Load DataLee PrecisionReloading EverythingMidSouth Shooters Supply
Titan ReloadingInline FabricationRotoMetals2Wideners
Repackbox
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 48

Thread: Rebuilding an ancient bullet master mk3

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,775

    Rebuilding an ancient bullet master mk3

    So, i got my paws on 3 well used and modified OLD mark3's a few weeks ago, i'm going to re-build them before putting them to work. They were meant to work when de-commissioned a good 5 or so years ago now. They are covered in old grease and rust, there is wear as is to be expected.

    I need to find a website to host pictures of what i have done, but i'll find somewhere.

    The previous owner was a commercial caster, he was doing millions of projectiles per year with these machines, he said his biggest year was 4 or 6 million, i don't remember now, it was a big number all the same.

    He modified them to run better, i'm not 100% sure i will keep all these modifications yet, i want to see the wheel moving and indexing as it should first, then i cancan tinker to dial it in so it's reliable.

    The first hurdle i have is our voltage and frequency. The melting pot is 220/240v, the motor is 115v 60hz, our power in .au is 240v 50hz, i have ordered a single phase in single phase out VFD to give the voltage and frequency. It will also offer over current protection for if things stall, it will shut down and not break shear pins.

    I'll look tomorrow for a site to hose images to post them here. It's going to be a long project, but it will get there eventually.

  2. #2
    ADMIN



    HATCH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lexington, SC
    Posts
    6,700
    You most likely should be able to source compatible replacement motors that are the correct voltage


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master


    AndyC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    834
    Try https://imgur.com - it's easy to make a "thread" of photos.
    My Iraq Pics

    Preferred Travel Agent - 72 Virgins Dating Club

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,775
    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    You most likely should be able to source compatible replacement motors that are the correct voltage


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I'm sure i could have gotten hold of a motor and gear box setup that i could have made do the job in 3 phase so i could use a cheaper VFD to control them, but the new drive has been ordered, i'll just have to see how it performs. I have 2 spare motors, so it kinda makes snese to see if i can use what i have, but i can always change it if required.

    With the current gear ratio, it will only be able to cast a maximum of 2,160 per hour. If i used a different motor/gearbox, i can increase the max RPM to more than the 18 it currently uses.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,775
    Lets see how they go with using them as a host:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	lKZQ3xa.jpg 
Views:	188 
Size:	109.4 KB 
ID:	282708

    In pieces:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	B3ClBT4.jpg 
Views:	180 
Size:	137.1 KB 
ID:	282709

    Just a few moulds:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	H4VHBul.jpg 
Views:	208 
Size:	77.1 KB 
ID:	282710

    Showing a bit of the pour modification he did, chain driven:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	aAN0FFh.jpg 
Views:	176 
Size:	98.3 KB 
ID:	282711

    I still have a long way to go, clean, repair welds and paint then assemble;
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bj8LgPC.jpg   rdnUzpR.jpg  

  6. #6
    ADMIN



    HATCH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lexington, SC
    Posts
    6,700
    You got a bunch of molds
    Can’t wait to see the project(s) progression


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,775
    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    You got a bunch of molds
    Can’t wait to see the project(s) progression


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    There is about 190 of them, they have years of crud on them and will take time to clean. Outside will be with a wire wheel on the bench grinder, sprue face and under side of the sprue plates will be a nylon brush.

