Boolit sized, lubed/coated etc properly- why am I still getting leading?

[PAndy]

Did anyone suggest fire-lapping the bore?

[oley55]

mattri,

if those pics are from/with a Teslong borescope you need to play with the focus to get clearer pics. There is a tiny lock ring screwed down against the mirror assembly, back it off and then rotate the entire mirror assembly to get in focus. The focus will change based on diameter of the barrel and location. i.e. in perfect focus in the barrel but as the borescope is pushed into the wider area of the throat and chamber it will go out of focus. Also try to avoid twisting the borescope in the barrel, but rather rotate the barrel. the focal point for clarity is pretty narrow and you have adjusted the mirror with the scope laying in the bottom of the barrel, if you twist the bore scope it's distance from the bore changes and things get blurry.

kind of a PIA, but for what they cost...just a matter of patience and practice. If it's not a Teslong all of this is probably useless information.

[mattri]

Thanks foe the tips on the scope, first time using it not a pro by any means. It certainly shows the condition of the bore though, I had obviously suspected it might be rough but was genuinely surprised at what I saw.

Firelapping is an option, have to think about where to go from here.

Thanks again to everyone who replied.

[oley55]

for what it's worth....that scope provides SIGNIFICANT magnification and the images you see can cause alarm when it's not really bad at all. There have been plenty of discussions critical of we dummies running around screaming the sky is falling after seeing our barrels under magnification. I'm no expert on barrels but even with your blurred photos, those button chatter marks don't look horrible.

I do note the near absence of chatter on the lands as opposed to those in the grooves. Makes wonder about the lapping process used. I only wonder because I am mostly ignorant of the processes.

A little fire lapping may help, but I'd wait n see what some of our forum experts have to say before heading there. Fire lapping is a loooong and laborious process. Especially, if you must do it a a public range.

[mattri]

Which is why I included the pictures of the other barrel for comparision. The difference in machining is obvious.

[oley55]

Which is why I included the pictures of the other barrel for comparision. The difference in machining is obvious.

my apologies if my post/s seemed arrogant or belittling. When I said, "we dummies..." I really meant "dummies like me..." from a been there, done that. I will continue to follow your progress with interest.

best regards, Oley

[mattri]

No offense taken, I agree a comparison is needed, hence examining the other barrel to show the striking differences.

[rockydoc]

When you have mentioned coating, I have seen only Hi-Tek mentioned. You don't mention powders or coating method. If you are powder coating commercial boolits You should completely remove the crayon lube before applying the powder.

[Larry Gibson]

A lubed cast bullet rides on a layer of lube. Properly lubed the alloy should not touch the bore, ergo, no leading. I have shot a lot of properly lubed cast bullets through rough, corroded and pitted milsurp barrels with no leading and good accuracy. Many original BP rifle barrels also are rough, corroded and pitted yet they also shoot quite well with no leading. Properly lubed cast bullets also shoot fine through inexpensive commercial barrels with a lot rougher machine marks than yours shows without any leading. It is your lube that is the problem. Before doing anything to the barrel try a better lube.

As to the PC bullets. I have tested quite a few and have found some leave a PC fouling in the bore which can be easily confused with leading. That is even in some very good barrels that do not otherwise foul.

Try a good lube such as Lars 2500+ or his NRA 50/50 lube. Even a light coat of LLA can solve the problem many times.

[tmanbuckhunter]

I've even been known to lube a PC bullet. Why not?