    However, to measure from front to back I had to but both mold halves together and measure the front to back diameter at the top of the mold blocks.

    Because of the chamfer modeled into the base of the bullet, that chamfer was transferred onto the upper most edge at the mouth of the mold cavity. This meant that the tiny little chamfer would not allow my calipers to measure the widest points of the mold cavity like I as able to do when measuring from side to side on the seam line.

    At the mouth of the bullet mold cavity, that chamfer would only allow my digital calipers to the edge of the chamfer. This is what made me think that I was getting some oblong or out of round bullet cavities.

    It was a rookie mistake on my part. You've no doubt heard the saying, "Measure Twice, Cut Once;" or something like that. Well I could have measured countless times and if I was measuring incorrectly each time it would still give me incorrect measurements.

    All of that to say; because I had not accounted for that small chamfer on the tail end of my bullet model, I was measuring incorrectly and assuming that my prints were giving me out-of-round bullet mold cavities.

    Imagine what a "Cluster" I would have created for myself if I had gone in like I said I was going to do and tweaked the dimensions and geometry of my bullet mold cavities to compensate for a problem that was never really there to begin with.

    I WAS and STILL AM getting a measurable shrinkage but, that shrinkage was taken care of when I increased the overall diameter of my bullet cavities.

    I think I just averted a major catastrophe; even though I may have looked like an idiot in doing so. I'll try to post another photo of my latest print as soon as it's done.

    I'm hoping that it prints out as well the previous two molds. I'm reluctant to pause the print for fear of putting the whammy on it.

    Each 9mm bullet mold print takes just under three hours. I'd rather risk waiting the three hours and hoping that it comes out OK than taking the chance of pausing the print to check and somehow introducing some kind of destructive variable; especially since adding two additional table spoons of porcelain powder may in itself be the destructive variable.

    I'll be back with updates as I get far enough along.
    Last edited by HollowPoint; 10-04-2021 at 11:15 AM.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    I finished printing the last of the four prototype molds I'd planned on printing today. I got four usable bullet molds for my efforts.

    I'm happy to report that even with the addition of more porcelain powder I still was getting some decent prints. I did have to adjust my print settings to compensate of the increase in viscosity from adding in more porcelain but overall I'm pleasantly surprised that they printed at all.

    I did encounter some printer problems along the way so there are some small areas in each print that did not print flawlessly. This was due to the surface of my printer's build plate not being perfectly flat.

    Unfortunately for me, I didn't figure out the cause of this problem until after I'd printed that last prototype mold. The areas affected by these slight surface flaws did not effect the mold cavities at all so, I still ended up with good usable mold samples.

    Those surfaces of my prints that were effected were the surfaces that rested directly on the build plate. Because the surface of my build plate was not perfectly flat, small sections of those surfaces that were making direct contact with my build plate did not stick fully to the build plate

    If I had not mentioned this, no one would have ever known but, I just wanted to divulge the good and the bad I've been working with.

    The first 9mm mold was printed with the factory formulation of Siraya Tech Ultra White high heat resistant resin.

    Each of the three following mold prints was done using the same resin but I added 1, and then 2 and then ultimately 3 table spoons of additional porcelain powder to each successive print in an attempt to increase the heat resistance of this particular resin.

    Whether all of this experimenting will yield the results I'm looking for is still yet to be seen.

    Working off of my recent past experience with my Airgun Pellet Mold project using this same resin, I had to come up with some very specific bullet and pellet casting procedures in order for this to work.

    I plan on doing some side by side test casting next week some time. I'll be video recording it so I can upload these videos as proof of concept to my YouTube account. I can link those video clips onto my updates here and in my ongoing Facebook updates in the various groups I'm a member of.

    The last time I attempted to upload directly to Facebook I got good video but the audio had somehow not made it through so all you could see was some guy who's mouth was moving but no sound was coming through so, this is why I have to take this round about video uploading procedure.


    HollowPoint

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Looking forward to more info

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Sheesh View Post
    Looking forward to more info
    You and me both brother.

    I really hope I can get it to work as well as the airgun pellet molds I printed up and tested before. I'd love to be able to print a light weight 30 caliber rifle bullet mold that would work out for me too.

    Incidentally; I own several aluminum molds and several single cavity iron molds that function just fine. The cheapest of the lot cost me about sixty to sixty-five bucks back in the day. 3D printing one individual single cavity mold like the 9mm molds I've pictured here cost $1.84 cents worth of resin according to the integral cost calculator in my slicer software.

    Even if I factor in the cost of the extra porcelain powder and electricity that my printer uses as well as the electricity the laptop I used to model these prototype molds uses, I'm thinking that the total cost of one single cavity mold, whether its a pellet, pistol or rifle bullet mold, costs a total of around four or five bucks.

    HollowPoint

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    All 3D 9mm Bullet Mold Prints Are Done

    Here are a few hastily taken photos of the 9mm bullet molds I've been able to 3D print even after adding additional Porcelain Powder to the factory formulation of Siraya Tech Ultra White resin.

    I've superimposed some explanatory text onto each photo to hopefully help them make a bit more sense.

    If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

    For any who may come across this update without knowing the background behind these experiments, by adding more Porcelain Powder to the factory formulation of the Siraya Tech Ultra White composite resin I was hoping to be able to increase the Heat-Resistance of this resin by just enough to allow me to cast some 9mm bullets out of molten lead.

    I thought I might get a chance to do some test casting today but it seems that the weather has decided to rain on my parade.

    I do my casting outdoors and even small droplets of Water coming into contact with molten lead can have a violent reaction so, for safety's sake I decided to wait till the weather clears up.