    I'm sure a lot will not be used, .9mm/.38 are the most popular here but they were included in the deal. They have worn where the sprue pivots on the mould, he machined this area and brazed it up and machined flat, very good idea and they are dead flat. Will provide piccies on the worst ones once i have cleaned them.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Wyoming
    Posts
    138
    looks like a lot of work ahead of you, take your time and do it right. im sure you will have a nice setup when finished. lead will be a major factor, i hope you have a real good supplyer. best wishes on your endeavor.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,775
    It's not going happen over night, that's for sure. It needs a lot of work, but i'll get there, not in a rush, i have three of them to do , so by the last one, i'll get it right

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,775
    I forgot about the lead side, yeah, i'll need a good supply of that, my stash won't last real long when they are all running.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master flyingmonkey35's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    1,414
    What a find

    Keep us posted

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Ausglock's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NSW North Coast, Australia
    Posts
    3,159
    Tazz. We looked at them back in 2015. They are a lot worst now than back then..
    I don't envy you...
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,775
    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    Tazz. We looked at them back in 2015. They are a lot worst now than back then..
    I don't envy you...
    I think a mad mate looked not long after you did if it was 2015, he wanted 6 or so k each back then, they chatted and looked at his plane and drive on home. They were too modified for him to deal with, i'll need to work out if i want to keep the modifications or not, good in theory but easier to control lead pour times with a timer and solenoid.

    His rifle making gear, wow, just the scale, i'd love to bring it home, but it's beyond me.

    Got notification that the VFD has shipped with DHL

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Pleasant Hope MO
    Posts
    2,225
    The first bullet master mk3 that I bought in 1988 was a bare frame and buckets of parts.
    Once you rebuild one of these machines you will know them very well.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,775
    I'm glad i have a few extras for reference, i'll know it inside and out by the time i'm finished. There are worn parts, some i'll need to think how i'll repair it, but i'll work out a way.

    The main operation of them is quite simple, so it can't be that hard to get going again. I'll need to look at adding knockers to it to help release projectiles more reliably.

  16. #16
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    48
    looks like the molds and the ones in the machine have ballisti-cast sprue plates

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,775
    Quote Originally Posted by m37 View Post
    looks like the molds and the ones in the machine have ballisti-cast sprue plates
    That's what i thought too, but it's what he used and it must have worked well for him. He said the bigger sprue plates worked better than the small ones as the small ones lost their heat too fast, i'm assuming he was talking about the current magma ones that are a lot smaller. I guess i'll find out when i get it back together i guess

  18. #18
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    48
    Quote Originally Posted by Tazza View Post
    That's what i thought too, but it's what he used and it must have worked well for him. He said the bigger sprue plates worked better than the small ones as the small ones lost their heat too fast, i'm assuming he was talking about the current magma ones that are a lot smaller. I guess i'll find out when i get it back together i guess
    with that many figured there was good reason he did it

    once you get to the mold knockers I have one out of a machine so
    here is a pic of a lower cam with the mold knocker cylinder mounting plate (big washer) they weld on
    you will have to mill a notch for the plate and mill off the steps that act as knockers
    the mac solenoid is 110 v on magma it is a 35 Series 35a-aaa-daaa-1ba
    they make different voltages in that model macvalves.com/product/35-series/
    there was a post in the star section with part numbers for the cylinders

    the solenoid needs to be on the cly so it will dump air and retract quickly
    once you get the first machine sorted out they would be the first thing
    I would do on the next rebuild they are a pain in the .. to work on with the
    carriage installed
    mike
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]282849
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails cam.jpg  

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,775
    Thanks for the picture and description, i'll get a pic of my plate in the next few days. Rather than machining off the steps, i may look at making a new one to add knockers so i have something to fall back on if needed.

    I can see that the solenoid should be mounted to the cylinder, the faster the air can escape, the faster it can cycle.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,775
    More parts arrived on Thursday:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	CRmTSDO.jpg 
Views:	40 
Size:	49.5 KB 
ID:	283047

    Sand blasted the frame and legs:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	BOChWFO.jpg 
Views:	43 
Size:	93.8 KB 
ID:	283048

    The poor old home made sand blaster was he usual pain to keep running as moisture from the compressed air wets the sand in the hole as it drops into the air stream, when it gets wet enough, it clogs up. The poor old compressor got a work out.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	hVtR29c.jpg 
Views:	39 
Size:	122.8 KB 
ID:	283049

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check