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Thread: Permanently Marking Ingots ----------- Again

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Permanently Marking Ingots ----------- Again

    I know many of us have started marking our ingots. I've been using steel stamps for a good while but have not found a really good way to fasten 2 together to form initials like WW, PB, ect. I've used "C" clamps, turn-buckels, ground rod clamps, ect but nothing really worked great. I mean, they would be ok for 15 or 20 ingots but would eventually get loose. Well, I bought a cheap set from Harbor Freight and tack welded a few together. I started with the basics, PB and WW. I used an upside down "M" for the 2nd "W".

    A few weeks ago me and Biggin had our annual smelting day and stamped 616 ingots at the end of the day. They worked great, wish I had done this sooner! Oh yeah, I bought the 3/8ths size.

    If you guys are not marking your ingots I encourage you to start. Sooner or later they will find a way to get mixed up.

  2. #2
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    Years ago, I began writing on them with a marks-a-lot or sharpie.

    I think the sharpie ink soaks into them.
    It sticks like poop on a baby blanket, and even the real old ones haven't faded much.
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  3. #3
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    tape works great for me to hold the stamps together

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    I just wrap the stamps in tape. Been using painters tape lately. Stamped close to 5 or 600 and hasn't torn or fallen off yet. Just hit both stamps with the hammer and your done.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    I just take an old ball point pen and firmly write on the ingots.

    The ball makes a nice visible groove in the surface.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Okay, I would go way, WAY simple. Pure Lead would be "P". Wheelweights would be "W". I leave linotype in it identifiable form or I would mark it with an "L". Being a former software writer when every character carried a performance or storage hit, never use two characters when one will do the same job. It is only three or four characters one would have to commit to memory.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Way, WAY simple would be to simply mark the box the ingots are stored in. This ain't rocket science.

    Don
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  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by USSR View Post
    Way, WAY simple would be to simply mark the box the ingots are stored in. This ain't rocket science.

    Don
    It ain't rocket science but boxes fail, plastic buckets fail, ink fades. Stamps usually don't fail. I'm glad you are happy with your boxes.

  9. #9
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    I use a couple of rubber bands to hold the stamps together. It don't take long if you line the ingots up and get your cadence going.
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I think my ingot marking stamps are the 1/4" sets, also from Harbor Freight. I got three sets to have enough letters and numbers to keep on hand several non cryptic designations and content. I duct tape together up to three. The tape works better than any other non permanent quick fix I've tried so far (zero welding skills here, and, anyway, I have too many temporary stamp combos to want everything permanently welded up).

    A problem is that the stamps are not a uniform height, not even from the same set, and with the tape the stamps shift relative to each other. End result is one blow to the set may leave deep, light or no impressions all at once. I now just use the tape as an extra set of fingers and tap each letter separately to get the best legibility.

  11. #11
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    I just pour my ingots into different 1lb factory ingot molds.
    Lyman = #2
    Saeco = 20/1
    Ohaus = Linotype
    etc,
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  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Wheelweights and Linotype I leave as-is until I need some. I did melt down several hundred pounds of X-ray shielding once. That's the only lead I have in ingots.
    Cognitive Dissident

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin c View Post
    I think my ingot marking stamps are the 1/4" sets, also from Harbor Freight. I got three sets to have enough letters and numbers to keep on hand several non cryptic designations and content. I duct tape together up to three. The tape works better than any other non permanent quick fix I've tried so far (zero welding skills here, and, anyway, I have too many temporary stamp combos to want everything permanently welded up).







    A problem is that the stamps are not a uniform height, not even from the same set, and with the tape the stamps shift relative to each other. End result is one blow to the set may leave deep, light or no impressions all at once. I now just use the tape as an extra set of fingers and tap each letter separately to get the best legibility.
    Yeah, I had to use the letter end to square them up and then ground on the other end to even them up.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Walks View Post
    I just pour my ingots into different 1lb factory ingot molds.
    Lyman = #2
    Saeco = 20/1
    Ohaus = Linotype
    etc,
    I have the legend printed inside the cover of every Reloading manual I own.
    I envy you having that many molds! When I have a smelting day I run 7 molds but 2 is the most I have of one kind.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by lightman View Post
    I know many of us have started marking our ingots. I've been using steel stamps for a good while but have not found a really good way to fasten 2 together to form initials like WW, PB, ect. I've used "C" clamps, turn-buckels, ground rod clamps, ect but nothing really worked great. I mean, they would be ok for 15 or 20 ingots but would eventually get loose. Well, I bought a cheap set from Harbor Freight and tack welded a few together. I started with the basics, PB and WW. I used an upside down "M" for the 2nd "W".

    A few weeks ago me and Biggin had our annual smelting day and stamped 616 ingots at the end of the day. They worked great, wish I had done this sooner! Oh yeah, I bought the 3/8ths size.

    If you guys are not marking your ingots I encourage you to start. Sooner or later they will find a way to get mixed up.
    good fix with the upside down M. I was wondering how you got two Ws out of one set until I reread your post. Glad I reread before posting something stupid.

    For what it's worth I cast my COWW and SOWW separately and use CW and SW. It works for me, but wonder if it will make sense to other folks after I'm pushing up daisies.
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  16. #16
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    i stamp them as well... I just use the stamps singally as meant to be used.

    if you are worried about handling too many stamps.. just stamp them alphabetically.. then have a laminated chart.. a= this b = this.... etc.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    I mark each Ingot with Roman numerals l-V-&X are easy with a 3/4 cold chisel. Batch makeup is just listed in my reloading book.

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    Number stamps are no doubt handy, especially if you have made up special mixes for future...I don't have any idea why I marked both ends of these tiny ingots...old'Farts are strange critters at times!


    But for large batches now I like the idea of labeling the 'key' ingots with the details and end marking the ingots with a rattle can...



    More and more I like to keep that lead stacked tight & use the least amount of my precious floor space as I can...



    I am so done with these muffin tin ingots in the background.

    I think we might tend to go overboard marking our ingots, like the guy said..."containers fail" & so does 'memory'...so were 'anal' about identifying stuff heh?
    What's wrong with anal?
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  19. #19
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    I just use a center punch and no marking = COWW, 1 strike = SOWW, 3 dots right next to eachother = Lino.

  20. #20
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    I just use Gorilla Tape to hold the 2 or 3 letter stamps in the right order (PL, COW, RL. etc) and it has worked for me for many years. One whack with a 2# mallet and the ingot is marked.

    I alos use paint on the ends of my ingots to mark them for easy ID when stacked. I NEVER use muffins or odd shapes!!!!!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check