    I'll be back with updates as I get farther along.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Finished9mmMolds.jpg   MoldIngredients.jpg   9mmMold3.jpg  

  16. #36
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    I live in the Seattle area, rain falling on your melting pot will not cause a visit from the Tinsel Fairy, that's the good news. It'd take a huge blob of water to cause a tinsel incident. Your gear shouldn't rust as it's warm enough to vaporize the rain, also.

    Bad news is, the tinsel fairy sends her sneaky Hypothermia Fairy cousin instead, you can get pretty floored.

    So I've always cast outdoors even if raining, just with one of those pop-up covers or a tarp to keep me dry.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
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    SUCCESS! It Worked. It actually Worked!

    Let me explain what I mean by the use of the word, "SUCCESS" within the context of this 3D printed 9mm bullet mold project.

    I wanted to be able to 3D print a bullet mold that would allow me to cast more than just one or two bullets before the 3D printed mold became ruined by the effects of the thermal-shock introduced by the molten lead I'd be pouring into it.

    By pouring the molten lead at a temperature closer to the baseline melting point of lead (625 Degrees Fahrenheit; or there abouts) and by using my ladle rather than filling my molds directly from the melting pot's spout, I was able to achieve the results I got today.

    This was in large part due to the additional Porcelain Powder I added to the Siraya Tech Ultra-White resin's factory formulation.

    I fully expected for my control mold prototype to give up the ghost after just one or two casts, just like the last time I attempted to cast 9mm bullets with these same 3D printed molds using the Siraya Tech Ultra-White resin.

    I was kind of surprised that I was able to cast two bullets before this particular prototype abruptly started showing signs that it could no longer even come close to giving up a usable bullet. The third attempt with my Control sample mold was a total dud. To be frank, the very first casts with each of the four molds were basically duds.

    On the other hand, the three other molds I'd 3D printed -the ones that I had incrementally added 1,2 and then 3 additional table-spoons of porcelain powder worked like gang busters. After the fifth or sixth bullet cast with these altered-formulation 9mm molds they showed only miniscule signs of damage of any kind. By, "Miniscule" I mean a slight yellowing along the corner edges of the mold cavities.

    I'm more than just a little bit sure that those miniscule signs of distress on the three altered-formulation molds can be worked out further by tweaking my CAD models to compensate for these weaknesses.

    I mentioned before that I might have to make some dimension changes to my mold cavities in order to counteract the slight shrinkage I was getting in my prints. I mean, when compared to the dimensions they were modeled at by whomever drew up the original design of these particular 124 grain 9mm bullets.

    Those dimensional tweaks I made to my CAD models helped me get the prints closer to the printed dimensions I was looking for but I had not considered or accounted for any shrinkage that might occur with the lead itself as it cooled.

    It looks like I'll have to make some further tweaks to compensate for the combined shrinkage of the 3D prints as they come out of the printer and the lead bullets as they solidify in my 3D printed molds.

    It would take me forever to explain with the written word what I'm trying to describe here so I've video recorded my casting process. Those video clips contain many of the explanations I'm to lazy to write down with this latest update.

    I have alot of video editing ahead of me now so you most likely won't hear from me for a while. I'll be breaking them down into short video snippets mainly because my antiquated computer equipment just can't handle all of those massive video files without going into a sort of Alzheimer-Mode and locking up on me.

    I hope to get those videos ready for uploading by the end of next week.

    Again I repeat, SUCCESS! It actually worked.

  18. #38
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    You are our hero Hollowpoint...Thanks for pioneering the way!

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traffer View Post
    You are our hero Hollowpoint...Thanks for pioneering the way!
    I'm no hero. I'm just a chronically cheap chronic Do It Yourselfer.

    HollowPoint

  20. #40
    Boolit Master
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    This My Introductory Video Of This 3D Printed Bullet Mold

    This is my short introductory video describing what I hope to accomplish by 3D printing my 9mm Single Cavity bullet molds.

    In spite of some obstacles I've encountered along the way I was able to print up the four usable bullet molds that I'll be casting with in the next few video clips.

    The obstacles I'm alluding to include some shrinkage in the prints themselves; which I was able to mitigate by simply altering the dimensions of my mold cavities within my design software.

    Also; I had not taken into account any shrinkage in the lead itself once it had solidified and cooled after casting.

    I wish I could be showing you a perfect outcome the first time out but like all of the other 3D print projects I've undertaken, it's a series of trial and error.

    This time around is no different. Even though I got them to cast well there are still some dimensional tweaks that I'll have to make to get them to produce good usable cast lead bullets right out of the mold, without any post-casting work to get them ready to reload and shoot safely and accurately.

    Questions insights and suggestions are welcome.

    For those who may be stumbling onto this video for the first time, these casting experiments using my 3D printed single cavity bullet molds were meant to test a slightly altered formulation of the Siraya Tech Ultra White Composite High Heat Resistant Resin.

    I incrementally added additional amounts of Porcelain Powder to three of the 9mm bullet molds featured in these videos.

    This is only the introductory video. I have four or five more that still need to be edited before I upload them onto my YouTube account.

    For someone like myself who's always in a hurry, Editing and then uploading them onto the internet is painfully slow.

    If money were no object I'd splurge and buy better computer equipment but, money is an object of concern for me, and lots of other so, this is how I have to work it to get it to work for me.

    Stay tuned. There will be more videos forthcoming.

    https://youtu.be/qdhPPkGtcRE
    Last edited by HollowPoint; 10-07-2021 at 11:01 AM.

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