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Thread: Recommendations for alloying lino and ww

  1. #1
    Boolit Master


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    Recommendations for alloying lino and ww

    So as I posted, I scored some nice linotype. I don't want to waste it, I shudder to think that people cast straight linotype bullets!

    My usual alloy that serves all of my needs (pb pistol up to 1200-1300 fps, gc rifle up to about 1600 fps) is simply wheel weights plus about 2% tin. That's it. It does everything I want to do, shoots well, and doesn't lead.

    What would be a good ratio of linotype to WWM to accomplish the same thing and achieve similar performance?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Clip on wheel weights are not consistent, but safe to assume .5% tin and 7%-8% antinomy.

    Adding lino to cowws will drive up the antimony.

    I’d suggest selling or trading the lino for tin, or just hoard it until you need to harden up some sowws or pure lead.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I am not surprised you WW +2% tin is working well for you. That is a wonderful alloy when you don't need pure Linotype. I don't think alloying WW with Lino is a good plan. You would need to go 50/50 COWW/Lino to get to 2% tin and you would have way too much antimony. Better to go 50/50 pure/lino, that would be more like your COWW with 2% tin.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    Clip on wheel weights are not consistent, but safe to assume .5% tin and 7%-8% antimony...
    I thought 3% was more typical?

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    If it shoots good why mess with it? I have Lino on hand and never use it. I do use pewter on occasions to help with fill out. I would stay with the wheel weights and I would only add Pewter (tin) when the bullets don't fill out nice and crisp.
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  6. #6
    Boolit Master


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    How about lino/ stick ons? I thought they were more like pure?

    I'd hate to NOT use this magnificent gift. Then some poor slop will be posting the same question here after I die and he ends up with it

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin c View Post
    I thought 3% was more typical?
    Depends on the age of the wheel weights I suppose. I had some ingots tested earlier this year and I think they had 6%, so I assumed they were normal, but who knows. I’m also 1,000 miles from my notes right now, so could just be a memory problem.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    I have used 5 lbs ww to 1 lb linotype forever with Magma lube for all my handgun (and subgun) bullets. I have never leaded a barrel in almost 40+ years of casting/reloading.
    Works for me.
    That's all I need.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    It's a luxury to have both ww and lino. But you need pure and some pewter too. I batched quite a bit of Lyman #2 for rifle boolits with pure, pewter and lino type. Use one of the alloy spread sheets and shoot for 2% tin and 2% antimony. Your valuable stuff will go far then.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Stick on wheel weights are considered close to pure. 3# SOWW mixed with 1# Lino (84% Pb, 12% Sb and 4% Sn) should give you an alloy around 3% Sb (same as COWW?) and 1% Sn, slightly less Sn than your preferred mix, and minus the bit of arsenic in COWW that's useful for heat treating. Might work quite well as is, or you could add more tin for fill out as needed.
    Last edited by kevin c; 05-19-2021 at 04:51 PM.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    For Lyman #2
    0.5 Pewter
    5 Lino
    7 Pure

    For 2.5/2.5/95
    0.25 Pewter
    2 Lino
    8 Pure

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master


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    I would not mix lino and COWWs. It "sweetens neither. It only exacerbates the antimony to lead ratio both have. The COWW + 2% Tin alloy you are using will suffice extremely well for 90% of cast bullet shooting.

    With the lino I suggest to use it to make #2 alloy as mentioned. That is about the best alloy, even better than straight lino in my limited experience......
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  13. #13
    Boolit Master


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    Well thanks for the replies. Problem is, I don't have much in the way of pure lead, and wasn't planning on buying any.

    I guess maybe I'll try some straight lino rifle bullets some day. Might be good for the . 223.

  14. #14
    USMC 77, USRA 79


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    or you could swap some a member here for some of it. soft lead for Lino to make great alloy... they you will get a better use out of your alloy.
    Any technology not understood, can seem like Magic!!!

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  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    There is lots of pure lead out there. You just have to poke around. Scrap yards, wtb add on craigslist etc.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick L View Post
    I guess maybe I'll try some straight lino rifle bullets some day. Might be good for the . 223.
    The club I belong to has a cast bullet registered shoot for rifles on a monthly basis. A couple of the shooters cast straight Linotype with great success.
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  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Scroll down , several Linotype alloy recipes ... http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm
    Regards
    John

  18. #18
    Boolit Bub
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    John Boy,

    thanks for the link

  19. #19
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    Mixing Lino and COWW's is OK to do, I do it all the time. I mix 25% Lino with 75 % WW's for an air cooled BHN of around 15. Water dropping it will get you up around BHN 22. This has been my "go to" target rifle alloy for many years. Hunting alloy is a different matter though.

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    Yeah tin isnt adding to the hardness of the bullet much. I personally dont add tin unless the alloy is casting finicky. I use mostly range scrap & 4-1 ratio with lino gives a very good alloy, about like ww with 1% tin added. As noted you can water drop for harder bullets.
    Back in the day I usefd to get lino for 25c/# from a local print shop. I cast all my bullets out of lino then. I wish I would have bought a pallet & sat on it. I still have maybe 100# of it, but i get by just fine with range scrap 2-1 with clip ww for most handgun needs.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check