MidSouth Shooters SupplyRepackboxInline FabricationRotoMetals2
Reloading UKADvertise hereLee PrecisionTitan Reloading

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 33 of 33

Thread: What to use to remove case lubricant

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy hoodat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Jefferson State
    Posts
    116
    I've gotta say this --- When I started reloading, almost NOBODY even had a tumbler, or ever even cleaned their brass. Now about half of the "how to" threads on reloading forums have to do with various tumbling techniques.

    No real point to my post, I just think it's kind of interesting. jd
    It seems that people who do almost nothing, often complain loudly when it's time to do it.

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy 405grain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Modesto, Ca.
    Posts
    188
    Using the lanolin/alcohol mix to spray on case lube is great because it gets inside the case necks and the expander ball pulls out smoother. It's quicker than rolling the cases on a lube pad. Everything about it is convenient except for removing it after it's done it's job. I tried the Dawn & hot water wash, and also the Woolite too. There's still a slight residue on the cases. For a couple of reasons, tumbling both before and after sizing isn't that great either. What I did find that works really well is to boil the brass in a solution of water and about a teaspoon of trisodium phosphate, then rinse with hot water. This works well, and removes all of the lanolin residue, but is also a lot of extra work. The RCBS case lube is water soluble and completely cleans off with the Dawn & hot water wash. Because of this I've decided that for reloading batches of 100 rounds or less I'll use the RCBS lube and a pad, and for batches above 100 cases I use the lanolin/alcohol spray.

    Here's a tip (for what it's worth); I looked up the properties of annealing brass. Documents and phase change diagrams show that the properties of brass don't begin to be altered until the temperatures start to go above 400 degrees F. Water boils at 212 degrees F. After washing my brass I toss them into a pan and place them into the same toaster oven that I use for powder coating bullets. I set the temperature to about 225 degrees F, and all the moisture turns to steam and dries off. In about 15 minutes all the brass is dry and ready to process. I know that some people are going to be leery of cooking the brass, and will think that heating the brass will soften it or have an effect on the annealing. If you feel uneasy about it, don't do it: the sun will dry it just as well (except in winter maybe). But so long as I keep the temperature below 250 degrees there is no possibility that there will be any change in the brass whatsoever. I have reloaded thousands of rounds doing this, and never had any problems. If you want to try this or not it's up to you, but remember; if you accidentally over heat the brass to 400 degrees or more you'll have to throw out that whole batch of brass.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    SE Kentucky
    Posts
    870
    Use the alcohol/lanolin spray and after sizing lay the brass on an old T-shirt and hit it with a few squirts of Brake-Kleen. Roll it around and give a quick wipe with the shirt and then tumble with walnut hulls with some mineral spirits and pieces of dryer sheet. After tumbling, checking flash holes and a quick wipe with a dry cloth to remove any walnut dust.

  4. #24
    Boolit Man DAVIDMAGNUM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Maryland's Eastern Shore
    Posts
    95
    I throw them in the vibratory case cleaner with Lyman corn cobb media. The Imperial case lube and treated corn cobb media polish the brass to a like new finish. I just set the timer and walk away, easy.

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    6,113
    Marty ... forget about all the proposed gyrations. Just wipe the cases with a shop rag coated with pure mineral spirits. And you don’t have to drown the cases with the spirit wipe.
    After reloading, all rounds are wiped down when putting them in the ammo box
    Regards
    John

  6. #26
    Boolit Master Randy Bohannon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Buffalo WY
    Posts
    547
    Sharpshooter lube easily wipes off with a paper towel still clean and bright,it is the best case lube I have ever used. Minimal amount makes it easy to remove and very pleasant to use.

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    6,575
    Wipe it off with a clean rag .
    Lee case lube is water soluble ... the dry waxy film wipes off easily ... helps protect the brass case .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    718
    I've tried both alcohol and mineral spirits on a paper towel. They worked OK. Now I use WD40. Just very lightly spritz one end of a half sheet of paper towel with WD40 keeping the other end dry. Wipe the lube off with one end and the WD40 with the other end. You have a clean, dry boolet and no WD40 to oxidize and get sticky.
    Some times it's the pot,
    Some times it's the pan,
    It might even be the skillet,
    But, most of the time, it's the cook.

  9. #29
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by hoodat View Post
    I've gotta say this --- When I started reloading, almost NOBODY even had a tumbler, or ever even cleaned their brass. Now about half of the "how to" threads on reloading forums have to do with various tumbling techniques.

    No real point to my post, I just think it's kind of interesting. jd
    and now thanks to covid you can't even buy a tumbler.......

  10. #30
    Boolit Mold


    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Booger County, Texas
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by RickinTN View Post
    A shot of starting fluid then wiping them down with a cotton cloth always did the trick for me way back when. I would be it would still work very well today.
    Rick
    I do something similar. A shot of hexane-isopropanol and a bit of manual "tumbling" in a shop rag.
    (Yes, I read Birchwood's disclaimer but, used in moderation, it works a charm.)

  11. #31
    Boolit Master brassrat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    conn.
    Posts
    727
    I don't wanna clean the coating that is on my shiny brass from the extensive tumbling in walnut and car polish, so no brake cleaner, which does the job.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master Sprue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    WV
    Posts
    828
    Wow...it's been years since my last visit/post on this site. As for cleaning I use Lacquer Thinner
    Sprue ™

  13. #33
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    285
    I use the homemade lanolin/alcohol mix and have never had a problem with sticky or lube left on the brass, you might be using too much, when you're done you should hardly tell there's lube on it after sizing, try using less paying attention to how the force needed to size changes.
    "People in Arizona carry guns," said Detective David Ramer, a Chandler police spokesman. You better be careful about who you are picking on...

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check